2 Classic Valve Questions

[piranha3487]

Ok, here they are:
1. What is the recharge rate for a classic valve?
2. Where could i send a classic valve to be tapped out for the ult and how much does it cost?

If anyone has the answers to these questions, please let me know, it will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

[back2integrity]

You don't need the classic valve tapped out for ULT. A ULT will fit, just is hard to get it to work. It can be done, but takes a lot of shims.

[SpitFire1299]

I think its like 12.. correct me if im wrong. Some valves are faster than others, depending on what it has.

All the ULT's ive owned were just "Pop-in and go."

[Asym]

1. What is the recharge rate for a classic valve?

There were a few people that have said with the hyperframe on/off they were able to reach 20bps, in my setup with a ULT and home made electronic ramping frame its set to 16bps but I've never tried to push it faster since I'm not sure if my loader will keep up.
Another thing others have noticed with the classics is input pressure affects your recharge rate, the higher the input the faster it will recharge.


2. Where could i send a classic valve to be tapped out for the ult and how much does it cost?

Like the others said you don't need to have your valve drilled for the ULT. The problem is you might not be able to get enough shims in the ULT and put it back in the body, I had to grind down my pin just a tad. It also reduces the pull weight drasticly and shortstroking is almost impossible to stop.

[back2integrity]

Yeah, I put hyperframe valves in all my classics that i shoot. I have extras if anybody is interested

[piranha3487]

Hey, thanks for all your help guys. So in other words, you guys are saying that with a ult i wont be able to outshoot my classic if im running it on hp? And all i MIGHT need to buy would be some extra shims in order to make it work? (and possibly grind down the pin?). That all sounds easy enough.
Thanks
Brandon

(Note: all ive dealt with are xvalves, and this classic was bought new in 1995)

[Asym]

If you want to stay mechanical you might want to look at picking up a hyperframe or RT on/off. When I put the ULT in my classic it made the trigger pull way too light and I shortstroked everytime I tried to shoot fast, there wasn't enough pressure to reset the trigger and my finger. If you can get your finger off the trigger fast enough to let it fully reset you won't have any problems, the only way I was able to do this was go electronic.

Another issue I had was because of the "break in period". When you first install the ULT the oring seals tightly on the on/off pin, with lots of oil and use it gets better. On a classic with less air pressure to pop the pin out to reset it, if you don't release the trigger fast enough sometimes you will get what seems like bolt stick. I found an easy fix was to use a small quad style oring like those used on the emag valves. The quad orings from the emag won't work because it is a much larger pin, you have to get the right size; I had to order 1k of these and still have them. When I switched to electronic I just went back to the standard oring that comes with the ULT.