hey pneumatic mag users

[Mescalito]

Ok so i finished my pneumatic mod and i noticed that my Fabco MSV-1 vents air constantly while the trigger is depressed. It will vent as long as the trigger is pulled. What i would like to know is if everyone's MSV-1 operates in this manner or mine is messed up? It seems to be killing my tank efficiency.. only getting about 150-175 shots out of my 47/3000 and i used to get way more then that.

specs: palmer micro rock, fabco msv-1, clippard mpa-3, classic valve

and a short video of it

http://media.putfile.com/Pneumatic-mag-w-classic-vavle-and-no-QEV

[PnueMagger]

If you dig around you can find a small mod to reduce the amount that it vents. But when you buy the valve, it does say at the site that it will vent to air around the stem. Just dont hold down the tigger. I did the modification and mine vents slightly. if your worried about efficiency put an smav-3 in it. Or get a bigger tank.

[RocketMan]

I was wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction of making one of these, I have been out of Paintball for 4 years and am getting back in. I have a clasic mag and this looks like the mod to do. Thanks for your help.

[Mescalito]

just do a search on the topic the information is all here.

[PnueMagger]

I was wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction of making one of these, I have been out of Paintball for 4 years and am getting back in. I have a clasic mag and this looks like the mod to do. Thanks for your help.

Use ab X-valve or a r/t valve. The ULT is much lighter in the newer valves. I've tried it on both though.
It will work with a classic though.

[bentothejam1n]

Ok so i finished my pneumatic mod and i noticed that my Fabco MSV-1 vents air constantly while the trigger is depressed. It will vent as long as the trigger is pulled. What i would like to know is if everyone's MSV-1 operates in this manner or mine is messed up? It seems to be killing my tank efficiency.. only getting about 150-175 shots out of my 47/3000 and i used to get way more then that.

specs: palmer micro rock, fabco msv-1, clippard mpa-3, classic valve

and a short video of it

I'm pretty srue this came up in the 100000 page pnumag thread. I think it said you have to sand like .015 off the piston
if i find it i'll post back

[chettacheez]

The post:
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"Hey guys, I discovered a timing issue with the Fabco MSV-1 valve that may be seriously affecting your efficiency and pull length. Look closely in the exhaust holes on your valve while pushing it without air (you still have your spring in there right?). You will see that the exhaust ports are still about half open when the valve starts to crack. This is not good since you are wasting gas every time you pull the trigger! I got a few of these valves and I discovered this because one of them was exhausting really loud. That was a bad valve, but I found this timing problem while investigating the issue. BTW, on a good valve, there should be almost ZERO blowby when holding your valve open, barely a tiny hiss. If your valve is hissing loudly while holding it open, get a new one.

The exhaust problem can be easily fixed. First you need to take the valve apart. Be careful and don't lose the tiny parts! There is loctite on the plug so it will be stiff, make sure you use the correct size screwdriver or you might Hey guys, I discovered a timing issue with the Fabco MSV-1 valve that may be seriously affecting your efficiency and pull length. Look closely in the exhaust holes on your valve while pushing it without air (you still have your spring in there right?). You will see that the exhaust ports are still about half open when the valve starts to crack. This is not good since you are wasting gas every time you pull the damage something. On the pin valve, the part with oring on it, you need to shave about .010" to .015" off the front tip of that part. A piece of 600 grit sandpaper on a flat surface works well. What you are doing is letting the button rest farther in the valve so it completely blocks the exhaust port. Sand a little off the tip and put it back in the valve to check the ports. Keep doing this until you can see the exhaust port completely blocked when the button is at rest. Now clean everything out really good (I like to use automotive brake cleaner spray then compressed air to dry), reassemble, and seal it up (loctite or tape on rear plug). You can adjust the tension on the spring while doing this. Don't screw the plug in as far to get less tension, or simply take the spring out. The operating pressure should be sufficient to keep the valve closed while gassed up.

After you have it fixed, you should see an increase in shots per fill (since you aren't wasting gas to an open exhaust). It should also lower your operating pressure since there is less blowby while the valve functions. You should also be able to set your trigger up a little shorter since you don't have to close the exhaust in each pull.

When setting your trigger up, make sure you leave a slight gap, around .010" to .015" between the trigger and valve button. What you are doing here is allowing the button room to push out against the trigger and crack the exhaust ports. You dont need much since the QEV is in the circuit. All you want to do is exhaust enough gas to open the QEV in a timely manner. Play with your trigger stops and find the sweet spot.

Now that everything is set up your trigger pull might be about half what it was. Before, it took about .025" to .040" of button movement to close the exhaust and open the valve. Now that the exhaust is already closed, it should only take about .010" to .020" of movement to open the valve enough to fire the ram.

I fiddled with all this on the test bench, now I just need to hack up my intelliframe!"
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[bentothejam1n]

just as i find it, chetta posts :cry:
heh I cant wait to start my pnuemag