In Need of Specific Parts for Hyperframe Mag

[FromTheBack]

Hey guys, I figure this would be the best place to post up some questions like this.
I have a hyperframe and it is in need of the rear safety (circular pin type thing) and an appropriate on off since the frame is a little thicker than traditional ones. Right now I have a ULT on/off in it, where can I get one of the centerflag ones?

[going_home]

Hey guys, I figure this would be the best place to post up some questions like this.
I have a hyperframe and it is in need of the rear safety (circular pin type thing) and an appropriate on off since the frame is a little thicker than traditional ones. Right now I have a ULT on/off in it, where can I get one of the centerflag ones?

If you have a ULT already why would you need a Centerflag on/off ?
You need one or the other to make the hyper mode work.

[FromTheBack]

I've read on here and heard from a tech that you need an On/Off that has a slightly longer pin because of the thicker top of the frame. The ULT doesn't work because it isn't long enough I am pretty sure.

[BigEvil]

I've read on here and heard from a tech that you need an On/Off that has a slightly longer pin because of the thicker top of the frame. The ULT doesn't work because it isn't long enough I am pretty sure.

From what I understand, the ULT is IDEAL for the Hyperframe. Contact 11bravo, he has a few predatored hyperframes. He can give you more info on how to set it up.

[flyingpootang]

It's very easy to do. Use the ULT it's the best bet and better than the CF on/off pin. Start with 2 shims and fire the marker. Add 1 shim at a time until it goes full auto. When that happens remove the last shim added. Also with the ULT tuned, safety removed, & the marker aired up test fire it sevral times. Use a allen key to try & push the sear leg forward. It shouldn't move, which will indicate the sear is fully seated on the bolt.

Next enter service mode by holding the mode/safety button and pressing/releasing the mode set button before the frame turns on. Use the mode set to change the value mode/safety to scroll through the menus

As for the setting I called Dennis at CF yesterday and told me these will work best
IS:05 = amount of voltage to the noid. A lower value will increase battery life, but is less reliable
FD: 02 = debounce
Fn: 05 = dwell amount of time the noid is energized

What I set mine to:
IS: 04
FD: 01
Fn: 05

If your trigger is sticky, remove the pin (right to left) and use 800 grit sand paper if its coated with old paint/muck....

For the missing safety I used a piece of macro line with a 6/32 button screw to fill the gap
on each side. Make shure it not to long because it'll interfer with the safety..,.

[FromTheBack]

wow I appreciate all the advice flying. I didnt know the ULT could be used properly for it.
Thanks a ton, I'll get this thing setup nice soon :-D

[flyingpootang]

Just to let you know a classic type valve with a RT type on/off with a short .712 and a .755 pin will work if you don't have a ULT. It's a cheper route with the same results. I used my classic valve with a RT on/off on my HyperFrame and Emag lowers with the Xmod 1.7 ramp mode and it preformed flawlessly. Pm me or post here if you need details..... :shooting: :shooting:

[SocialD]

I used an autococker pull pin for a safety instead of trying to locate one.

http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=main/8/21412002721.jpg&s=f10

http://f10.putfile.com/thumb/8/21412002721.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=main/8/21412002721.jpg&s=f10)

[FromTheBack]

social: haha thats pretty cool man

flying: I have an Emag valve on it right now, Ill find my shims and start adjusting.

[flyingpootang]

I think you mean ULT. Only ULT's are able to take shims. If you have a standard RT/E/X on/off top they're only tunable be the different size pins. I used the stock Emag pin .712 and it worked perfectly. If your pin mushrooms on the end it's too long. The ULT works best and allows you to go down to: IS 2. For my missing safety I used (2) 6/32 x 1/8 button screws and 2 pieces of cut macro line @ 1/8" long. It fills the holes real good. I super glued the right hand side in, but the left side fit real snug. If you unscrew the left side you can remove it to see if your sear is pushed all the way forward... Also make shure the noid has some play @ 1/8" inbetween where the noid rod contacts the sear leg. You can adjust it by loosing the 4 grub screws located on top of the frame if needed

My new settings since I got my ULT:

IS: 02
FD: 01
Fn: 05

Seems to ramp up a little when you get 12 bps or higher...

[FromTheBack]

It's shooting great. I went by a shop that carries mag stuff and put a single non-ult shim after removing the ULT shim I had in there. It shoots great and now all I need is to find somewhere to flash it to 20bps if that is possible.

Thanks for all the assistance guys, <3 AO.

[SocialD]

I don't believe that the boards can be flashed. Let me know if I'm wrong.

You might try contact Center Flag to see if they still have some boards laying around.