Its broke, and I'm at square one.

[dreadpirate]

I have a ULE body with a X-bolt and intelliframe. I previously had a ULT on/off installed, but swapped it with a standard RT on/off when no combination of shims would stop the ULT from causing bolt stick.

At the moment, I have the medium spring installed and have successfully chronoed in at 283 +/- 1 fps.
There are two x-bolt shims installed in the x-bolt. I have the largest bolt oring carrier installed that does not cause leakage.

Here are the issues, minor or major, performance or visual, real or imagined:

Using the stock RT on/off, the gun 'chuffs' any time I try to shoot faster than 9 or 10 bps, even when I am making sure my fingers completely leave the trigger and hit the trigger guard before pulling the trigger again. Previously, with the ULT on/off, it would fire off a string, then the bolt would stick forward. Btw, the ULT on/off came from the factory with 7 shims installed with visible movement still between the two halves of the on/off.

When disassembling the X-valve, I find a black oily buildup on the outside of the bolt itself, where the bolt spring is, and also on the inner edge of the carrier o-ring.

Contrary to the installation instructions, the carrier o-rings do not seem to wear in, requiring me to go to a smaller carrier, they seem to swell and become darker in color, causing me to go one size larger.

There is about a 1/16" gap between the x-valve body and the mainbody(I don't think it's a problem, just mentioning everything, just in case.)

The two regulator halves have little white alignment lines that I presume should be matched. They are about 1/16" separated from eachother.

The fit of the concentric orings on the stock RT on/off is so tight, when I remove the on/off, the pin often stays behind in the o-rings.

Anyone who can help me get this thing working right, will earn my eternal gratitude, and that of my gun, since it won't get replaced by an Ion.

[MoeMag]

The fit of the concentric orings on the stock RT on/off is so tight, when I remove the on/off, the pin often stays behind in the o-rings.


That sounds a little funky. Anyone else back me up on that. :confused:

-if so make sure the right o-rings are in there, then lube it up real nice.


OH!
Put alot of oil (5-10 drops) into the ASA and cycle the marker and see if that does anything. I will bet that baby is dry.

[geekwarrior]

i think the pin staying in the oring when you pull the on/off out is pretty common.


are you shooting paint when it chuffs? I was thinking maybe your hopper is is not keeping up and your chuffing on a pinched ball


also, do you have a regulator on there? You gun may be starved of air when you let off a string of shots.

[captian pinky]

realign the valve halfs then dont mess with the velocity becauce that is what causes it to move if you have ult in there should not be orings in the bottom in not ult then it is normal and i would suggest trying this with paint and if it is the same thing then in your regular on/off i would say that it is pin size

but this is all just a guess ;)

[flyingpootang]

Never mind :tard:

[~W.!.C.K.E.D~]

do you have any stars?

[dreadpirate]

i think the pin staying in the oring when you pull the on/off out is pretty common.


are you shooting paint when it chuffs? I was thinking maybe your hopper is is not keeping up and your chuffing on a pinched ball


also, do you have a regulator on there? You gun may be starved of air when you let off a string of shots.


This is when dry firing, also, I have no regulator on there, beyond my preregulated crossfire tank. (~900 psi according to the gauge on my old Spyder Basic)

[dreadpirate]

This is when dry firing, also, I have no regulator on there, beyond my preregulated crossfire tank. (~900 psi according to the gauge on my old Spyder Basic)

Oh, also, with the regular on/off, the chuff occurs on the second shot if I go faster than 9 or so bps. With ULT, the bolt seems to stick forward during a fast string, especially if I short stroke it, unless I put about 5 or 6 drops of oil in the ASA immediately before the game. Then it makes it through most of one game before the problem starts up again.

What exactly, is the motive force which reseats the trigger? Is it gas pressure? Or is the pin pushed back down by the bolt as it returns?

[blinky1041]

Gas pressure on the top of the on/off pin resets the trigger. Make sure you're using oil that's compatible with paintball guns, some oils cause orings to swell which might be a factor in your bolt stick problem and the reason you have to increase carrier sizes after awhile. Chuff problems can also occur if you don't pull the trigger all of the way back each time you shoot the marker. Check the length of your sear rod too just to be sure.

[dreadpirate]

Gas pressure on the top of the on/off pin resets the trigger. Make sure you're using oil that's compatible with paintball guns, some oils cause orings to swell which might be a factor in your bolt stick problem and the reason you have to increase carrier sizes after awhile. Chuff problems can also occur if you don't pull the trigger all of the way back each time you shoot the marker. Check the length of your sear rod too just to be sure.

The oil I'm using is the gold cup autolube which came with the gun, does it have a shelf life? It is a couple years old.

[captian pinky]

i would use ult and tinker with your lvl 10

[blinky1041]

Gold Cup oil should be fine. If you are going to use a ULT and a LVL 10, make sure the bolt is tuned before you try to install the ULT. Trying to tune them at the same time very frustrating and takes alot of time.

[dreadpirate]

Gold Cup oil should be fine. If you are going to use a ULT and a LVL 10, make sure the bolt is tuned before you try to install the ULT. Trying to tune them at the same time very frustrating and takes alot of time.

Ok, without the ULT, I have the bolt tuned, as far as I can tell. I am using the 'stock RT' on/off the local store sold me, since the ULT seems to be no good. The problem still seems to be that the RT on/off is resetting too slowly.

[dreadpirate]

Alright, I oiled the bejeezers out of the RT on/off, and it seems to be working fine, with the exception of when I inadvertently short-stroke the trigger. Now to see if I can get the ULT working right.

[dreadpirate]

Well, I took it out to a chrono, and a new problem arose. Now my speed is fluctuating from 253 fps to 309 fps. There is a very slow leak audible somewhere in the body, can't really localize it, but it does not change pitch when I push the bolt with a swab. I degassed the gun, got more paint, and regassed, and it initially fired off a full auto string when I pressurized it. Fortunately I always wait until I'm on the range, my barrel facing downrange before gassing it up, because it fired a good 10 or so shots. After all that drama, I rechronoed again, and this time it was indicating way too hot, so I backed it off until I got down to about 305 fps, at which point the bolt will no longer go forward when I pull the trigger.
I think this means I need to go back to the smallest spring size, but just so I don't go messing with it needlessly, what sort of behavior does a chrono exhibit when its batteries start to go bad? I only had the one to choose from, and the indoor field I was at is pretty low-budget.

[mobsterboy]

i know you wont like this, but a complete rebuild of your orings would be better than anything else. Basically something in the valve isnt sealing properly, but theres quite a few orings, as that all it is is dump chambers and orings, so you cant really tell whats what and where its coming from. Just the best advice I could give you

[mobsterboy]

i know you wont like this, but a complete rebuild of your orings would be better than anything else. Basically something in the valve isnt sealing properly, but theres quite a few orings, as that all it is is dump chambers and orings, so you cant really tell whats what and where its coming from. Just the best advice I could give you

[athomas]

I'd go with Mobsterboy on this one. It sounds like you may have a bad oring or two somewhere in the valve. Start fresh with genuine AGD orings and you eliminate many potential problems.

Hissing in the body around the frame area is generally an on-off oring that is leaking (a bottom one).

A bad regulator oring would give you velocity problems like you are experiencing. Also, check your ASA to make sure the pin isn't getting pressed too far into the bottle regulator. It can cause flow problems with your air system which could cause chuffing at higher rates of fire.