Viking Animation

[Pneumagger]

Does anyone know if a viking animation exists. I ran a search of AKAowners, but found nothing.
I'm curious how they work.

[buzzboy]

Do not quote me but I think someone said it is a stack tube rammer side by side with a third tube for the bolt and a couple of strange things done to it that make it faster.

[Pneumagger]

All's I know is that it pulls 1400+ shots fom a 45/45.

[11 Bravo]

It works just like low pressure Angels. :)

[neppo1345]

Ok...take an ego

Put the LPR on another tube, remove internal qev's

and you have a viking

[WenULiVeUdiE]

Do not quote me but I think someone said it is a stack tube rammer side by side with a third tube for the bolt and a couple of strange things done to it that make it faster.

Too late...

It is actually not a rammer, such as a Timmy or Ego. Rather, it uses a ram to propel a hammer into the poppet valve. It is very similar to an Impulse, just much more refined. The third tube is, essentially, the largest volumizer you will find in paintball. It stores air between the LPR and solenoid and makes up the entire left tube of a Viking.

The Viking uses no hoses, only milled air passages. There is no manifold as seen on Cyborgs. Very low shock loss rates compared to some other makers. Excellent flow rates.

[neppo1345]

Too late...

It is actually not a rammer, such as a Timmy or Ego. Rather, it uses a ram to propel a hammer into the poppet valve. It is very similar to an Impulse, just much more refined. The third tube is, essentially, the largest volumizer you will find in paintball. It stores air between the LPR and solenoid and makes up the entire left tube of a Viking.

The Viking uses no hoses, only milled air passages. There is no manifold as seen on Cyborgs. Very low shock loss rates compared to some other makers. Excellent flow rates.

My viking doesn't have a hammer.

[warpfeedmod]

I didn't see it listed here (http://www.zdspb.com/tech/misc/animations.html) but they say it's similar to the Angel?

[doc_Zox]

http://www.shortbuspaintball.com/Files/Manuals/04EXandVikmanual.pdf

H. 2004 VIKING™ HAMMER.
Mechanical Hammer adjustment:
There is no mechanical adjustment to the
hammer itself. Simply screw the hammer
cartridge in until it stops against the body.

Hammer maintenance:

The ’04 VIKING™ hammer uses 2 quad-rings
instead of o-rings. This gives the hammer a
smoother action. It is important to keep the
quad-ring on the hammer in good working
order and properly oiled when needed.

[WenULiVeUdiE]

My viking doesn't have a hammer.

A rammer is what you find in an Ego or Timmy or Cyborg. It is comprised of the actuating rod, which directly hits the poppet. It takes up the entire bottom tube. So picture the internal rod of a cocker ram hitting a poppet inside the same ram.

A hammer is connected to a ram and does not occupy the entire tube. So picture a cocker ram with a weight on the end of a rod.

Two similar ways of accomplishing the same task.

[neppo1345]

http://www.shortbuspaintball.com/Files/Manuals/04EXandVikmanual.pdf

H. 2004 VIKING™ HAMMER.
Mechanical Hammer adjustment:
There is no mechanical adjustment to the
hammer itself. Simply screw the hammer
cartridge in until it stops against the body.

Hammer maintenance:

The ’04 VIKING™ hammer uses 2 quad-rings
instead of o-rings. This gives the hammer a
smoother action. It is important to keep the
quad-ring on the hammer in good working
order and properly oiled when needed.

Aren't the hammer and the ram the same piece?

/goes to take apart viking

[Bartman]

Aren't the hammer and the ram the same piece?

/goes to take apart viking


Well the ram and hammer are really the same thing ona viking, the hammer is actualy red lock tited onto the shaft of the ram, and propelled forward to open a pop it valve.

basicaly its a 1 peice cartridge when assembled.

BartMan
Hope it helps, and if I can help any more I will

[jenarelJAM]

I made the mistake of taking my viking apart once...
Messed up the LPR and then needed to spend $65 on a toolkit to fix it...
From now on, I'll leave well enough alone, unless it breaks and I need to fix it. But so far, no maintenence needed whatsoever, and it works flawlessly. So I'm happy :P

[Ydna]

yeah, they're really designed to avoid complete disassembly whenever possible.

[Pneumagger]

what happens when an oring needs replaced? I imagine this needs done once or twice a season.

[rkjunior303]

what happens when an oring needs replaced? I imagine this needs done once or twice a season.


2-3 drops of oil before a day of play and they'll pretty much last forever... nice thing is, they're all the same o-rings, too. U015's..

[Pneumagger]

but orings don't last forever...I can see the noids and parts lasting awhile...but the orings?

isn't U015 a tank oring? I wonder if I could put quadrings in one and eek out even more speed :ninja:

[rkjunior303]

but orings don't last forever...I can see the noids and parts lasting awhile...but the orings?

isn't U015 a tank oring? I wonder if I could put quadrings in one and eek out even more speed :ninja:


They'll already do 30+ BPS.. they don't need to be faster... They're also built to such tight tolerances, that's pretty much all they need.

[Pneumagger]

---> I just don't want to buy one and not be able to fix it in a month when something invariably leaks (LPR, sidewinder, something else) Even mags are considered indestructable and need orings one/two times a year...but I refuse to believe a majority of Vikings can last more than a year without tuning, tinkering, or orings.
This is why I really want to see a diagram or animation.


they don't need to be faster....
shens.

[rkjunior303]

---> I just don't want to buy one and not be able to fix it in a month when something invariably leaks (LPR, sidewinder, something else) Even mags are considered indestructable and need orings one/two times a year...but I refuse to believe a majority of Vikings can last more than a year without tuning, tinkering, or orings.
This is why I really want to see a diagram or animation.


shens.


if it leaks, it's a Urethane 015 o-ring.. the SCM and RAM aren't meant to be taken apart anyways.. THey'll swap the entire cartridge.

[Pneumagger]

if it leaks, it's a Urethane 015 o-ring.. the SCM and RAM aren't meant to be taken apart anyways.. THey'll swap the entire cartridge.

having all the same orings is great for user maintenence...if the user could actually take the gun apart. :tard: I just know that I'm going to end up making my own tools to dissassemble it. :cool:

[rkjunior303]

honestly, they're tanks... if you do need to change one, it won't be common.

[WenULiVeUdiE]

If you do not disassemble any of the cartridges, you should not have to replace any o-rings. I have one frind who has had his Excalibur since 2001. He has never replaced a single o-ring in the marker. He has replaced the Sidewinder Reg core, but that is about it. Remember, most of the o-rings are static, non moving. Other than age, there is nothing that will really degrade them other than the incorrect oil.

You do not need a special tool to disassemble the Viking. All you need is two small Alenn's or a fine tipped needle nose plier. Hell, I have seen people use bent forks to remove the caps and cartridges.

And no, you will not be able to make them faster. Other than an RT Mag at 2500 PSI, nothing has beaten it in speed. The Cyborg is close, if not equal, and a Spyder is a possible candidate, but no proof has even been given.

[Pneumagger]

Other than an RT Mag at 2500 PSI, nothing has beaten it in speed

Pneumag @ 900psi >> http://s53.photobucket.com/albums/g45/jrm33/Black%20Widow/?action=view&current=100_1562.flv

[shorty24]

Pneumag @ 900psi >> http://s53.photobucket.com/albums/g45/jrm33/Black%20Widow/?action=view&current=100_1562.flv

holy...flocking...WOW. :eek:

[650HP]

I've had a few Vikings and Excals and lots of Mags. The worst thing that went wrong was a Viking ram shaft began showing signs of wear and had a stiction problem that would cause very light FSDO. I replaced the orings in the ram but it still didn't seem to shoot as well as when I first received it. Aside from that I've never had any trouble. The local store had sold 30 of them to local players and not one ever failed. Granted most of the players had sold them 2 years down the line. It's too bad the Evil M never saw production though a person can just get a Cyborg if they wanted something similar.

[CoolHand]

what happens when an oring needs replaced? I imagine this needs done once or twice a season.

Nope, you really don't need to replace orings in a Viking. The thing is, that none of the orings in a Vik are dynamic seals, save one in the ram cartridge, one in the LPR, and one in the Sidewinder. Those three rings will wear out eventually, but we're talking many years and hundreds of cases of paint if you take care of them.

AKA LMP started as a high precision machine shop, and THEN started making paintball markers. They machined the parts with finishes that don't eat the orings if properly lubed, and they closed the tolerances up tight enough that you can use light synthetic air tool oil instead of goopy Dow 33 or 55.

This means you basically never have to take the marker apart unless something goes very wrong. The catch is, you need to be very good with them to take them apart and not damage the orings and such. THAT is why you need special tools that cost money, to keep most folks from doing it and causing themselves grief.

No one wants you all to know this, but orings go to hell in spoolers and other PB applications, because the designers are using them to do things they aren't designed to do. Buna rings are not made to seal interrupted dynamic bores (ala spoolers), they're too soft and easy to tear. Also, the finish of the machine work is sorely lacking in a great many markers now adays. Shockers and DM14's wouldn't eat orings like they do if the manufacturers would chamfer the damned holes like they are supposed to, make the glands the right size and shape, and use the correct materials and hardnesses for the orings in the first place.

Instead, they open up tolerances to speed production and decrease cost, they skip operations that improve the longevity of the seals to save costs and speed production, and they don't pay any attention to using a seal like it was designed to be used. AND, on top of that, they profit from selling oring kits to boot, so they're not going to stop doing what they're doing, hell it's a win/win for them.

SP did try to use the correct oring materials on the Shockers, but their fit and finish is still sub-par for a trouble free operation. Don't even get me started on DYE and Proto.

[Pneumagger]

oring gland design really isn't that hard...especially with capital to test with. Do these big companies even have engineers in their design teams? Or are the choices all monetary based?

This is why I like AGD. Great design and engineering, good follow through on concepts and design, and quality raw materials. AKA sounds like it will be a good move for me (even though it will take infinate restraint not to take it apart :cry: )

[CoolHand]

oring gland design really isn't that hard...especially with capital to test with. Do these big companies even have engineers in their design teams? Or are the choices all monetary based?

This is why I like AGD. Great design and engineering, good follow through on concepts and design, and quality raw materials. AKA sounds like it will be a good move for me (even though it will take infinate restraint not to take it apart :cry: )

The glands aren't usually the problem (though in a few cases, they aren't that great), it's mostly the poor preparation of the ports that dynamic rings cross in spoolers. Too sharp and you cut notches into the ring when it cycles. Give it a few thousand cycles and you get a crappy seal and it leaks.

[rkjunior303]

So i think it's safe to say..

AKA FTW!

[Ydna]

I don't mean to butt in but, even though it's generally true that you won't have to replace seals, it's not as if every marker out there is 100% reliable without any exceptions. Sometimes parts just fail, I've had a few issues with any marker type, including aka guns.

You won't have to take the gun apart frequently if any at all, but if you do have to do it someday, then you might just as well replace the whole cartridge instead of messing with the seals. It's a lot more expensive though.

[Bartman]

but orings don't last forever...I can see the noids and parts lasting awhile...but the orings?

isn't U015 a tank oring? I wonder if I could put quadrings in one and eek out even more speed :ninja:


This might have been said already, but the majority of the o-rings in the viking are static, that means they don't ever move, The ones that do move are inside cartriges that are built to not be taken apart( that dosn't mean they can't be) for the most part when I was doing repairs on vikings/excaliburs the only bad orings where user earor(Ie the owner or a tech with out a clue ripped the cartridge apart ) and caused damage to the orings.

It was my job at AKA to actualy tear down and rebuild cartariges, for the most part we would just replace an entire cartridge at once it was less time consumming.

If and when the actual orings in a catridge need replaced there are a tone of people that can 1 walk you through it, or 2 do it for you. I personaly have a bunch of spare parts that I use to fix peoples vikings, that are coverfed in dust now because I haven't had to use them.

Like it has been said, the viking and the excals are built like Tanks , the guy that designed them was a player and wanted a gun that could be pulled ut and jsut played with , and have vary little matenance needed to keep them running, IE, couple drops of oil and a good whip down at the end of play.

Talk to you soon, and catch you in the middle.

Bartman