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MoeMag
04-21-2006, 02:41 AM
MoeMags tech thread…

Hey all, I have been recently put into a situation where I will be working on Automags on a regular basis. I know a lot about mags, I have been around them for a long time, and know a lot about them but not everything. I am starting this thread so that I can get feedback from all you other Automags folks to help me be a better mag tech, and make a one thread stop for mag issues. Not to mention keep a log of all the guns I work on.

Lets keep the chatter down please, and stick to tech discussion. I am more than happy to shoot the wind with you all in the friendly corner or PM's if you would like.

1st case.
X-valve, level 10, ULT, power feed body, inteliframe, direct macro line from ASA to valve, crossfire HP tank refilled every time it dropped below 2k.
Reported problem: Bolt stick
What I did in order:
Aired up the gun was really able to walk the trigger… never been able to do that, but then the bolt got hung up after ~20 cycles. Oil valve: still stick. Check that field strip screw was not too tight or too loose: tight but no change. Power tube spacer o-ring: lubed no change. Replace bolt spring: new gold, improved. Replace bumper: clear R/t just because. Tried to replace bolt and it was getting hung up on the ULT. Pulled ULT out, and there were so many shims on the thing it was causing it to stick out! Removed all but 4 shims and it was fine. Tuned the Lvl 10 for the heck of it and called it done.

Is it just me, or is the ULT really finicky about needing to be fully pulled and released, otherwise it short strokes and sometimes causes bolt stick. Is there a fix for this or is that just the way it is? I had the ULT when it first came out for a few months but never got used to the “feel” for it and have been running the stock R/T on/off happily ever since.

2nd case
An old RT classic, banjo bolt and all has been in a closet for years and needs to be set straight. Haven’t even opened it up yet to see what I have… other than a bolt that flops about without a bolt spring. That’s tomorrow mornings project… need to read up on classic RT’s.
EDIT:4-24-06
Finally got the r/t classic done.
Installed a lvl 10 tuned it up, replaced the top o-ring in the on/off assembly, put in a new r/t bumper, oiled it and off it went. I really like this gun. I put it over the chrono and got 16bps off with my speed wheel halo B and crossfire HP tank. I think I may ask to purchase that gun I really like it.

MoeMag
05-03-2006, 02:01 AM
3rd case

Okay folks I need some help.
A fella has a tac-one, x-valve, ult, lvl 10 w/ red spring, that he just put a 20bps board hyper frame on. I have never seen a hyper frame mag in real life until I saw this one. He has some lvl 10 break in that needs to be fixed which will be very easy… but it is doing some thing else. It seems like the solenoid is very weak. Obviously it needs the ULT but even then it still seems very weak feeling. Anyway it has some big bounce issues, It seems to like to pretend it is shooting full auto because of so much bounce. But then after shooting crazy fast it just stops. I kept trying to push the bolt back with my finger, because that is what it sounded like it was doing but no luck it just would not fire. Any ideas?

I am not familiar with hyperframes at all so please forgive me if it is something obvious.

EDIT: first thing I did was a new batt

nevtangle
05-03-2006, 02:13 PM
Not really sure what the problem is but maybe the service mode settings need to be adjusted. Check hitechs updated settings on the hyperframe FAQ. It is a good place to start and helped me. You can see the settings that I'm using on the 2nd page.

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=79328

MoeMag
05-04-2006, 12:09 AM
Thanks
:cheers: