Galactic Z body

[phizz]

Can somebody help. I just bought a Galactic Z body, but originally my classic valve lvl 10 wouldn't fit nor would my retro valve lvl 10. I did notice there was a small what appeared to be aluminuim spacer in the body which I popped out and everything seems to fit now. Anybody know what that spacer was for?

[surfbum]

the z body doesnt fit lvl 10 bolts
you have to use a lvl 7 or modify the the lvl 10 bolt to work with the z body

[FinchMan]

alumminum spacer? is that the dealy that puts the backspin on the ball?


You may want to talk to luke or someone to make your lvl10 work with the zbody.

[PumpPlayer]

You can fix this with a drill press if you have one.


If you will notice, the level 10 bolt has a very small ridge that makes the bolt slightly larger in diameter at the tip than rest of the shaft is. The difference is about .01 inches in diameter, IIRC, it's not much at all. The level 7 bolt is the same diameter along its full length.

The AGD-standard tolerances in the original bodies were a little bit loose when it came to bolt-to-body clearance. This caused just a little bit of gas to leak backwards during firing, dropping the efficiency ever so slightly.

Galacic Systemz tried to solve this by making the body slightly smaller to have less clearance between the bolt.
AGD solved it by making the level 10 bolt a little wider at the tip.


You have to either bore out the body a little farther (tough to do accurately) or you have to turn down the ridge on the tip of the level 10 bolt. The latter is a piece of cake.




Take the level 10 bolt and cluck it up in the drill press, tip down. If your chuck isn't very large, you're only going to be able to grab a small little bit of the stem. This is fine to do, but be careful about overtightening the chuck and when you work, go slowly.

First, use a standard double-cut file. Turn the drill press on and simply hold the file against the bolt tip. If your drill press spins clockwise (right-handed), you want to hold the file against the right side of the bolt with the butt or tang pointing towards you.

Press lightly and move the file vertically up and down in a smooth motion to make sure that the cut remains even. The stainless in the bolt is tough to cut away in this fashion and the process will take some time - this is good, you don't want to cut too fast and risk taking off too much material.

If you have calipers, check the diameter occasionally so you have an idea of where you are in the process.
If not, you may want to remove the bolt periodically and check it against the body. Again, be careful when you put it back into the chuck.

When you turn the nose of the bolt down, take some sandpaper and polish the work. Keep the piece turning in the drill press and simply fold a piece of sandpaper over the back side, pull lightly and move in an even up-and-down motion. I started with about 150-grit and went to 300, then 450 to get a nice smooth polish. You don't need to be that detailed, but it turns out a bolt that looks better.


Make sure there's plenty of clearance and that the bolt will fall right back out again if up tip the body up. You don't want the tolerances to be too close or I can assure you that the bolt will bind and at the most inopportune time.


The Z-bodies are real nice. If you don't already have a large-bore barrel to use with it, may I recommend the LAPCO bigshot. You need a fairly loose bore to get reliable backspin and the LAPCO barrels are top quality. They actually used to market a "Z-barrel" for use specifically with this body that was .697 bore.

Good luck.

[phizz]

Thanks alot for the info everyone!

[pbzmag]

I did notice there was a small what appeared to be aluminuim spacer in the body which I popped out and everything seems to fit now. Anybody know what that spacer was for?

That's the retaining washer for the spring. It's made of steel.



alumminum spacer? is that the dealy that puts the backspin on the ball?


The rubber ramps is what makes the ball backspin. It's the same concept as the airsoft guns. Actually, that's where it came from. The inventor is an avid airsoft player.

[going_home]

The level 10 has a slight lip on the tip.
You can take it of carefully with a belt sander or dremel.
It doesnt effect performance. I have one that I use on my Z body.

[CTW2]

what is the z body you have all been talking about and where can i find one to see i havent heard about them before so any info is welcome thanks

[pbzmag]

what is the z body you have all been talking about and where can i find one to see i havent heard about them before so any info is welcome thanks

The Z-Body is an upgrade that has the same affect as the Flatline. It has an adjustible rubber ramp to change the spin rate whereas the Flatline's adustibility is through the velocity. It's been out of production for quite some time but you may be able to find one on Ebay.

[going_home]

what is the z body you have all been talking about and where can i find one to see i havent heard about them before so any info is welcome thanks

Here are some pics of a Vortex body (same as a Galactic Z body) :

http://s19.photobucket.com/albums/b195/going_home/?action=view&current=944c2b40.jpg

http://s19.photobucket.com/albums/b195/going_home/?action=view&current=f2f7a5d2.jpg

[doc_Zox]

one just sold on ebay for $165

http://cgi.ebay.com/Automag-minimag-RT-AGD-Galactic-Z-body-Paintball-E_W0QQitemZ7246041135QQihZ015QQcategoryZ47245QQssP ageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[back2integrity]

I've got one that i'll do for a little less than $165. It even comes with an extra screw for adjusting the spin, in case you lose the first screw (which some people do).