Can anyone help my leaking gun?

[Mozzaic79]

OK. My current set-up is an Automag RT Pro with a ULE body ULT, X valve with level 10 bolt. So I've read the threads dealing with leaking down the barrel. I've gone through all the steps associated with setting up the gun. I've tuned the carrier so that there's no leak, and it's the smallest carrier possible without being too tight. There are no shims in the trigger assembly towards the middle of the valve. Right now I have no shims in the level 10 assembly either (although I've tried 2, 3, and even 4(which constantly leaks)). My problem is that I can fire the gun fine. The trigger itself seems touchy however I think that might be expected. Sometimes my gun will double fire, or triple fire, but I think that's just because it's hitting my finger. I can get it to single fire by flicking my finger. Often times though, the bolt will get stuck in the forward position and leak air. I can sometimes push it back and the bolt will reseat, but sometimes it wont, in which case I'll have to depressurize, and gas-up again, then it will reseat. I've cranked my velocity up, I've tried longer springs. Upon inspection my power tube oring is fine, my tip oring is fine? Shims aren't bent. I can't seem to get the thing to just fire correctly. I can't go up in carrier size anymore, because it leaks by and I think by going down it's too tight? Can anyone help me out??? Thanks.

[Mozzaic79]

A little more information. Since I've played around with my gun for some time now, becoming more frustrated as time goes on, I've come to realize something that might be the cause of all this. Maybe it's not the gun at all? While shooting air through my gun, I became aware of the sound the regulator on my air tank was making. It's supposed to have an output pressure of 800psi which I think is what's recommended for a mag. Someone let me know if I'm wrong, because this means I need a new tank. I noticed that the gun wouldn't ever lock up if I shot it a single shot at a time. It would only lock up and leak air if I had just previously rapid fired (2 or 3 shots). I noticed that the sound coming from my regulator was feeding pressure trying to make up for the losses during rapid firing, and then it would lock up, leak air, and occasionally build enough pressure (from the sound) for it to recock (or I'd just have to do it either by using my finger and pushing it back, or re-airing up the gun). If anyone knows, could this be the problem to my leaking bolt. Could it be that my regulator can't keep up with shooting very fast, and therefore loses enough pressure to cause it to fail with the bolt forward, leaking air, and not ever build up the pressure required to cause it to reset (because it's leaking out the barrel)? Correct me if I'm wrong, but once the bolt is forward and the air has escaped (ie shot the paintball), isn't it the spring that would reset the bolt and push it backwards until it locks in place again ready for the next shot? If this is so, why would air have anything to do with the bolt resetting? Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

[flyboy]

A little more information. Since I've played around with my gun for some time now, becoming more frustrated as time goes on, I've come to realize something that might be the cause of all this. Maybe it's not the gun at all? While shooting air through my gun, I became aware of the sound the regulator on my air tank was making. It's supposed to have an output pressure of 800psi which I think is what's recommended for a mag. Someone let me know if I'm wrong, because this means I need a new tank. I noticed that the gun wouldn't ever lock up if I shot it a single shot at a time. It would only lock up and leak air if I had just previously rapid fired (2 or 3 shots). I noticed that the sound coming from my regulator was feeding pressure trying to make up for the losses during rapid firing, and then it would lock up, leak air, and occasionally build enough pressure (from the sound) for it to recock (or I'd just have to do it either by using my finger and pushing it back, or re-airing up the gun). If anyone knows, could this be the problem to my leaking bolt. Could it be that my regulator can't keep up with shooting very fast, and therefore loses enough pressure to cause it to fail with the bolt forward, leaking air, and not ever build up the pressure required to cause it to reset (because it's leaking out the barrel)? Correct me if I'm wrong, but once the bolt is forward and the air has escaped (ie shot the paintball), isn't it the spring that would reset the bolt and push it backwards until it locks in place again ready for the next shot? If this is so, why would air have anything to do with the bolt resetting? Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

I think 800 is the minimum. Many people adjust up to 900+. If you arent feeding enough air, it will not work after a few shots but I've not heard of one leaking because of it. But Im not an expert on them yet so maybe one will chime in.

[ghostdog2019]

Let me get this straight you shoot and sometimes it will not reset.

1. When it leaks does it begin with a chuff such as your level 10 engaging but doesnt reset?
2. How tight are you making the field strip screw?
3. What type of tank is it? And how old is the tank?

1. If it is this problem then it usually means you need to add some shims to your level 10. The shims in the level 10 control the time in which the bolt vents and returns back to be reengaged. If not properly tuned the bolt will hang up and not reset without some force with a finger or sometimes banging the back of the valve.

2. Sometimes you can make the Field Strip Screw to tight which could cause problems with your level 10 engaging. Thus making your gun not shoot correct while rapid firing.

3. You may have a bad reg on your tank and not getting to proper recharge and air into the valve. 800 psi is plenty good enough to run the gun. I have a crossfire 88ci 4500 psi hp tank and have had my emag goldwaved at 16 BPS without any shootdown. My tank is supposed to feed 850 preset. With some hybrid mode I had it shooting 19 BPS and still no shootdown.

Hopefully that helped if not answer the questions above and give me any kind of details you can and I will see what I can do.

-Mike Brothman

PS After reading your second post a little closer it defintely sounds like you could have a tank problem. If you have any other mags maybe a classic mag I would test the tank you should get similar problems if the reg is shot.

[Mozzaic79]

I've got a 68/4500psi / 800psi output Phat Performance Compressed air tank that I'm using. The tank I bought when I bought the gun which was last year. Yes, when I shoot the gun, it begins with a chuf, as if shooting normall, and then leaks just after the shot with the bolt still in the forward position. As far as the field strip screw, I've had it on finger tight, as well as allened on, but never cranked on very tight (although the hotline number here has told me to make it pretty tight with an allen). I've been using the longest spring recently because I could never get my velocity up high enough with the shortest one, however, when I first got the gun, I never had any problems with it shooting down like it's doing now. Nothing has really changed with my setup other than getting more use and aging. I've looked at the expanded diagrams and I'm pretty familiar with air systems, I'm just not getting this? Thanks for your inputs.

Also, is there any way that you can buy replacement/new/different regulators that go on the top of the actual air tank itselt (to replace the factory regulator that already on there)? If so I'll just buy one that can handle the rate of flow that I need.

What tanks and or regulators are in recommendation for this gun? Let me know what works for you. Thanks again.

Aaron

[KerryWeeks]

I've got a 68/4500psi / 800psi output Phat Performance Compressed air tank that I'm using. The tank I bought when I bought the gun which was last year. Yes, when I shoot the gun, it begins with a chuf, as if shooting normall, and then leaks just after the shot with the bolt still in the forward position. As far as the field strip screw, I've had it on finger tight, as well as allened on, but never cranked on very tight (although the hotline number here has told me to make it pretty tight with an allen). I've been using the longest spring recently because I could never get my velocity up high enough with the shortest one, however, when I first got the gun, I never had any problems with it shooting down like it's doing now. Nothing has really changed with my setup other than getting more use and aging. I've looked at the expanded diagrams and I'm pretty familiar with air systems, I'm just not getting this? Thanks for your inputs.

Also, is there any way that you can buy replacement/new/different regulators that go on the top of the actual air tank itselt (to replace the factory regulator that already on there)? If so I'll just buy one that can handle the rate of flow that I need.

What tanks and or regulators are in recommendation for this gun? Let me know what works for you. Thanks again.

Aaron

Aaron that sounds like a problem I just had... or at least the shooting down part. I was told to turn on my tank just enuff to air the gun up ( I went 1 more full turn after air up) IF I opened my tank all the way it would shoot down. If I only open about 1/4 way it shoots fine... I dunno Y its like this but its working for me now. :clap:
:cheers:

[Coralis]

Sometimes you can screw your on/off for your tank in to far and it will throttle down the air flow and cause recharge problems, backing it off a half a turn will usually fix this . Also I have hear of some of the older ule bodies having issues by allowing the ball detents to be screwed in to tight which bind up the bolt in the forward position (ie bolt stick) you can try loosening it and if it is the cause of the problem installing a oring as a spacer.