Bolt stick? need your help

[person1]

I have a mag with a classic valve and level 10. When i gas it up and then pull the trigger the bolt goes foward about 1/4 of the way and then stops and it proceeds to leak out of the barrel. Im using the long spring from the LX kit and 2 shims, i thought i read somewhere that the shims might be causing this? Also does anyone have that LX install video link?

[11 Bravo]

By the long spring - do you mean the silver spring? If so, try the red spring. Most people have trouble with the longest (silver) spring.

[paintman1142]

not a video, but anyway:

Level 10 (http://www.airgun.com/xmag/html/lvl10.html)

[person1]

The person i bought the LX off of didnt include that spring. Well i took both of my shims out and switched it to the shortest spring. I gas it up, fire it, and the bolt goes foward and gets stuck and leaking down the barrel starts. And it wont return, i have to degas it and manually push it back with my finger pretty hard. Could the carrier im using be the problem?

(Makes his way over to the LX problems thread)

[11 Bravo]

^^^^Yes the carrier can be too tight. You will read this a million times in this forum: "use the largest carrier that doesnt leak". :)

[person1]

Well i just dropped a random one it, so that might be it. Which one should i use though, they all look almost exaclty the same, ahhhhhhh!!! Do i just have to judge it by eye and try to find the biggest one?

[back2integrity]

Yeah, possibly too small of a carrier. Use the same o-ring for each carrier as you're testing them out. Also, try the long spring with no shims.

[paintman1142]

very hard to judge by sight, very hard, notice the lines and the dots, each dot indicates .5 and each line indicates 1. So if you have the carrier with two lines and one dot that carrier is the 2.5 and if it is getting stuck then try the 3 carrier (3 lines no dots) you sometimes have to look hard for the dots, but they should be above the line

[person1]

Ya i just took a look at that diagram you posted, thanks a bunch. Im about to test a 2.5. I think i had the smallest one in before when it was sticking bad

[person1]

Ok, with the 2.5, long spring, no shims, i got 1 good cycle out of it. Then it started leaking down the barrel, do i got bigger or smaller now?

[back2integrity]

Ok, with the 2.5, long spring, no shims, i got 1 good cycle out of it. Then it started leaking down the barrel, do i got bigger or smaller now?

smaller, 2.0

[back2integrity]

smaller, 2.0

and make sure the o-ring is oiled, and (again) use the same o-ring on each test.

[paintman1142]

put two shims in too, it changes how far the bolt has to go before venting

[back2integrity]

put two shims in too, it changes how far the bolt has to go before venting

In general, its said that the first time you tune a LVL 10 you shouldn't use shims until you've found the right carrier. That way each time it leaks, you know it is the carrier and not the shims causing it. Then, once you have the right carrier, you experiment with shims.

[person1]

Tried the 2 and same thing, one cycle and severe bolt stick, the bolt it literraly stuck inside my ULE and the valve it out and everything. Could the long spring be causing the bolt stick? Well after i get this bolt out im going to try the 1.5

[back2integrity]

Tried the 2 and same thing, one cycle and severe bolt stick, the bolt it literraly stuck inside my ULE and the valve it out and everything. Could the long spring be causing the bolt stick? Well after i get this bolt out im going to try the 1.5

actually, from what I hear, it could actually be the ULE screwed on too tight. Try losening the front frame screw and the back banjo bolt to just finger tight.

[paintman1142]

actually, from what I hear, it could actually be the ULE screwed on too tight. Try losening the front frame screw and the back banjo bolt to just finger tight.


disregard that if the bolt is sticking forward, i know the problem: the ball detent has the wrong o-ring in it, take the bigest carrier you have and take the o-ring off, dont tear it. Then remove your ball detent and add that o-ring to the exsiting one and screw it back in until it's snug but not to tight, just tight enough so that it wont be to far in. Then in the morning call AGD tech at 1-847-919-3104 and talk to Roman, he will send you the proper o-ring free.

Also, is your ULE blue by any chance?

[back2integrity]

disregard that if the bolt is sticking forward, i know the problem: the ball detent has the wrong o-ring in it, take the bigest carrier you have and take the o-ring off, dont tear it. Then remove your ball detent and add that o-ring to the exsiting one and screw it back in until it's snug but not to tight, just tight enough so that it wont be to far in. Then in the morning call AGD tech at 1-847-919-3104 and talk to Roman, he will send you the proper o-ring free.

Also, is your ULE blue by any chance?

good advice, glad i'm not the only one trying to help or he'd never fix the problem. lol

[person1]

My ULE is red. And i have and CP angel detent, if that matters. So now i've tried the 2.5, 2, 1.5 with no shims, long spring and short spring. Same thing everytime. Gas up, pull the trigger, it fires and bolt gets stuck all the way foward. Could my detent really be holding the bolt foward with such a great force? I literally have to get it down the just the ULE body and pry it out with a screwdriver.

[paintman1142]

Could my detent really be holding the bolt foward with such a great force? I literally have to get it down the just the ULE body and pry it out with a screwdriver.

yes, I had the same exact problem, if you dont believe me just take out the detent and gas it up. I called up AGD and they diagnosed the problem with me, i had to jam a barrel swab down there really really hard to get it to go back, what happened i think is that they threaded it wrong so that it sits 180 degrees around because one side of the detent has a little cut-out for the bolt.

[person1]

yes, I had the same exact problem, if you dont believe me just take out the detent and gas it up. I called up AGD and they diagnosed the problem with me, i had to jam a barrel swab down there really really hard to get it to go back, what happened i think is that they threaded it wrong so that it sits 180 degrees around because one side of the detent has a little cut-out for the bolt.

Wow your right, i jsut took out my detent and the metal on it is all tore up. Im hoping to use this gun on sunday. So do you think i can toss a like 2 little o rings on the detent and would that work? Im gonna try and get the gun to cycle now with no detent in it

[person1]

Wow thanks paintman1142, so i guess thats the problem, just took it out and it cycles just fine. Im having a little problem with "chuffing" thought, Like ill get 2 good cycles, then chuff chuff, 2 good cycles. My current setup is long spring, no shims, 1.5 carrier. Any suggestions?

[back2integrity]

try short spring now

[person1]

Tried the short spring now, fired once then leaked down the barrel.

So what shouuld i try to fix the chuffing with the long spring, or the leaking down the barrel with the short spring? Also with the leak down the barrel, should i try a smaller carrier now? Im at a 1.5 right now, or do i need to add shims?

[person1]

Thanks to everyone, my current setup is working great. Long spring 2 shims, 1.5 carrier. I tossed an old powertube oring on my detent and now it works just fine. I'm having a little problem with chuffing when i try to shoot fast, but thats prolly just from me not shooting a mag in such a long time. But again thanks to everyone who helped me with such quick responses.

[paintman1142]

chuffing probally due to not pulling back the trigger all the way