Need LVL7 Refresher course

[BigEvil]

Ok, uh... lvl7 spacers... if the bolt is too tight on the powertube go up or down in size?

[flyingpootang]

Down my evil brother. The spacer compresses the power tube o-ring, which makes the tighter seal...

[BigEvil]

Here's a good one... I keep shooting the powertube orings out the barrel :rofl: DAMN LVL 7!!!

Has to be the wrong orings im using.. but they are the same ones as the on/off. Any ideas?

THe biggest lvl7 spacer I have is 230.

(im waiting for one peice then its getting converted to lvl10 anyhow, but now im pissed at it and I MUST make it work :mad: )

[flyingpootang]

The power tube o-ring is the same size as the on/off. Are your using the L7 power tube top?

[BigEvil]

The power tube o-ring is the same size as the on/off. Are your using the L7 power tube top?

Yes, everything is right, or at least appears right. The oring is the same as the on/off. The only thing I can think of is maybe I have some undersized orings, or a oversized bolt stem? I may put a lvl10 shim in there to see if it helps the spacer hold the oring in place.

[athomas]

If the bolt is not resetting properly or is tight on the bolt stem, then you need to go to a longer spacer. It means the bolt is contacting the powertube oring too soon.

The level 7 spacer works by pushing the powertube oring to the back of the powertube and compressing it. This allows the bolt to be able to move farther back in the powertube before making contact with it. If it is too far back (powertube spacer too long), it will leak due to the gap between the bolt stem and the powertube oring when the bolt is sitting against the sear tip. If it is not back far enough (powertube spacer too short), then the pressure of the oring can prevent the bolt from going back far enough that the sear can properly catch the lip of the bolt. This is level 7 bolt stick.

A level 10 shim can make the powertube spacer longer if needed.

[BigEvil]

If the bolt is not resetting properly or is tight on the bolt stem, then you need to go to a longer spacer. It means the bolt is contacting the powertube oring too soon.

The level 7 spacer works by pushing the powertube oring to the back of the powertube and compressing it. This allows the bolt to be able to move farther back in the powertube before making contact with it. If it is too far back (powertube spacer too long), it will leak due to the gap between the bolt stem and the powertube oring when the bolt is sitting against the sear tip. If it is not back far enough (powertube spacer too short), then the pressure of the oring can prevent the bolt from going back far enough that the sear can properly catch the lip of the bolt. This is level 7 bolt stick.

A level 10 shim can make the powertube spacer longer if needed.

Thanks for the clarification. LVL10 spacer fix coming up.
:cheers:

[hobbesTZ]

Can anything in the powertube make the trigger stiffer than it should be? On a side note each shim will add .010 onto your spacer.

[flyingpootang]

The thicker the spacer the tighter the bolt is against the sear. The whole idea is to use the thinest spacer that dosen't cause a leak...

BigE, You said the o-ring keeps flying out. Did you drill the power tube out?

[BigEvil]

The thicker the spacer the tighter the bolt is against the sear. The whole idea is to use the thinest spacer that dosen't cause a leak...

BigE, You said the o-ring keeps flying out. Did you drill the power tube out?


NO. It's the wierdest damn mag thing ive ever seen. I go the valve used without a bolt or powertube internals, but there was a lvl 7 powertube oring still seated in there which looked like it was there for a while.

I swear I thought I was going crazy. I would put it together... fire 3-4 shots... then PFFTSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS. Take it apart.. and the ORING IS GONE!!. I even poked around inside the valve chamber to see if they were getting pushed back inside somehow, but there was nothing. Then I put it back together again, and fired it down at my toolbox... and viola... out came the oring.

I found the one lvl10 piece I needed that I thought I didnt have to convert it over so I did that last night and it seems fine now.

Here is a pic of the gun so far for your viewing enjoyment.
http://www.bigevilonline.com/modules/coppermine/albums/userpics/10002/normal_IMG_2331.JPG

This is going to make a nice scenario ball gun. Mechanically its just about finished, I may re-do a few things to improve parts i made. Its basically a pneumag stuffed into a sks stock with a custom fabricated trigger set up. Im either going to go with the 'sniper' look, or, maybe try for the wwII russian ppsh41 machine gun look. I still want to test it to make sure everything works like its supposed to and stays where it is supposed to stay. Then I will finish the cosmetics. Gotta see if I can track down an old box magazine and finger guard. :-)

[Pneumagger]

make sure the oring didn't work it's way all the way up the front Bolt guide rod - or back into the dump chamber.

If you're shooting like 400fps, the powertube oring tends to come out - so check the velocity.
Nice gun.