unwanted reactive firing, please help!

[don miguel]

I have lost days of paintballl play with my retromag because it is reactivly firing (illegally). When I pull the trigger it fires, when I realease the trigger it fires. Both are occuring in complete cycles. I have replaced all the orings in the on/off, vlave, and everything. I have no idea what is going on. here is a picture of my valve if this helps:
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n260/joshbrede/RTvalve001.jpg
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n260/joshbrede/RTvalve002.jpg
Is it just the valve? I meed help. :confused: :confused:

[MANN]

what kind of tank are you using??

[don miguel]

what kind of tank are you using??
Exactly this:
http://4imgs.com/364/x/010519_FULL.jpg
Pure energy 48cu 3000psi.

[Coralis]

is your sear worn or is the on/off pin worn ?

[cyrus-the-virus]

Get a classic sear if you like a heavyer pull

or a ULT kit if you like a lighter pull, both should stop rective shooting.

[MANN]

that valve can probally not accept a ult.

do you have a micrometer?? if so how long is your on/off pin?

[BigEvil]

A longer on/off pin will kill the reactivity. It would help to know what size the one you have in there is though....

[DaFin]

I am having similar issues excpet the marker will "full-auto" if I sweet spot it. I have already changed out the entire on/off assy including the pin. Changing the sear and/or bolt was going to be my next step. The sear that is in the marker looks worn/filed on the nub that would contact the on/off pin.

Could this be the same thing the OP is complaining of? Think changing the sear out will fix it?

Thanks in advance for your help.

[UnderCurrent]

I started a thread a while back with a similar problem. It sounds like it could be different for different people/situations, but all I needed to do was get a longer on/off pin (previous owner had sanded it down) That would probably be the best place to start considering the price of a new pin compared to a ULT kit or new sear.

[geekwarrior]

also check your trigger rod length...if it is too long, it can sometimes cause it to bounce.

/don't read into that sentence too much behemoth

[Geoff Call]

I've found (with x valves) the marker will go full auto if the regulator seat oring is in the regulator seat holder. If you take it out of the holder and place it in the back half of the valve instead, this usually fixed the full auto problems that I had.

-Geoff Call

[athomas]

That is a micromag valve. If you are using a shorter micomag on-off pin in a regular mag body and rail, then it is probably causing your full auto problems.

Based on what you are describing, it sounds like an on-off pin problem.

[DaFin]

I should have clarified the ful auto is in AIR valve (AKA: Classic), the body is an old school PF left metal body. The on/off valve is a Classic O/O just purchased from AGD.

Sorry for the hi jack.

[don miguel]

A longer on/off pin will kill the reactivity. It would help to know what size the one you have in there is though....
where do I get a longer pin? I do notice that when my gun gasses up, the sear hits the trigger and I can still pull the trigger out a little, do you know what I mean? thanks for all the help by the way. :cheers:

[don miguel]

That is a micromag valve. If you are using a shorter micomag on-off pin in a regular mag body and rail, then it is probably causing your full auto problems.

Based on what you are describing, it sounds like an on-off pin problem.
I have all of those things you described, can you buy longer on off pins at airgun.com? sorry for the multiple posts.
I have this stock pin:
http://store.airgun.com/images/product/large/lg_108.jpg
What other pin do I need?

[don miguel]

I've found (with x valves) the marker will go full auto if the regulator seat oring is in the regulator seat holder. If you take it out of the holder and place it in the back half of the valve instead, this usually fixed the full auto problems that I had.

-Geoff Call
WARNING: DO NOT TRY THIS!
I followed your directions, and when I turned the bottomline on/off on a burst of gas flew out the back of the valve and into my face, thank goodness I was wearning goggles while testing or I would not have an eye. Buddy, that is incredibly dangerous and can kill your internals. That oring is obviously important, because a burst of air came out of the back of the regulator that shifted my mask that was tight on my face. Do not mess with that. :nono: It scared the :cuss: :cuss: :cuss: :cuss: out of me!

[Geoff Call]

WARNING: DO NOT TRY THIS!
I followed your directions, and when I turned the bottomline on/off on a burst of gas flew out the back of the valve and into my face, thank goodness I was wearning goggles while testing or I would not have an eye. Buddy, that is incredibly dangerous and can kill your internals. That oring is obviously important, because a burst of air came out of the back of the regulator that shifted my mask that was tight on my face. Do not mess with that. :nono: It scared the :cuss: :cuss: :cuss: :cuss: out of me!

probably didn't listen to my directions properly. best leave the tech work to those experienced enough to work on them. the o-ring was not to be removed but placed alternatively in the back half of the valve. better luck next time.

[KayleAGD]

try to put in the field strip screw with a wrench , a little tightness goes a long way ..

[Geoff Call]

try to put in the field strip screw with a wrench , a little tightness goes a long way ..
agreed

[don miguel]

try to put in the field strip screw with a wrench , a little tightness goes a long way ..
What will that do? does it help, I don't want gas bursting out of my valve in my face again.

[UnderCurrent]

Maybe you should read Geoffs post and put the o-ring back in, I think that might help the air in your face problem.

[athomas]

Make sure all orings are in their proper place.

AGD sells the proper on-off pins. Measure yours for length. It should be .750" long. If it is shorter than that, it can cause high reactivity or full auto. Micromag on-off pins were usually around .675" long.