Replacing just the upper shocker board?

[magmanl337]

I have a fine working solenoid for an 03 shocker, but the LED on the upper board is shot. I have a new upper board, but I'm not sure how I would unsolder the solenoid from the broken upper board and then resolder the new one onto the 'noid. Are there any precautions or techniques I should use to unsolder the broken board from the noid? I can resolder just fine, I'm just not sure how to go about unsoldering the first one. Any help is appreciated.

[68magOwner]

mmm, use desoldering braid?

[minimag03]

Try asking Ydna. I believe his site is www.zdspb.com or something like that. I'm sure he would do it for you for very little if you don't want to do it.

[magmanl337]

mmm, use desoldering braid?

Where can I get some and how would I use it?

[Chooie]

If you've never heard of or used any de-soldering tools before, I question your capability to perform this task. Nevertheless, you can pick up a spool of desoldering braid from RadioShack for about $3.50. Assuming you have a decent (30w-45w if you're soldering heavier wiring, nothing over 30w if you're doing PCB work) soldering iron, here's how it works.

1. Set up the components you wish to desolder, making sure they are supported and nothing will drop free when the solder is removed, causing liquid solder to spray you in the face. That would be bad.

2. Pull out about 3" of braid from the spool. Don't cut it off, just use the spool as a handle.

3. Lay the very end of the braid directly on top of the connection you wish to desolder.

4. Use your iron to heat the braid, applying slight pressure. When you feel the iron settling into the braid and hear squeaking, you know the solder below is melting. You should be able to see the silver coloration being wicked up into the braid. Remove the iron and braid, and check to see if there is still a physical connection. It is normal for both components (in your case, solenoid terminal+wire) to remain tinned. Just make sure they aren't still attatched. If you need to, now use side cutters to clip off the solid, solder filled end of the braid and repeat the process.

It's fairly simple, just be forewarned that PCB's are not heat tolerant. If you let even a 15w iron sit on a trace for too long, you'll seperate it from the board and have a heck of a time getting everything sorted out.

Good luck :)

[Ydna]

You'll have to gain some experience with desoldering before you mess with the Shocker upper board. The solenoid terminals that attach to the board are quite fragile and easy to yank out if you're trying to do it too fast. If these terminals are yanked out too far (or pushed in too far) they will break their connection to the solenoid coil down inside the housing, and you'll need to get a whole new assembly.

Otherwise, it's a pretty easy proceedure if you're experienced. Judt don't heat the board or terminals for too long, since I believe that can also cause issues.

There are multiple causes for some problems like this so it may be some other issue as well, like the wire harness, the small pins inside the wire harness, or something else.

[rkjunior303]

I would send it to YDNA.

[magmanl337]

I got it off guys, I just used a solder gun to heat up the solder and lifted up the board. Then I used a fine metal brush to get the pins nice and clean and resoldered the new board on. The only problem is, is the reason I replaced the old board with the new one was because the LED wasn't working at all. Same thing with the new board :rolleyes: Is there a possibility that 1) I damaged the LED during installation (though I didn't touch it with the solder) or 2) The main board isn't even sending signal to the upper board's LED?

[FallNAngel]

Check the harness for problems (pinched wires, broken wires, etc) and the connectors on the boards to make sure the pins aren't bent.

[Ydna]

The signal to control the LED is the last wire in the wire harness (the "first" wire is marked by a "1" on the circuit board, near the connector). As a result it's common for it to break, either the wire or the pin in the connector.

Check this page for some info, if you haven't seen it already: http://www.zdspb.com/tech/mguide/shockersft/trouble_electronics.html

[magmanl337]

I checked the pin and it was bent. I found that the best tool for this is the tweezers from a swiss army knife. It's small enough to fit into the harness, and strong enough to pull it straight. Now the next thing wrong with this shocker is the bolt guide. The first two rows of threads are bent over the third row, so now I have to straighten those rows or remove them. If I do remove them, will it mess with the restrictions inside the internals? Hopefully not. For those of you interested in what's wrong with this shocker, here's a list:

1) There is no striking can. (One was purchased and is on its way here.)
2) The LED pin on the wiring harness was bent. (Fixed.)
3) Solder a new upper board onto the solenoid. (Done.)
4) The two pins holding the microswitch/lower board are missing. (Some were crafted out of nails and a dremel tool :clap: )

And here's a list of what I will do to make it like new:

1) Buy a silver CCM pro-rise clamping feedneck.
2) Buy a silver New Designz Slik Rolling trigger.
3) Buy clear Dye Sticky 3 45 Frame grips.
4) Anno the gun in a two-tone gold/silver scheme. Here is a picture that I photoshopped below:

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y240/deadlyf00/gold_silver_shocker.jpg

Only thing different between the picture and the Shocker when it's complete is that it has a CP reg, CP Rail + On/Off, and it will have a Freak or Mac Dev Matchstick barrel system. Either barrel will have a gold tip with a silver back. And the CCM Feedneck Clamp will be silver. What do you guys think of this project?

[Ydna]

Good to hear you were able to straighten it out. That means it was just bent at the base, which is good. Sometimes the pins bend in the middle.....in those cases you're sol (have to get the connector replaced).

[magmanl337]

Good to hear you were able to straighten it out. That means it was just bent at the base, which is good. Sometimes the pins bend in the middle.....in those cases you're sol (have to get the connector replaced).

Actually, it was bent in 3 places. Like I said use a pair of tweezers from a Swiss Army Knife, and grab the pin at it's base paralell to the pin, then pull the pin away from the base very slowly, with very little force. It'll pull it back to place and will be straight.