PDA

View Full Version : Air efficiency problem



longi
09-28-2006, 02:23 PM
I've modified my retro valve to accomodate the ULT (which i now don't use), and i noticed the air efficiency has dropped noticably. Strange thing is, the velocity adjuster is at the same place it was before i modded the valve (i marked the rear of the valve so it was visual gauge for running at 280 fps). For the record the valve still shoots at 280 fps with the adjuster in the same position. I have also made a pneumag conversion which i know will sap efficiency. I haven't got round to reverting back to a standard trigger system as yet to make sure it's not the pneumag conversion. I think i'm getting around 100 shots per 1000 psi or maybe less, it's pretty atrocious. Any ideas anyone?

Lenny
09-28-2006, 03:14 PM
Hmm... I've never heard of this. Is your LPR set as low as possible? Pneumag convresions shouldn't reduce efficiancy that much, maybe like 10 shots per fill.

I'm not totally sure, but if you're using way too much air for the pneumatics, that may be part of it.

Good luck!

Pneumagger
09-28-2006, 04:14 PM
umless your MSV is set up incorrectly... the pneumag setup is really only something like 10-15 shots per fill on my 88/4500. Plus if you moved to a ULT it should help the pneus use less air.

If there's no air leaks anywhere, the way the mag operates shouldn't warrent a drop in efficiency by moving to the ULT. Please note... if you are dryfiring, it will drop your efficiency by nearly half because the dump chamber is fully emptying and must refill completely. This is also the reason I feel DIY pneuframes may short stroke only when dryfiring.

Try with decent paint. Make sure you check the tank PSI after it cools off from the fill... it normally drops like 200 psi (but my shop fils to 4700psi+ to compensate :D ) Try with mech frame

the electrician
09-28-2006, 04:29 PM
I've seen a tank get hot from a fill, and drop from 4500 to 3500 psi, after it cooled.

like they have already stated, that little mpa-3 doesn't consume hardly any air.

if the on/off pin is shutting off the air in the dump chamber, then there is only so much air available to waste.

if you are using a lvl10 with a heavy spring, your operating pressure will be very high and then when you dry fire you will use almost twice the amount of air as when you are shooting paint.
mainly because under normal firing conditions, the heavy spring lvl10 set-up, the residual pressure in the chamber is very high. when you dry fire it will dump most of it.

longi
09-28-2006, 04:53 PM
I was using the short spring, but i have recently moved up to the middle spring. I have never been able to get the longest spring to fire at consistent velocity's. As for the LPR, i found that i was unable to walk the trigger if the input pressure was set too high, so i had to turn it right down almost to the point where it wouldn't fire. I'm reasonably sure that's set right, although i don't have a gauge. Pre-drilled mod there was plenty of efficiency. It just seemed strange that after i modded it, the efficiency dropped off so dramatically (pre pnuemag mod). I did lose around 20% reactivity after i modded the valve, ie, it wouldn't go full auto anymore. There are so few moving parts in the valve that there is no wear. The only other thing i haven't tried is another valve with which to compare it. Hmmm......I'll try letting the bottle cool down first and take it from there. Cheers guys. :)