Bolt not resetting - have to push it back with finger???

[Pneumagger]

Ok. I'm building another pneumag and here is my issue: the gun will not fire quickly at all.

The gun fires nicely when I shoot slowly. Sometimes it hangs up and I neet to push the bolt back with my finger a little to get the sear to click up. Sometimes it tries to runaway full auto.

When I fire very fast, the bolt ends up sticking in the back position leaking cause the sear hasn't clicked and locked it back. To fix I just bolt back with my finger. When looking into the pneumatic frame, the piston fully cycles hella fast :headbang: but the sear does not reset too quickly sometimes. :confused: Not like it's the valve recharging slowly, but kind like the sear isn't moving freely. The sear also appears to have Extremely short travel for the gun to fire.

I KNOW the frame is not touching the piston before it fires and the sear doen't appear to impact the stop because it is moving so little to make the gun fire. So I don't think the problem is the frame. Especially seeing as how I've built a few others identical to this one.

Now here is the other odd part...It does this with bothe the level 10 and level 7 bolts. And i also tried 2 separate Xvalves.

Specs:
Roller Bearing RT sear
xvalve with ULT
Xvalve with Stock on off
level 7 or Level 10 bolt
Emag ULE'd Rail
Ule body
Chimera frame (MSV-2, MPA-3, QEV, Microrock LPR)

[geekwarrior]

Ok. I'm building another pneumag and here is my issue: the gun will not fire quickly at all.

The gun fires nicely when I shoot slowly. Sometimes it hangs up and I neet to push the bolt back with my finger a little to get the sear to click up. Sometimes it tries to runaway full auto.

When I fire very fast, the bolt ends up sticking in the back position leaking cause the sear hasn't clicked and locked it back. To fix I just bolt back with my finger. When looking in the frame, the gun fires very quickly, but the sear does not reset too quickly sometimes. Not like it's recharging slowly, but kind like the sear isn't moving freely. The sear also appears to have extremely short travel for the gun to fire.

I KNOW the frame is not touching the piston before it fires and the sear doen't appear to impact the stop because it is moving so little to make the gun fire. So I don't think the problem is the frame.

Now here is the odd part...It does this with bothe the level 10 and level 7 bolts. And i also tried 2 separate Xvalves.

Specs:
Roller Bearing RT sear
xvalve with ULT
Xvalve with Stock on off
level 7 or Level 10 bolt
Emag ULE'd Rail
Ule body
Chimera frame


this may be weird, but it may be the chimera frame....I have the same thing now and than

[Pneumagger]

this may be weird, but it may be the chimera frame....I have the same thing now and than

How could it be the cimera frame. Here's some additional info:
The gun appeared to work flawlessly before it had the pneumatics installed. And With the pneumatics installed, and the level 10 leaks in the waiting position.

Neither of these makes any sens to me because when the ser is resting, it is not touching the MPA-3. and the sear stop lets the gun fire and was backed out another turn for clearance. The ONLY thing I changed on the valve was replacing a super worn down (like almost in peices) Clear Bumper with a Blue Classic bumper for more durability.

[geekwarrior]

How could it be the cimera frame. Here's some additional info:
The gun appeared to work flawlessly before it had the pneumatics installed. And With the pneumatics installed, and the level 10 leaks in the waiting position.

Neither of these makes any sens to me because when the ser is resting, it is not touching the MPA-3. and the sear stop lets the gun fire and was backed out another turn for clearance. The ONLY thing I changed on the valve was replacing a super worn down (like almost in peices) Clear Bumper with a Blue Classic bumper for more durability.


does it work when you put the regular sear/setup back in? I dont know how it could be the frame, but I had that problem off and on and switching to my stock frame seemed to fix the problem :confused: maybe it was just fixed when I took it apart and put it back together, doesnt make sense to me either. I was actually having the same problem with my pnueframe setup, never full auto, just the sear not resetting and I would have to hit the back of the gun or push it back. Sometimes if I waited a few sec it would reset itself. I just assumed it was my ult, maybe try playing with that?

[Pneumagger]

you just described the problem nearly perfectly. I can get strings of 8-10 shots off really fast, but then the bolt hangs up. I'll try putting a stock frame and RT-Sear on it tonight. I just really want to get this frame done so I can move on to the others.

[flyingpootang]

The blue bumper is slightly thicker and may be causing the bolt not to catch on the sear especialy on rapid fire. The clear bumpers wear because they rotate. If you super glue them down they last a long time...

[ß?µ£ §mµ®ƒ]

I had a problem like this once but I figured out that I wasnt turning my on off for my tank in enough and it was starving my valve every string of shots

[Pneumagger]

The main problem was the sear. I put my regular rt sear in for the old roller sear and it works amazing. This is the lightest frame I've ever made. About 1 ounce at it's lightest actuation.

[SocialD]

I'm not an expert, but it is my understanding that you want to use the regular on/off assy. with the pneu-frame. This is because the ram is only operated in one direction and requires the force of the on/off to push the ram back.

[Pneumagger]

I'm not an expert, but it is my understanding that you want to use the regular on/off assy. with the pneu-frame. This is because the ram is only operated in one direction and requires the force of the on/off to push the ram back.

The MPA-3 is spring return and returns super fast. It was the sear...the roller bearing sear had a lot of wiggle slop in it and was just being a tard. Plus the xvalve was way out of tune.

[SocialD]

I see. I think that others were removing the spring in the MPA-3 and I assumed that you did the same. Opps! You know what they say when you assume things.....?

Good info for the future. I've been planning on making one of these, but I have yet to get around to buying the parts.

[mag_lover05]

i had the same problem...are you using an xvalve? if you have the heavy spring in for the lvl10, put on the medium one, and check your on/off. in my emag all i needed was a new quad oring