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ddayelmo05
08-22-2006, 07:33 PM
hello all and before i start id like to say thank you for all the work you guys do on this site. you are all knowledgable in your own rights. now my problem. i recieved in a trade a micromag rt it seems to have valve problems but i am not completely sure of them. it does leak down the barrel and will not seal to stop the leak. i have owned mags in the past and thought i was fairly knowledgable to do this but to my astonishment in breakdown of the valve i was unsure where the leak would come from. would this leak be strictly from the orings being worn, or would it be something else with the valve? according to the website drawing, it appears to be complete with the parts in the valve. secondly as with the old classic valve which i am accustomed to, should the rear spring pack be lubed with white lithium grease to ensure lubrication? this was used int the classic and pf as well as the minimag valves prior to the rt's appearance. please advise me what should be done. and thanks

Coralis
08-23-2006, 12:03 AM
Sounds like you need to probably invest in a rebuild kit .... That being said the leak down the barrel is probably either the Orings in the on/off need replacing or the power tube Oring (level 7)/ or the next size smaller carrier needs to be installed (level 10)

flyingpootang
08-23-2006, 02:32 AM
We need to know is it a L7 or L10 bolt to give you the correct advice. Corlais is correct in his fix. The best way to tell is air it up push on the face of the bolt with a squigee and (1) the leaks stops and the sear dosen't reset your on/off needs oiling/inspection. (2) If it dosen't stop leaking but the sear resets the power tube o-ring is bad or, a bigger spacer is needed (L7), or move the the next tighter carrier wihile still using the same o-ring (L10). If your using a L10 use the short gold spring. If you use the others you need to raise the velocity adjuster to get the marker to work properly. Be sure your using a high pressure output tank 850 and up on the RT/

ddayelmo05
08-23-2006, 06:13 PM
thanks i aired it and pressing back on the bolt stops the leak but does not reset the sear. it constantly dumps air when i let go on the bolt. what type of lub should actually be used? i do remember yrs back of not using certain lubes as they could damage the reg on the tank and the orings involved. thanks again guys.

Pneumagger
08-24-2006, 08:50 AM
Goldcup or autolube shoud be used. Any synthetic lubricant should do fine. And the spring pack of a mag has the grease to prevent corrosion/rust...not really for lubrication.

minimag03
08-24-2006, 09:31 AM
There are a acouple thing we need to know before we can help you.

Does it have a Level 7 to Level 10 bolt?

When you pull and hold the trigger, does the leaking stop?

ddayelmo05
08-24-2006, 02:42 PM
no pressure to reset the sear, no pressure on the sear at all. all different pressures from the tank to the reg. were tested. no setting of the sear was found. the sn is 10235. so im not sure but i believe its lvl 7 since bolt is foamie. nothing looks like any lvl 10 ive encountered. but then again you never know.

Coralis
08-24-2006, 07:36 PM
try turning up the velocity sound like its really really low .

ddayelmo05
08-24-2006, 08:33 PM
doesnt matter which way i turn the reg on the gun it doesnt reset the sear...

flyingpootang
08-25-2006, 02:01 AM
Can you tell us what kind of rail, valve, sear, and bolt you have. The L10 dose use foamies. Looking from the back side it has a hollow tube extending behind the bolt body. Did you look at the on/off o-ring?

ddayelmo05
08-25-2006, 09:27 AM
the on/off oring seem to be in good shape, no nicks or not too soft. the rail is micromag which is integrated into the body, it has a standard sear typical with classic mags but with a micromag valve. the power tube looks to be a standard powertube nothing looks to be different than any of the pf/cp mags that i have owned in the past. ill have pics up soon to demonstrate this...

flyingpootang
08-27-2006, 02:25 AM
Ok I figured out your problem :clap: . There is a balance between your carriers and shims. I tried it out on my mag and duplicated the same problem you have. If you add shims to the L10 it affects the o-ring tightness on the carrerier . By adding more shims it compresses the carrier oring more causing bolt stick, leak air and not reset the bolt or sear/trigger. FOR EXAMPLE if you use 2 shims with a 3 line and no dot carrier, but the bolt dosen't reset when doing the squigee test you may have to move to 3 shims with 2 line 1 dot carrier. Sorry for the dumb question about the rail and sear I forgot you have a micromag.

Carriers sizes are 1 line= 1 size, 1 dot= half a size. The smallest to bigest is (1) no dots and no lines, (2) single dot, (3) single line single no dot, (4) single line one dot, (5) double line no dot, etc....

In my mag I'm using 3 shims and a 1 line 1 dot carrier.
Let meknow hoe it turns out...

Coralis
08-27-2006, 11:05 AM
A quick way to tell a level 7 bolt from a level 10 is to take the bolt out and sit in on a flat surface if it sits flat its not a level 10 bolt .... the level 10 bolt has a longer shaft and will not sit flat on a level surface