Anyone know anything about gas ranges?

[Steelrat]

A few months ago, one of the burners on my thermador gas range quit working. Sparked fine, but there was no gas flow. I've been putting off getting it fixed, but now the OTHER burner on that side has stopped working too. Same problem, good spark, no gas flow.

Any ideas?

[MicroMiniMe]

Fire hot?
:mad:

[SCpoloRicker]

You sure there's no gas getting through. That would be a "bad thing"... How old of a range are we talking about?

[Steelrat]

You sure there's no gas getting through. That would be a "bad thing"... How old of a range are we talking about?

5 years old, and it's a high-end range. Neither burner lights, and I don't hear any gas flow at all, nor do I smell any gas. With the other 2 burners, I can hear the flow of the gas, and smell it for a split second before it ignites.

Maybe a block in the gas tube? I thought it was just a bad valve on one burner, but two?

[SCpoloRicker]

Since they are both on the same side, I'd assume its a bad feed somewhere. Maybe a krimped tube?

/then again, you know what happens when I assume ;)

[Steelrat]

Since they are both on the same side, I'd assume its a bad feed somewhere. Maybe a krimped tube?

/then again, you know what happens when I assume ;)

Yeah, but the second one only stopped working a few days ago. Moving blockage? Corrosion?

[BeaverEater]

Ya id say blockage. Something might of fallen in the gas tube and blocked it. Make sure theres also not a leak somewhere that is causing the gas not to reach the burner.

[teufelhunden]

Ya id say blockage. Something might of fallen in the gas tube and blocked it. Make sure theres also not a leak somewhere that is causing the gas not to reach the burner.

He'd smell a leak if it was local enough to only affect two burners.

[bornl33t]

yikees just avoid a waukee boom, we don't need another one of those!

If you figure this out I'd be interested to hear hte solution. I have a range that lost gas flow to the oven, but the broiler works fine? along with all the burners.

[Steelrat]

I'm going to have to end up shelling money out to get it fixed. I don't mind fixing most stuff around the house, but gas appliances make me nervous.

[billybob_81067]

I'm going to have to end up shelling money out to get it fixed. I don't mind fixing most stuff around the house, but gas appliances make me nervous.

Wuss! ;) Just rip it all apart like a rabid monkey, or unhook it from the wall (after your gas supply is shut off of course) and blow through the lines backwards with an air compressor.... Get MEAN with it. :) Worst that can happen is a medium sized explosion. :clap:

[Steelrat]

Wuss! ;) Just rip it all apart like a rabid monkey, or unhook it from the wall (after your gas supply is shut off of course) and blow through the lines backwards with an air compressor.... Get MEAN with it. :) Worst that can happen is a medium sized explosion. :clap:

Unfortunately, it's a built-in, and a wierd style at that. I really want to try blowing it out, and if it were just me in the house, I'd be all over it, but I hate taking a chance with the family. They are less-prone to noticing problems than I am.

[SCpoloRicker]

http://peacenowar.net/newpeace/images/stories/nuke.jpg

Might just want to fork over the dough. ;)

[Ole Unka Phil]

Two things probably one or the other...

The regulator is stuck. Tap on it and some times it will free it up or you can just replace it. Make sure you get the same one. They have different flow ratings. And a big unit like that will need a large flow rating or it will go into safety mode and cut the fuel off and never get it to the proper temp. Get one from the dealer, same type same size to be sure.

"IF" it has a quick connect to the gas source the quick connect is sticking closed. Try removing the line and reconnect it by shoving in hard. A few times even, If you get some flow then at all then thats it. Replace quick connect. If your set up does not use a quick connect then its the regulator. No fuel at all back at the regulator.

[SlartyBartFast]

Spiders?

That's what blocks the pipes on BBQs...

[hvacman250]

I do HVAC/appliance and gas work for a living. If some burners work, you should be able to rule out the regulator to the stove. And the whole incoming line itself.

Kinked hose? I doubt it.

The problem is most likely in the valve itself (the part you turn that say high, med, low, etc.)

Dont be afraid to take it apart and wtroubleshoot back to the gas source. When you put your gas fittings back together, test the joints with soapy water. There is nothing to be worried about.

Need further help, ask or PM me.

[nulam]

I had the same thing happen to me. One top burner wouldn't light and eventually the stove itself stopped working. I paid an appliance repair man $60 to fix the stove because I had 3 working top burners. He told me that the stuff that is used to give natural gas the scent does not completely combust and leaves a residue. All I needed was a little pipe cleaner action. It was well worth it for me because: 1. I don't work with explosives; 2. It cost a lot less than a new stove; 3. Didn't get my hands dirty; 4. Stove was dismantled and reassembled correctly.

[hvacman250]

I had the same thing happen to me. One top burner wouldn't light and eventually the stove itself stopped working. I paid an appliance repair man $60 to fix the stove because I had 3 working top burners. He told me that the stuff that is used to give natural gas the scent does not completely combust and leaves a residue. All I needed was a little pipe cleaner action. It was well worth it for me because: 1. I don't work with explosives; 2. It cost a lot less than a new stove; 3. Didn't get my hands dirty; 4. Stove was dismantled and reassembled correctly.

1. If you can find a LICENSED, INSURED, and BONDED repairman to come work on it for $60 now-a-days, go for it. With gas prices the way there are now, our rate is $95/hr plus a trip charge.

2. I think its hilarious how all you paintballers are scared of gas, but a 4500 PSI tank near your face doesnt creep you out. Now that gives me the willies. :eek:

[Steelrat]

I do HVAC/appliance and gas work for a living. If some burners work, you should be able to rule out the regulator to the stove. And the whole incoming line itself.

Kinked hose? I doubt it.

The problem is most likely in the valve itself (the part you turn that say high, med, low, etc.)

Dont be afraid to take it apart and wtroubleshoot back to the gas source. When you put your gas fittings back together, test the joints with soapy water. There is nothing to be worried about.

Need further help, ask or PM me.

Yeah, I was thinking the valve also. However, I just thought of what the issue might be. The left two burners on the stove (the two that went out) both have a burner function called "XLO" If you put it on that setting, the stove will automatically shut off, and then reignite, the burner for low heat. Could there be some sort of electrical controller for that?

[Steelrat]

Okay, just took it apart, and I think I know what the issue is. The right two burners are conventional, in that the knob turns a spark switch and also turns on the valve. The spark switch is hooked up the spark module, which causes the spark. Now, the LEFT two burners work differently. They both have mechanical valves, which I really can't believe would fail. They are also before the right burners on the gas line, so if there was a block, they'd all be dead.

Now, the left burner knobs go through a potentiometer instead of the spark switch. The potentiometer is wired to a simmer control box. The simmer box is wired to the spark module. There are also two solenoids wired in-line with the gas piping on the left two burners. Now, when the knobs are turned to the XLO function, which cycles the burners on the left side, the simmer control module (I assume) will utilize the solenoids to turn the gas on and off, even when the knobs are still set to "on." They will also coordinate the solenoid function with the gas function. I messed around with the box for a minute, and actually got one of the burners to start working again, but then it promptly stopped.

http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=1162518 Thats the part. I'm probably just going to take a chance and order the damn thing. Travel time alone for the repair guy will run more than that. I managed to fix my central A/C last year, so I feel fairly confident in my abilities ;) Worst case, I have an extra part lying around in case it ever breaks, but I am pretty sure I am right.

Wish me luck.