best electric paintball gun that uses CO2?

[Virem]

My friend wants to start playing paintball, What do you guys think the best new electric paintball gun that uses co2 is?

[warbeak2099]

Well an Ion can technically run on Co2, but I would never put Co2 through an electro-pneumatic no matter what the manufactorer says. It won't take the abuse as well as an electro mechanical. Go for a Pirhana EVO. They're great starter guns. Ions are more intermediate.

[geekwarrior]

maybe the new Spyder? comparable to the Ion, and stupid fast for the price

[Chronobreak]

generic e-spyder..

or if you want the gun to last an e-framed BT or tippmann

[Pneumagger]

The new spyder VS series Markers seem like nice little blowbacks. They should run fine on c02.

Also, an E-cocker with a Stab and Rock should keep liquid out of the noid, Because the CO2 get's double regged by 2 great regs before it hits the noid.

[CoolHand]

Viking

:ninja:

[cyrus-the-virus]

Viking

:ninja:

Are you being a smartass or will vikings really run on CO2?

What ever you do DO NOT put straight CO2 on an ion. You'll blow your noid if you shoot anything abouve 3 BPS.

If you have an antisiphon tube then you'll be fine. My friend has been using his for a long time now with great success.

I would recomend the ion over spyders.... spyders have a bad tendancy to freeze and jam on CO2... and antisiphon helps but not much.

[aqua_scummm]

bko

[Pump Scout]

My Shocker's manual claims you can run antisiphoned CO2 into it.... :tard:

[Armory]

If you plan on running C02 threw any SP marker, I hope you have tones of extra noides on hand...

Spyder, you'll get 12 bps from it and they're cheap and easy, just like my ex...

[phizz]

I heard that the older freestyles run on CO2 as well, not sure about the new ones

[StygShore]

Used to run CO2 through my matrix ( PRe Dye, but DM-3 is the current name most call it )

I ran the normal regulator on it and a side car stabilizer from Palmer, that thing shot unbelieveably well on CO2 for some reason.


Styg

[craltal]

Are you being a smartass or will vikings really run on CO2?




no, he's not

[Shane-O-Mac]

Everyone these days freaks out about co2 and Electros. With a proper set-up, you can use Co2 on ANY Electro, most difficult would be an emag, but that has nothing to do with the solenoid, its because of the valve.

Use a good regulator, (Palmers, AKA, AA Vigilante' and Messiah, Stock WGP, older Max-Flow, pre 2k3 and a few others), and an anti-siphon tank, and go to town. Liquid Co2 cannot stay liquid below 550-600psi. So a gun that runs on less pressure than that, and your fine. If you gun has an LPR, thats even better. Noids dont go bad just because Co2 goes thru it, 2K2 shockers and older used Co2 more than HPA. The older Max-Flows worked very well as a single regulator with Co2. I've used Bushmasters, Angels, Cockers, electro and mech, BKOs, Shockers, Ions, Vikings, Excals and Timmys on Co2. NO PROBLEMS. :D

The issue as I see it is, Too many people that DONT really know about Co2 and its use, tell other undeducated people that they shouldnt. The Blind leading the blind................

AND the kicker is this, if you use a same sized tank for HPA and Co2, you will get more shots off Co2. There is more potential energy in Co2 than HPA. Thats why 2K2 and older shockers used Co2, they were gashogs that needed all the air it could get. Co2 is really an efficent propelant for paintball guns.

As Manike used to say......."Dont believe the hype!!!"

Shane-O

[Pneumagger]

Vikings say "with the proper setup" you can run Co2 on them right in their manual. You can run a majority of high end electro's on C02... the key is multiple Palmer's stabilizers and antisyphon/remote.

[don miguel]

Well an Ion can technically run on Co2, but I would never put Co2 through an electro-pneumatic no matter what the manufactorer says. It won't take the abuse as well as an electro mechanical. Go for a Pirhana EVO. They're great starter guns. Ions are more intermediate.
I tisn't a good idea to run an ion on CO2. Co2 is dirty, it breaks orings. Ask "where am I?" about that. On the other hand, I played witha spyder electra acs 05 with co2, and it worked fine. sweet deal:
http://www.paintball-shop.cz/img/kingman/spyder-electra-acs_w700.jpg

[buzzboy]

If he gets a palmer reg(I reccomend the fatty) I succesfully ran a B2K on unantisiphoned CO2. Also my friend ran an Ion on Unantisiphoned Co2 with no ill effects for a couple months.

[don miguel]

If he gets a palmer reg(I reccomend the fatty) I succesfully ran a B2K on unantisiphoned CO2. Also my friend ran an Ion on Unantisiphoned Co2 with no ill effects for a couple months.
What happened after a "couple months"?

[personman]

What happened after a "couple months"?
He probably got nitro. CO2 wont destroy a gun, its not made out of acid or anything. Its just that if you shoot it at high CPS for long periods of time, the gas doesn't have as much time to expand and it starts to freeze up your gun, sometimes permanently damaging the orings (so basically worst case scenario in an electro pneumatic gun you have to replace a few o rings when the gun starts leaking.)

[don miguel]

He probably got nitro. CO2 wont destroy a gun, its not made out of acid or anything. Its just that if you shoot it at high CPS for long periods of time, the gas doesn't have as much time to expand and it starts to freeze up your gun, sometimes permanently damaging the orings (so basically worst case scenario in an electro pneumatic gun you have to replace a few o rings when the gun starts leaking.)
That's what happens with any gun when you use co2 in it. Exept tippys. Theier orings seem to never wear off. Next time you go to a field with a field rental tippy, find the worst looking one. Look at the back bolt oring that is visible by looking into the chamber where the lever to cock it is. Tell me if it is bad/broken/ or warn down. I want to know. :cheers:

[CoolHand]

I tisn't a good idea to run an ion on CO2. Co2 is dirty, it breaks orings. Ask "where am I?" about that. On the other hand, I played witha spyder electra acs 05 with co2, and it worked fine. sweet deal:

CO2 is not inherently dirty. If you turn a regular bulk tank upside down and there is rust scale inside (which is suspect to begin with, because being filled with pure C02 all the time should keep out all water vapor, but I digress) that scale will flow with the liquid into the tank you are filling.

Solution? Use a siphon tank like you are supposed to, and buy your gas from a reputable supplier.

Do those two things and you will never have dirty CO2 woes.

Please stop telling people that CO2 is dirty and will gut your marker, that's total BS. It's a pure inert gas, it's not corrosive, it's not anything. It just sets there and expands or contracts.

Now that you know the truth, go forth and spread the good word! :dance:

[don miguel]

CO2 is not inherently dirty. If you turn a regular bulk tank upside down and there is rust scale inside (which is suspect to begin with, because being filled with pure C02 all the time should keep out all water vapor, but I digress) that scale will flow with the liquid into the tank you are filling.

Solution? Use a siphon tank like you are supposed to, and buy your gas from a reputable supplier.

Do those two things and you will never have dirty CO2 woes.

Please stop telling people that CO2 is dirty and will gut your marker, that's total BS. It's a pure inert gas, it's not corrosive, it's not anything. It just sets there and expands or contracts.

Now that you know the truth, go forth and spread the good word! :dance:
My motto (besided oldschool=ubercool): My gun breaths wht I breath. I prefer air. I have been told by Boston PB that Co2 is corrosive, and eats at delrin and rubber orings (they were probably lyeing like usual) but still. I do prefer air, it is proven to be better for you gun (people have said) it is consistant, and does not get cold. I have had expierience with a smart parts "anti siphon" tank. It isn't fool proof. When I would shoot strings with my 'electra the tank would become very cold, and liquid co2 was visible in the air at the end of the barell. Mabe the tank was dysfunctional with some defect, but it isn't fool proof. I would still go with compresssed air. It isn't very expensive either. Oh yeah, if Co2 isn't dirty, whay do all high end gun manuals say that co2 is bad for the gun? I know they say you can use anti siphon, but why dosen't anybody?

[Shane-O-Mac]

My motto (besided oldschool=ubercool): My gun breaths wht I breath. I prefer air. I have been told by Boston PB that Co2 is corrosive, and eats at delrin and rubber orings (they were probably lyeing like usual) but still. I do prefer air, it is proven to be better for you gun (people have said) it is consistant, and does not get cold. I have had expierience with a smart parts "anti siphon" tank. It isn't fool proof. When I would shoot strings with my 'electra the tank would become very cold, and liquid co2 was visible in the air at the end of the barell. Mabe the tank was dysfunctional with some defect, but it isn't fool proof. I would still go with compresssed air. It isn't very expensive either. Oh yeah, if Co2 isn't dirty, whay do all high end gun manuals say that co2 is bad for the gun? I know they say you can use anti siphon, but why dosen't anybody?


Ok, DM, heres where you keep getting in trouble with posting. Please reread what Coolhand and I posted. That is the TRUTH, dont always go by what "People" say. Research Co2 yourself, and you'll learn more than you need to know. Instead of trying to argue or contradict what others are saying, ask a question instead of trying to post answers. You are a new player, many shops will tell you lots of things to get you to buy something.

You can choose to go with HPA, thats your option, BUT dont tell some else that Co2 is bad, when it isnt. Most manufacturers say no to Co2 is, if it isnt correctly set-up it can damage things. This way they dont have to warranty the gun if you use Co2. Your problem with an anti-siphon tank doesnt mean anything, you could have had the tank screwed in so the tube was IN the liquid, instead of out of it. MOST guns that use Co2 will produce a cloud at the end of the barrel. Thats normal, and doesnt relate to Co2 being bad or good for your gun. Paintball guns have used Co2 for 36 years or so (first tree marking gun was out around 69-70 IIRC). Also Co2 does NOT damage o-rings. And to answer your last question in the above post, Most people dont use it because of posters like you and others that dont know, tell the other uneducated people that its bad. Most players just use what everyone else does because its easy and more fool proof, but not completely. Go ask a Palmer gun fan what they use, 75% will say Co2 in the proper weather. Ions, were desigend and SOLD to be used with Co2, by Smartparts, so your comment about them are wrong also.

Co2 is perfectly safe when used properly, just like HPA. When used improperly, they can both be bad for your gun.

Shane-O

[Lenny]

Shoebox Shocker... :ninja:

Relatively inexpensive (nowadays), runs good on CO2 (even liquid, the 'noids were built to handle it), and overall really good shooters.

Quite possibly the only SP gun I would highly recomend.

Edit
^^Shano-O, absolutely correct! I'm glad someone said that! :clap:

[warbeak2099]

Co2 is perfectly safe when used properly, just like HPA. When used improperly, they can both be bad for your gun.

Shane-O

How can comp air be bad for your gun? It's in gaseous form all the time.

Btw, go for the EVO Pirhana. Spyders are overpriced for what else is on the market. You can pick up EVO's for $120-130 when those stupid VS Spyders are $250. That's more than an Ion and an Ion is BETTER.

[GT]

The most consistant gun I have ever had was an eclipse shoebox on co2. It consitantly got quads, 295, 295, 295, 295. Awsome gun.


You can run Co2 on anything, no reason it cant be as consistant as hp.

[buzzboy]

What happened after a "couple months"?
Nitro was bought....Gun was sold....gun still works fine a year+ later.

[punkncat]

I would NOT recommend the use of CO2 on an electro to the average paintballer. MOST people don't have the patience/intelligence/knowledge to set up and use the marker properly without damaging it.

CO2 is an acidic gas, that IS a fact. However its NOT corrosive enough to cause problems to any part of a paintball marker. There are many types of acid that have no effect on rubbers and plastics. IIRC some acids were stored in plastic bottles, others in glass w/ rubber stoppers in science....


If you are looking for an inexpensive and durable CO2 rig look into Spyders and Tippys. The tippy valve was made to work properly even on liquid CO2. I would still recommend the use of an anti-siphon, remote, and or an expansion chamber. In extremely cold weather consider using a siphon tank.... :ninja:

[cyrus-the-virus]

How can comp air be bad for your gun? It's in gaseous form all the time.

Btw, go for the EVO Pirhana. Spyders are overpriced for what else is on the market. You can pick up EVO's for $120-130 when those stupid VS Spyders are $250. That's more than an Ion and an Ion is BETTER.

Stock vs. stock I'd say the VS would win.

If you have your tank reg presssure set ot high or your HPR set to high for your gun you can break sela,hoses damge parts, blow your noid all kinds of fun expensive things.

CO2 is in the same boat only it's harder to control seeing as CO2 isent near as stable as Compressed air is.

I could be wrong but that's my 0.02

OK My question is this. If I bought....let's say a Pm6. Would I be able to run CO2 though it if I had an antisiphon tube, and replaced the reg with a palmer fatty?

[craltal]

the only oring issues I can see with CO2 is if you are going without a reg/ AS tube is that the gun will get cold the orings will contract and possibly get brittle depending on the material they are made from.

The biggest problems with CO2 is when it start to get colder out and the ambient temperature doesn't allow as readily a change for the CO2 .

And, cyrus: yes, you could

[CoolHand]

I would NOT recommend the use of CO2 on an electro to the average paintballer. MOST people don't have the patience/intelligence/knowledge to set up and use the marker properly without damaging it.

CO2 is an acidic gas, that IS a fact. However its NOT corrosive enough to cause problems to any part of a paintball marker. There are many types of acid that have no effect on rubbers and plastics. IIRC some acids were stored in plastic bottles, others in glass w/ rubber stoppers in science....


If you are looking for an inexpensive and durable CO2 rig look into Spyders and Tippys. The tippy valve was made to work properly even on liquid CO2. I would still recommend the use of an anti-siphon, remote, and or an expansion chamber. In extremely cold weather consider using a siphon tank.... :ninja:

Sure, it is acidic, but it's so mild that it's basically not. Calling CO2 acidic is like calling a roller skate a car. Sure they've both got four wheels, and they can take you from A to B, but in practice they are two very different things.

If CO2 being a mild acid when dissolved in water is the only thing that someone can come up with to make it an inferior power source, I think they're really reaching for an excuse.

If PB guns were made out of pretzels, it'd be a different story. . . . . . . .

[punkncat]

Sure, it is acidic, but it's so mild that it's basically not. Calling CO2 acidic is like calling a roller skate a car. Sure they've both got four wheels, and they can take you from A to B, but in practice they are two very different things.

If CO2 being a mild acid when dissolved in water is the only thing that someone can come up with to make it an inferior power source, I think they're really reaching for an excuse.

If PB guns were made out of pretzels, it'd be a different story. . . . . . . .


By no means was I saying that its acidity causes problems, nor is what makes it inferior as a power source. I stated clearly that its acidity could cause no problems in a marker. At least not within the usable life of the equipment and o rings. What makes it inferior is its instability and tendency to do rude things to the inside of a marker unless set up correctly.

People can argue all they want. HPA IS SUPERIOR to CO2 in all aspects save efficency and INITIAL cost...ie the tank. Slice it, dice it, it would take one super convincing argument and some facts that I haven't learned in my years using it to sway me. The ONLY time I prefer it is when I am going to play somewhere on limited air or very large fields......supposed efficency of my viking may eliminate that as well.

[electriceel125]

If PB guns were made out of pretzels, it'd be a different story. . . . . . . .


That made my day. :p

Now i must locate some pretzels to eat. :cheers:

[CoolHand]

By no means was I saying that its acidity causes problems, nor is what makes it inferior as a power source. I stated clearly that its acidity could cause no problems in a marker. At least not within the usable life of the equipment and o rings. What makes it inferior is its instability and tendency to do rude things to the inside of a marker unless set up correctly.

People can argue all they want. HPA IS SUPERIOR to CO2 in all aspects save efficency and INITIAL cost...ie the tank. Slice it, dice it, it would take one super convincing argument and some facts that I haven't learned in my years using it to sway me. The ONLY time I prefer it is when I am going to play somewhere on limited air or very large fields......supposed efficency of my viking may eliminate that as well.

I read your post, and I knew you weren't saying that. Notice I did not say "you", I said "someone", just making a general comment that it would make for an exceptionally lame excuse to not use CO2.

I've never said that HPA isn't better than CO2, but that doesn't automatically make CO2 BAD or useless.

I run HPA on nearly all my electros, since we have a compressor now, but all my pumps and my FreeFlow cocker run off of CO2 only.

Mostly I reply to these kinds of threads just because I hate seeing junk information being passed on as gospel (not directed at you, I'm looking at DM with that one :tard: ).

I never said it was way better or anything, I just said it was possible, and doesn't work badly at all.

:cheers:

[punkncat]

I read your post, and I knew you weren't saying that. Notice I did not say "you", I said "someone", just making a general comment that it would make for an exceptionally lame excuse to not use CO2.

I've never said that HPA isn't better than CO2, but that doesn't automatically make CO2 BAD or useless.

I run HPA on nearly all my electros, since we have a compressor now, but all my pumps and my FreeFlow cocker run off of CO2 only.

Mostly I reply to these kinds of threads just because I hate seeing junk information being passed on as gospel (not directed at you, I'm looking at DM with that one :tard: ).

I never said it was way better or anything, I just said it was possible, and doesn't work badly at all.

:cheers:



When you quoted me I figured you were directing the statement my way. CO2 is definatly useful. For those unable to get HPA fills, playing renegade, whatever, it makes this thing possible.

Thanks for the clarification.

[CoolHand]

When you quoted me I figured you were directing the statement my way. CO2 is definatly useful. For those unable to get HPA fills, playing renegade, whatever, it makes this thing possible.

Thanks for the clarification.

Yeah, I can see how one could take it like that.

Sorry for the confusion, it was my fault for not being more clear.

Happens to me a lot, I am afraid.

[athomas]

When used with a Palmers stabilizer, an AIR valvesd emag will work very well on CO2.

[warbeak2099]

When used with a Palmers stabilizer, an AIR valvesd emag will work very well on CO2.

Don't forget anti-siphon!

[craltal]

Don't forget anti-siphon!

if he's running it on gun, then yes, but if he's running remote then he wouldn't want to.

[Shane-O-Mac]

How can comp air be bad for your gun? It's in gaseous form all the time.

Btw, go for the EVO Pirhana. Spyders are overpriced for what else is on the market. You can pick up EVO's for $120-130 when those stupid VS Spyders are $250. That's more than an Ion and an Ion is BETTER.


It's not the HPA gas that can be bad for your gun, its the quality of the HPA for one. I have seen many moreg guns go down due to "Dirty" air than on Co2. Now that alot of fields and shops have compressors, they usally dont maintain them properly. That gets water/dirt and debris into the tank and then into your tank. It causes regulator failures or allowing the regs to spike sending higher than wanted pressures into your gun/regs. Also, screw-in HPA regs are not very consistant. From a full 4500psi to 1000psi, the pressure output can swing as much as 200-300psi higher. Thats the nature of regulators, but good regs dont swing that much. So if that swing of pressure goes to a cheap reg like a stock spyder reg, your gun will see more fluctuations, and possible damage the secondary reg or Blow hoses.

Co2 with a properly set-up AS tube, will maintain a more consistant pressure, unless you put the tank out in the sun. Realize that Co2s pressure output is tempature related. So if you start the day out at 60 degrees, and that afternoon gets to 80 degrees, the output pressure of Co2 will go up. Thats why a good regulator is KEY for using Co2 on electros.

Shane-O

[cyrus-the-virus]

It's not the HPA gas that can be bad for your gun, its the quality of the HPA for one. I have seen many moreg guns go down due to "Dirty" air than on Co2. Now that alot of fields and shops have compressors, they usally dont maintain them properly. That gets water/dirt and debris into the tank and then into your tank. It causes regulator failures or allowing the regs to spike sending higher than wanted pressures into your gun/regs. Also, screw-in HPA regs are not very consistant. From a full 4500psi to 1000psi, the pressure output can swing as much as 200-300psi higher. Thats the nature of regulators, but good regs dont swing that much. So if that swing of pressure goes to a cheap reg like a stock spyder reg, your gun will see more fluctuations, and possible damage the secondary reg or Blow hoses.

Co2 with a properly set-up AS tube, will maintain a more consistant pressure, unless you put the tank out in the sun. Realize that Co2s pressure output is tempature related. So if you start the day out at 60 degrees, and that afternoon gets to 80 degrees, the output pressure of Co2 will go up. Thats why a good regulator is KEY for using Co2 on electros.

Shane-O

AKA palmer reg's,

[Skoad]

CO2 does not 'eat' things. However freezing/unfreezing is usually the culprit.

[Richter]

I would say get a act tippmann 98 with a was board
here it is at paintball gear (http://www.actionvillage.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/eCS/Store/en/-/USD/DisplayProductInformation-Start;sid=O7W6UI3SZdS6BciDc9l6-IcGxFgjg1SYc_0=?ProductID=qBfAqArbEVkAAAEJTsnspNEj )

or get the one with 2 finger trigger (http://www.actionvillage.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/eCS/Store/en/-/USD/DisplayProductInformation-Start;sid=O7W6UI3SZdS6BciDc9l6-IcGxFgjg1SYc_0=?ProductID=VYHAqArbsc8AAAEJ3MvspNEj )

you can shoot this with co2 all day long

[Oregon_pb_]

Being in Pball before HP was even availible, I swing more towards Co2 in multiple situations. At big games i'll run HP due to it being availible at 4500psi, but most the time this HP is fairly dirty and can cause problems in the long run.

At the house or small rec day in the woods, I prefer Co2 for the fact that I can run off my 20lb Co2 tank for a year, solo. Its cheap to get it filled and works great bc my gun is set up for it when I run it. I'm not concerned about my co2 being dirty either, its cleaner than most all air fills.


20Lb Co2 Tank to fill is around $20 - Lasts me 6 months to a year depending on gameplay

1 scuba tank I have costs probably $5 (haven't filled in a year since little use of HP) to fill - Lasts me 2 game days or 1 month







"Accuracy by volume has been, and will remain, the best way to score eliminations" Tom Kaye

oregon_pb_@hotmail.com

[craltal]

Y'all bring up a great point about an HPA fill being only as good as the filler. I've only used air from a scuba station, so I know they maintain their equipment since they are breathing it at depth. When the only use is for paintball, I'm a bit more leery.

Most CO2 will be food grade, meaning it's meant for human consumption so it's going to be clean.

[Virem]

Well, I guess I had my answer after the first reply... because EVO is what I was thinking. Didn't mean to have a co2 vs HPA argument :tard:

I guess the questions should of been best Stock gun to run on Co2

[warbeak2099]

Well, I guess I had my answer after the first reply... because EVO is what I was thinking. Didn't mean to have a co2 vs HPA argument :tard:

I guess the questions should of been best Stock gun to run on Co2

Yea, for a beginner electro, the EVO is perfect. It's cheap, decent performance, eyes, easy to maintain, and parts are widely available. The Spyder VS is probably a great gun too, but it's $250. For $50 less you could have an Ion which is just plain better than any Spyder. Why not get an Ion to begin with? It requires a little more knowledge to take care of than a simple Spyder clone. It is also an electro-pneumatic and as I and others have said, not easy to use with Co2. Oh sure it's possible, but you'd really have to take a lot of precautions and set it up correctly. With an EVO, just screw your tank in and go.

[Pneumagger]

Ryan, If I get the "correct setup" for a viking, can I rip as hard as I want with Co2?

I'm guessing that a palmers bottom female and antisyphon would be sufficient? Plus, with the pressure compensating Sidewinder, the co2 fluctuation wouldn't hurt at all.

[CoolHand]

Ryan, If I get the "correct setup" for a viking, can I rip as hard as I want with Co2?

I'm guessing that a palmers bottom female and antisyphon would be sufficient? Plus, with the pressure compensating Sidewinder, the co2 fluctuation wouldn't hurt at all.

That's what I'm saying.

You'll freeze the tank to your shoulder, but it'll keep going.

Try to do that for 20 mins and it'll freeze the tank solid, but for a speedball game with the amount of paint you can carry, you'll be fine.

[Shane-O-Mac]

Yea, for a beginner electro, the EVO is perfect. It's cheap, decent performance, eyes, easy to maintain, and parts are widely available. The Spyder VS is probably a great gun too, but it's $250. For $50 less you could have an Ion which is just plain better than any Spyder. Why not get an Ion to begin with? It requires a little more knowledge to take care of than a simple Spyder clone. It is also an electro-pneumatic and as I and others have said, not easy to use with Co2. Oh sure it's possible, but you'd really have to take a lot of precautions and set it up correctly. With an EVO, just screw your tank in and go.

I agree to a point. Spyders are good guns for beginners or for easy Co2 use. But an Ion will work fine with an Anti-siphon tank. No other precatuions needed. The 'noid on an Ion is different than the standard, and more tolerant of Co2. I would reccomend the Ion, its cheap and more of a "Mid-level" gun than a spyder. Just have someone that knows what they are doing, show you how to maintain it. There is a few things to watch out for. But if your patient and go slow, they aren't hard to take care of.

Shane-O

[CrimsonGhost]

If you plan on running C02 threw any SP marker, I hope you have tones of extra noides on hand...

Spyder, you'll get 12 bps from it and they're cheap and easy, just like my ex...

Save for the Shoeboxes....Just need to stay up on the lube and orings.

[GT]

Ryan, If I get the "correct setup" for a viking, can I rip as hard as I want with Co2?

I'm guessing that a palmers bottom female and antisyphon would be sufficient? Plus, with the pressure compensating Sidewinder, the co2 fluctuation wouldn't hurt at all.


No problem for viks. Check your owners manual I believe they cover the neccesary parts for a co2 setup.

[electriceel125]

Save for the Shoeboxes....Just need to stay up on the lube and orings.


I never had problems with impulses and C02.

A great thing for c02 is a remote. It is hard to suck liquid vertical like that. And of course a palmers reg.

[Toll]

Just curious would a cocker set up with :

Aka Sidewinder
Palmers female
Decent LPR


Would run fine on an anti-siphoned co2?

At the moment I'm still kicking myself over a very stupid thing I did and as such I now have a project cocker...Halfblocking with ensue but I think that the co2 conversion would be neat ...mainly to see people's faces of horror when you screw a co2 tank into a "good" marker.

The problem is the fact that it's just flat out very expensive to try to get the female stab as well as the AKA reg...Much more expensive infact than a decent tank (talking 175 if they're new)

[Oregon_pb_]

the antisiphon tank alone(with some sort of reg) should work great on a cocker. If you go with palmers then that of course will only add to a already good setup.


Try runnning with the antisiphon first maybe, if the siphon tube is set at the right angle then you won't be getting any liquid. With a sidewinder the input will be set to whatever you run at, this should work without issue.

Mags are more sensitive to liquid Co2 and they can run fine on the above set up.


As far as turning kiddies heads at the paintball field, thats always fun considering most have never associated Co2 with paintball, they've only been playing in the HP era.





Just curious would a cocker set up with :

Aka Sidewinder
Palmers female
Decent LPR


Would run fine on an anti-siphoned co2?

At the moment I'm still kicking myself over a very stupid thing I did and as such I now have a project cocker...Halfblocking with ensue but I think that the co2 conversion would be neat ...mainly to see people's faces of horror when you screw a co2 tank into a "good" marker.

The problem is the fact that it's just flat out very expensive to try to get the female stab as well as the AKA reg...Much more expensive infact than a decent tank (talking 175 if they're new)

[warbeak2099]

Yea double regging it with a Stabilizer and a Sidewinder would be exactly what you need to do for Co2.

[RoLLonBombs]

if i was your friend id go for a mech gun first and with xtra cash buy n2 tank then jsut upgrade gun later after aquiring some skills and have the air system for which ever gun he chooses

i rented for prob 6 months b4 i bought a gun and it was my mag no need for another hell its a sick gun and all i d was put xvalve recently and a dye 45 back in the day when i got the gun like 7 years ago

[Snap Shooter]

....Impulse with old school max flow

[Aslan]

Everyone these days freaks out about co2 and Electros. With a proper set-up, you can use Co2 on ANY Electro, most difficult would be an emag, but that has nothing to do with the solenoid, its because of the valve.

The issue as I see it is, Too many people that DONT really know about Co2 and its use, tell other undeducated people that they shouldnt. The Blind leading the blind................

As Manike used to say......."Dont believe the hype!!!"

Shane-O

Valid points...and correct. But...the bottom line is many people use CO2, DON'T do it right, and have problems. If I had no choice but to use CO2, I'd mount the tank vertically in a harness (on my back) then run a remote to a 6-stage expansion chamber. Would it keep the liquid CO2 out of the gun? Probably yes. Would I waste the money that set-up, or antisyphon, or more expensive stabilizers/regs when you can get a cheap 47/3000 air tank for $75? Probably not. But some people have to...they play in the woods, far from civilization, or just bought a CO2 filling station or something. So, I understand. I have multiple markers...some for air...some for when "air runs out" and I'm playing outback. Use the Mag...air runs out...switch to the Spyder. :headbang:

:cry: Paint runs out...switch to the pump...
:mad: Patience runs out...go home...

[scion]

I have a question kind of on topic with the discussion... What is the point of the old 68 ci fiberwrapped tanks that can hold co2? Obviously they are lighter than a 20 oz while still holding a bit more co2 but that hardly seems worth the price. They cost like a normal hpa tank (around $150) versus a $15 20oz co2 tank...

[Shane-O-Mac]

They were brought out for the old shoebox shockers, which are horrible gas hogs. You could fill a 68ci tank to 26-28 ounces or so. They recomended 24 ounces, but............. :ninja:

And 26 ounces of Co2 was as much gas as a 114/4500 HPA tank.

Oh and back then a 68/3000 was like $300, and a 68/4500 was like $400+

Shane-O

[benzy2]

Ive been around for a while but have never given co2 a chance in a gun past your standard blowback. Ive been able to find enough HPA fills and had enough guns that I could use the HPA tank till it was gone and then switch to a different gun that I didnt fear blowing the noid in. I understand good and well what CO2 can and cant do and what its goods and bads are. I dont need to be taught on that.

What my question has to do with are the regs out there. Obviously the stab has for years been given rave reviews for both HPA and co2 use. First what makes it so different than all the other regs that it takes "Top place"? Second, has anyone done consistancy checks on pressures of CO2 to see what the spikes coming out of it are? I can only listen to so much hype. I want to hear of actual results when it was put under extreme stress. I want to know at the least what its consistancy was over the chrono when using co2 and having some gun max its board out. Does it starve the marker if you use two of them to safe gaurd from liquid co2? Last I know the mag valves like both HPA and a high input pressure, which makes finding a reg to run co2 through first even harder, so what is the best option for running co2 through an rt/x valve setup?

I guess I just have enough access to HPA that I never took the chance of using (with or without a good reg) on markers that ran an air noid. I have been in and out of having HPA available of late and the idea of running off of the cheaper and more available co2 is sounding better and better. I trust a few of the people posting here to not give a hyped up response(which I cant say if I asked on pbn).

[Shane-O-Mac]

Ive been around for a while but have never given co2 a chance in a gun past your standard blowback. Ive been able to find enough HPA fills and had enough guns that I could use the HPA tank till it was gone and then switch to a different gun that I didnt fear blowing the noid in. I understand good and well what CO2 can and cant do and what its goods and bads are. I dont need to be taught on that.

What my question has to do with are the regs out there. Obviously the stab has for years been given rave reviews for both HPA and co2 use. First what makes it so different than all the other regs that it takes "Top place"? Second, has anyone done consistancy checks on pressures of CO2 to see what the spikes coming out of it are? I can only listen to so much hype. I want to hear of actual results when it was put under extreme stress. I want to know at the least what its consistancy was over the chrono when using co2 and having some gun max its board out. Does it starve the marker if you use two of them to safe gaurd from liquid co2? Last I know the mag valves like both HPA and a high input pressure, which makes finding a reg to run co2 through first even harder, so what is the best option for running co2 through an rt/x valve setup?

I guess I just have enough access to HPA that I never took the chance of using (with or without a good reg) on markers that ran an air noid. I have been in and out of having HPA available of late and the idea of running off of the cheaper and more available co2 is sounding better and better. I trust a few of the people posting here to not give a hyped up response(which I cant say if I asked on pbn).


I think the Stab is better because of the o-rings and seat material are more compatible with Co2. I have had excellent results with AA Vigilante's and Messiahs, when you change the piston o-ring to a 16-90, a harder durometer rating. Many people have had good success with AKA Sidewinders. If you use a female Stab (Bottomline style) and a Co2 tank with an anti-siphon tube installed to match the stab, and treat the whole set-up as an HPA tank. Your stock reg on the gun will usally work fine with the above set-up. Now there is much debate about using Co2 on x-valves and Rt's. Basicly you shouldn't do it. next spring I am going to try and do it myself, I have a few ideas of my own.

For optimum Co2 use, you set the female stab at around 550ps (one of the reasons its hard to use for X-mags). Co2 cant stay liquid below 600psi. As for consistancy, I have used a dual stab set-up and gotten +/-3 fps, which is as good as I have gotten from ANY air system.

As for shooting long strings at a high rate of fire, I wouldnt wail on the gun like normal if its an electro. Strings of 6-10 balls works well, with a 5-10 second break in between. A mech gun, shoot away. Although, I can shoot my shoebox at 11bps all day long with the max-flow running Co2. That gun works better with Co2 though. Also realize that the outside temp is a hUGE factor, if its below 50 degrees outside, shoot slower. Also, dont put any cover on a Co2 tank, that just keeps the tank colder, and keeps the liquid from boiling off as quick. If its 80-90 degrees outside, go to town. Also, dont forget that you cannot leave your Co2 tank in the direct sunlight, boom goes the burst disk..... :rofl:

Shane-O

[LudavicoSoldier]

shoebox shocker! :ninja:

[cyrus-the-virus]

While surfing the forum's I came acrost this

http://www.xtremez.com/paintball/product_information.asp?number=RGCA&variation=AA&aitem=&mitem=&back=yes&dept=428#fulldesc

I thought it was an interesting find.

[Shane-O-Mac]

Waste of $44.99 plus shipping....lol

Really those arent any good at all. For that kind of money, get a stock WGP reg, of any stock cocker (2K4 and older, not sure of the newer ones). You can find them used for $15 alot of times. and then having an anti-siphon put on your tank. Although that would only work on guns that dont adjust pressure for velocity. The WGP Ergo regs are good for Co2 and easily adjusted externaly for guns that adjust velocity that way.

Shane-O