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View Full Version : How much would you pay for a "drop in" pneumag



Corbet
05-23-2006, 09:18 PM
I'm thinking about purchasing the parts to create a pneumag, putting it all together (grinding the MPA, applying barbs, ect) and was wonder if there was a market for it.

How much would you pay for this? Assuming the parts alone cost $90.

RoamingStorm
05-23-2006, 09:29 PM
120

warbeak2099
05-23-2006, 10:29 PM
Drop the parts into a frame? Cuz that's still not possible. Mods still need to be done to the frame.

Rudz
05-23-2006, 10:34 PM
how about if a frame was provided..and modified..and returned fully pnuemagged..id say 125 130..unless you provided the frames..then the price would rise dramatically

Cow hunter
05-24-2006, 05:50 AM
for just internals and MAYBE for installation id say 130

REDRT
05-24-2006, 06:16 AM
It must be a nickel/chrome 45 frame for me and must work with a classic rt, but if it was complete ready to install. I'd go as high as normal Emag lowers for something like that for a complete package.

warbeak2099
05-24-2006, 06:56 PM
If we could send you the frame and recieve a bolt on pneuframe back, then I'd pay $150 for the service.

nicad
05-24-2006, 09:11 PM
Would there be a lot of interest in this?? I think you know why I ask..... ;)

warbeak2099
05-24-2006, 09:20 PM
Sure there would. The next best thing to being able to buy a finished frame would be being able to send your current frame in to get "pneu'd".

Chronobreak
05-24-2006, 10:01 PM
Would there be a lot of interest in this?? I think you know why I ask..... ;)


interest depends greatly on cost, availability, performace, etc

if this was similar to the home mods, then i would say unles it was below $150 i wouldnt even consider it

if it was closer to the preoduction/proto versions then i would say under $250 would be pretty reasonable.

also as for interest i think theyr was 220 or so people saying they would buy one for $300 or so for the ptp version.

bolt on meaning i just add an air source and dont change any exisiting aprts as well.

i gave up hope on a pneumag a while back, ive been looking into what eelctro im going to get after i sell my mag.. :eek:

Corbet
05-24-2006, 10:12 PM
The great thing about this mod is its pointless to have a RT/X-valve. A Classic Valve works perfect except it might not recharge fast enough (but that can also be increased by a few mods, including using a RT On/Off, increasing the size of the hole between the on/off and regulator, and even swapping out some o-rings).

I planned to buy a X-valve but now that I started working on this mod its pointless.

All i have to do now is drill the frame (what kind of drill bits would drill through it? Any recommendations) and buy the micro rock.

luke
05-25-2006, 08:30 AM
Would there be a lot of interest in this?? I think you know why I ask..... ;)


Chanting:
YES
YES
YES
YES
:cool:

darcwolf
05-25-2006, 08:37 AM
Would there be a lot of interest in this?? I think you know why I ask..... ;)
Absolutely YES! Especially for a Y-frame or Vert frame. :clap:

PnueMagger
05-25-2006, 09:01 AM
The great thing about this mod is its pointless to have a RT/X-valve. A Classic Valve works perfect except it might not recharge fast enough (but that can also be increased by a few mods, including using a RT On/Off, increasing the size of the hole between the on/off and regulator, and even swapping out some o-rings).

I planned to buy a X-valve but now that I started working on this mod its pointless.

All i have to do now is drill the frame (what kind of drill bits would drill through it? Any recommendations) and buy the micro rock.

Any bit rated for drilling metal. Aluminum is very soft. I would spend the extra $$ and get some tungstun carbide bits. They won't dull out.

Just a note. The frame pressure (and thus trigger force) is dictated by the force required to activate the on off. The use of a ULT greatly lightens the trigger pull and brings it into the walkable category. ULT's can be used on AIR valves, but they are very tempormental. Also, in my experience, an X-valve with ULT is noticably lighter than an AIR valve with ULT. So the frame would have a lighter triggerpull with the x-valve.

Arstron
05-25-2006, 10:02 AM
Would there be a lot of interest in this?? I think you know why I ask..... ;)


/me joins in the chant

Yes! :dance:
Yes! :dance:
Yes! :dance:
Yes! :dance:

MoeMag
05-25-2006, 10:33 AM
Woo Hoo!

$150 for drop in $200 for full service.

Rudz
05-25-2006, 11:14 AM
now u have to do it..u already got the whole site stoked!!!!

tipp-ed off
05-25-2006, 12:08 PM
$150 to convert my Y-grip...hell yeah!

m-a-r-k-7
05-25-2006, 12:46 PM
If we could send you the frame and recieve a bolt on pneuframe back, then I'd pay $150 for the service.

I agree with that. But I'd probably go up to $200.




i gave up hope on a pneumag a while back, ive been looking into what eelctro im going to get after i sell my mag..

Whaaa?!?

AnthonyW
05-30-2006, 11:05 AM
$125.00 or more if I have to.

Battlewear
05-30-2006, 11:45 AM
Count me in on that! I would be willing to get it done.. I would hope that I could send in my current stuff to get it done on.. I honestly cant say a price but I would have to say under $200. more then that and I would just buy Emag lowers..

Testament
05-30-2006, 02:14 PM
I would be very interested in a 'drop-in' pneu-frame, especially if it set up where all the parts are inside the frame, cause I have an idea that I want to work on where you can switch from straight mech to pnuematic to E-grip (sypder type frame) relatively easy. :headbang:

Cow hunter
05-30-2006, 02:16 PM
Absolutely YES! Especially for a Y-frame or Vert frame. :clap:
and what about the Z-grip?

Toll
05-30-2006, 03:13 PM
If it could be done for about 140 to a 90 frame I'd be very, very interested in it.

I'd need to know the stipulations and such, but it'd be something I'd definately look into


Eg : What choices am I forced into with a rail/valve/frame? What is reversable, what isn't, what would be done ...etc.

gibby
05-30-2006, 03:22 PM
One of the problems I see regarding mods like this is maintenance. What happens when the mod goes bad in the user's hands? Would you be willing to give technical support for it? If so, what does that mean to the user? Do they lose their marker for a while until you can get it back to them?

TheTramp
05-31-2006, 01:46 PM
I'd pay $250 if it includded a frame like an Intelliframe or something.

$150 if I had to send in a frame.

Mescalito
06-01-2006, 02:40 AM
The great thing about this mod is its pointless to have a RT/X-valve. A Classic Valve works perfect except it might not recharge fast enough (but that can also be increased by a few mods, including using a RT On/Off, increasing the size of the hole between the on/off and regulator, and even swapping out some o-rings).

I planned to buy a X-valve but now that I started working on this mod its pointless.

All i have to do now is drill the frame (what kind of drill bits would drill through it? Any recommendations) and buy the micro rock.

LOL When you use this mod on a classic valve it isnt worth crap... Pointless to have an x valve? LOL please do your R&D. I started with the pneumatics & an A.I.R. valve, then upgraded to an x-valve. I will tell you this... If you want to be reminded that you are playing with a 100% mech marker every time you pull the trigger, stick with your A.I.R. valve. If you really want to harnes the full potential of this conversion, get an ULT'd x-valve. You will forget its a mechanical marker. There is no substitute.

The funny thing is that you begged me for information, and now you are preaching like you know what you are talking about. You wouldnt have half the information you do now without all those mind numbing emails i had to respond too. Please do not corrupt solid information.

SpecialBlend2786
06-01-2006, 05:30 AM
:ninja:

fire1811
06-01-2006, 06:04 AM
Im tired of the pneumag teases, don't tell us you can do it, show us. Someone just release one.

steiner79
06-01-2006, 06:56 AM
I can mod a trigger frame for a pneumag and add the internals if you would send the frame
for 165 plus shipping mod would roughly take one week once i recive the frame, I would mount the lpr on on the asa pointing toward the barrel. If maintence would be reqired we would have to negotiate a solution.

Corbet
06-01-2006, 09:18 AM
LOL When you use this mod on a classic valve it isnt worth crap... Pointless to have an x valve? LOL please do your R&D. I started with the pneumatics & an A.I.R. valve, then upgraded to an x-valve. I will tell you this... If you want to be reminded that you are playing with a 100% mech marker every time you pull the trigger, stick with your A.I.R. valve. If you really want to harnes the full potential of this conversion, get an ULT'd x-valve. You will forget its a mechanical marker. There is no substitute.

The funny thing is that you begged me for information, and now you are preaching like you know what you are talking about. You wouldnt have half the information you do now without all those mind numbing emails i had to respond too. Please do not corrupt solid information.

If you really want to know, I've been talking to the electrician for over 3 weeks on creating a pneumag. I've been picking his brain asking tons of questions, and my Pneumag is nearly complete, I'm just waiting for my LPR (I think I did a pretty good job personally. Using a milling machine is great for it).

The topic of X-Valve vs. AIR Valve came about. An X-valve is pointless, save initial recharge rate, as is the ULT. the ULT doesn't do anything... the MPA-3 can work just fine without it. Its not like you need the reactive trigger on an X-Valve either.

Mescalito
06-02-2006, 07:35 PM
If you really want to know, I've been talking to the electrician for over 3 weeks on creating a pneumag. I've been picking his brain asking tons of questions, and my Pneumag is nearly complete, I'm just waiting for my LPR (I think I did a pretty good job personally. Using a milling machine is great for it).

The topic of X-Valve vs. AIR Valve came about. An X-valve is pointless, save initial recharge rate, as is the ULT. the ULT doesn't do anything... the MPA-3 can work just fine without it. Its not like you need the reactive trigger on an X-Valve either.


Lol you are a fool. I am not going to say anything other then that. I don't have the time required to fully respond to your ignorance. Education is a job for teachers, a job I am not paid for. I would rather be a paramedic, a job that I AM paid for. Have fun with your 1 pound+ trigger pulls you nub.

Corbet
06-02-2006, 10:48 PM
Lol you are a fool. I am not going to say anything other then that. I don't have the time required to fully respond to your ignorance. Education is a job for teachers, a job I am not paid for. I would rather be a paramedic, a job that I AM paid for. Have fun with your 1 pound+ trigger pulls you nub.

Wow... way to turn into a dickhead for no reason at all. Maybe your the one that doesn't understand a pneumag... the MSV doesn't have a 1 pound+ trigger pull.

Mescalito
06-03-2006, 04:58 AM
If you really want to know, I'm just waiting for my LPR.

In that case you obviously do not have a complete pneumag. If you dont have a LPR you havent shot it a single time. In that case you don't know ****. Please do the world a favor and spend a few nights with catholic priests. :headbang:

Load SM5
06-03-2006, 05:01 PM
Excellent displays of maturity.. :tard: