Calling all pneumag modders.

[longi]

Hi all, i now have have the sum total of the parts to start my pneumag mod. Before i even start it i have come across a couple of possible hurdles. Firstly, when sighting the MPA-3, to stop any movement from it whilst firing, after the frame has been milled out to accomdate it, is a good idea to use a resin to mould a seat for it to stop this, or does the rail hold the MPA-3 in place? secondly, as i'm doing a prototype version first using an intelliframe and a chimera frame for the MK2 version. For aesthetic purposes on the Chimera version, because the i will be mounting the LPR in the frame (phishphen version), although the brass fittings do the job on the Phishphen how to version, has anyone found any other parts that are more aesthetically pleasing (no offence Phishphen). I find the brass parts to be big and chunky! Originally i had intended to use a drop forward on both frames, so what you ask, well...If you house the LPR in the frame and mount the bottle on a drop forward you'd have pipes everywhere! Aesthetics go out of the window and you end up with a pipey mess! yeuch! This problem doesn't exist if you mount the LPR on the front and you still use a drop forward, no problem if you use the intelliframe. So for the Chimera version, no drop forward. Basically, i'm looking for ideas to give my Pnuemag an "it looks like it grew there" look as much as possible for both versions, so would it be possible for anybody that has completed, or is in the process of making a pnuemag to upload any piccy's of their take on it good, bad or otherwise so as i or anybody else can get some ideas. Also what other problems can i expect to come across. Any info would be greatly appreciated. The mod itself looks pretty straight forward, but my guess is there will be a few problems before it is completed

[longi]

Also, has anyone tried the Jackhammer LPR as used on the Logic ultimate frame? It's well dinky, i have the palmer micro rock which will eventually be used in the Mk2 Chimera version, but for now it will go on the prototype intelliframe version. It's well big the size of a sausage!! lol!! so the jackhammer is ideal. Also if it's good, where do i get one from?

[Pneumagger]

1) Microrocks are great...but use an orracle tickler or outkast sledgehammer LPR. Etremely small very good. Run a microline throught the grip panels to the 2nd port on the ASA.

2) the MPA-3 is held in place by set srews that run through the sides of the frame and into the mpa-3. The epoxy was only used to seal some parts to be air tight (see pic)

3) the cleanest setup besides in in the frame is putting the lpr out front (see pic)

4) QEV not necessary, save yourself room.

5) There are ways of making a pneumag without ANY external holes drilled, hoses, or Visible LPR. Just a straight up stock looking chimera frame.

here is onethe pneumags i made: LINK (http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=200818)

[longi]

Nice job Pneumagger! :mad: i'm envious!!! Is that 3 set screws on each side of frame to hold the MPA-3 in place or is it just the rear set screw holding it in place? Also looks like you milled out the MPA-3 at the back too, how did you fashion the bit the rear set screw is holding in place on the rear of the MPA-3? How much difference does not having the QEV make to the lightness of the trigger pull? I notice that on the...Is that an MSV-1 or 2 your using? There appears to be a bracket on the Fabco part for the trigger, if thats the MSV-2 did that part come with it? If so does that negate the need of the nail as the relevent part (nail) is still attached?

[longi]

Going with the 2nd port of the vert ASA was exactly what i had in mind. The tickler looks pretty good to me, any idea where i can get a 90 deg Q/R the microline? Some of these parts are a bit like looking for a needle in a haystack!! Sorry to be asking so many questions, i kinda need to know!