Remote or HP

[Smoothice]

I have owned my 68 automag classic for about 10 years now. Used when I bought it. Just gotten back into the sport after finishing college. I have always had problems with my gun freezing up. I have been using a 9oz CO2 tank because that is how it was set up when I bought it. Recently I have been reading posts about either using a remote or switching to HP. Because cost (and my wife's nagging) is an issue i am leaning towards a remote.

Is there anything wrong with this decision from a performance, wear and tear on gun, and gas efficiency stand point?

What are the cons of remote to HP?

Any help is appreciated.

[Madmarx]

HPA is the #1 choice, but if cash is an issue then a remote is the best 2nd choice.
HPA or nitrogen are more consistant and less likely to give you o-ring issues.
My advice... DON'T PISS OFF THE WIFE!!!!! You may find yourself without a paintball gun and with blue balls (not paint)!!! :eek:
Get a remote and everyones happy. If you come into some cash then upgrade and sell the remote.

[swalling23589]

I have used a very good expansion chamber and a remote line on myclassic mag. It worked great with both. I have never had any luck with either one alone. I beleave I have them both and they are in very good condition if your interested? I recantly went with a RT PRO valve and LOVE IT!

[Smoothice]

I have used a very good expansion chamber and a remote line on myclassic mag. It worked great with both. I have never had any luck with either one alone. I beleave I have them both and they are in very good condition if your interested? I recantly went with a RT PRO valve and LOVE IT!

Are you still shooting CO2 and no longer need the remote and expansion chamber because you have the RT PRO valve?

I would be interested in your expansion chamber and remote. Price and picture would be great.

[Smoothice]

HPA is the #1 choice, but if cash is an issue then a remote is the best 2nd choice.
HPA or nitrogen are more consistant and less likely to give you o-ring issues.
My advice... DON'T PISS OFF THE WIFE!!!!! You may find yourself without a paintball gun and with blue balls (not paint)!!! :eek:
Get a remote and everyones happy. If you come into some cash then upgrade and sell the remote.

Madmarx...
do you think an expansion chamber is necessary?

[swalling23589]

I am useing HPA now, give me a few seconds and I will go and see if I have the Expansion chamber. I know exactly where the remote is. I payed $45 for the remote. I used it 3 times before I got the HPA. I'll get pic's as well.

[swalling23589]

I found the expansion chanmer. It is in excalant shape, No scratches and, the O-ring looks good. I am horrable at posting pics. I will give it a shot. If they don't show up I can send them to you via e-mail

[swalling23589]

It won't let me upload them give me your E-mail and I can send them to you!

[Smoothice]

It won't let me upload them give me your E-mail and I can send them to you!

smoothice15@hotmail.com

[swalling23589]

You Have Mail!!!!!

[Madmarx]

An expansion chamber certainly won't hurt. With co2 every little bit helps.
Can you use just a remote sure. Without a remote definately use an expansion chamber and an antisiphon tank (just an internal pipe bent upward).

[swalling23589]

I alwayse had issues just useing the remote or just he expansion chamber. With both the only issue I hade was volocity drop off. That problem is cured with my new RT PRO valve. I love that thing. now I'm looking for a differant grip frame and a differand body! I just bought a RT PRO rail.

[Smoothice]

I alwayse had issues just useing the remote or just he expansion chamber. With both the only issue I hade was volocity drop off. That problem is cured with my new RT PRO valve. I love that thing. now I'm looking for a differant grip frame and a differand body! I just bought a RT PRO rail.

Is the velocity drop off due to the inconsistency of CO2 or does that have more to do with Valve?

I guess my question is did you have velocity drop off when you switched to HP but still used old Valve?

[swalling23589]

It is mostly due to the CO2. I used HPA on my classic and it helped a lot, it was a little better than the expansion and the remote but not that much. To eliminate the drop off you would have to go with an RT, RT PRP or X-valxe.

[swalling23589]

The best option in my opinion is Go with the HPA tank. That is more expensive! It depends on how much you play as well. If you go with and HPA I would recomend a carbon tank. I bought a 78cc 3000psi aluminum tank and HATE IT. Its to heavy. I am looking to buy a smaller carbon tank. Also I personaly reccomend going with a 4500 psi tank. I'm not sure but I sure a lot of air with my tank. I think that is due to not having a on off valve though. Loose a lot taking the tank on and off!

I would be happy to sell you the remote and chamber if your interested. It will be cheaper than buying a HPA but in the long run the tank would be put to more use if your planning on playing a lot!

[Smoothice]

Thanks swalling23589 and Madmarx. Your input has been great. Of course now I want HP even more. We will just have to see what the holidays may bring.

Thanks again.

[Zneaky]

There is one more thing to consider, if you go HPA now, you won't have to make that change when you upgrade to an x-valve. The newer valves only take HPA and will not run on C02. If you have any intention of really playing paintball, you will want to upgrade in the next year or so.

Also, don't mess around with these $80 aluminum 3000 psi tanks. If you are gonna spend $80, just spend the $150-$200 and get the right tank from the get-go. Get a good carbon fiber tank (lighter) and 4500 psi (holds more air).

I went with a cheap aluminum 48ci 3000psi tank $70, then got this huge old SmartParts Carbon fiber 68ci 3000psi the regulator was so huge and heavy it totally sucked $90 more. Then, I bought a nice tank with a crappy regulator Carbon Fiber 68ci 4500psi $90. Then, finally sent it to crossfire $70 more and had them hydro it and do a regulator swap. Now it is preset at 925psi output (custom) and is awesome. I could have saved big money if I would have just bought the Goods to start off with instead of upgrading and tring to find a deal.

Tell your wife you want to make a $200 upgrade to your gun, and you will set aside $50 a month for 4 months. Then in February you buy the one that will last you 10 more years.

Z

[Lenny]

There is one more thing to consider, if you go HPA now, you won't have to make that change when you upgrade to an x-valve...
Ha ha. You make it sound like you know he'll be upgrading to the RT valve. Ha! Ha. Ha... Ha?

:ninja:

RT valve is the best thing next to Mountain Dew. Really. RT's and Classics shoot totally different. I love my RT.

Oh, and welcome to AO!

[Smoothice]

There is one more thing to consider, if you go HPA now, you won't have to make that change when you upgrade to an x-valve. The newer valves only take HPA and will not run on C02. If you have any intention of really playing paintball, you will want to upgrade in the next year or so.

Also, don't mess around with these $80 aluminum 3000 psi tanks. If you are gonna spend $80, just spend the $150-$200 and get the right tank from the get-go. Get a good carbon fiber tank (lighter) and 4500 psi (holds more air).

I went with a cheap aluminum 48ci 3000psi tank $70, then got this huge old SmartParts Carbon fiber 68ci 3000psi the regulator was so huge and heavy it totally sucked $90 more. Then, I bought a nice tank with a crappy regulator Carbon Fiber 68ci 4500psi $90. Then, finally sent it to crossfire $70 more and had them hydro it and do a regulator swap. Now it is preset at 925psi output (custom) and is awesome. I could have saved big money if I would have just bought the Goods to start off with instead of upgrading and tring to find a deal.

Tell your wife you want to make a $200 upgrade to your gun, and you will set aside $50 a month for 4 months. Then in February you buy the one that will last you 10 more years.

Z

What would be a good carbon fiber tank to get? Size?

I have heard that 4500 psi is the way to go. I am confused about the the other number (48ci, 68ci, etc) What does that one do for you?

Also you mentioned a regulator. Does the carbon fiber tank come with a regulator or is that additional?

Thanks.

[Smoothice]

Ha ha. You make it sound like you know he'll be upgrading to the RT valve. Ha! Ha. Ha... Ha?

:ninja:

RT valve is the best thing next to Mountain Dew. Really. RT's and Classics shoot totally different. I love my RT.

Oh, and welcome to AO!


I hear mountain dew shrinks your balls :D . As far as the RT valve goes that might be next years must have.

Is the RT and X valve the same performance wise? I think they are made of different material correct?

[Lenny]

I hear mountain dew shrinks your balls :D . As far as the RT valve goes that might be next years must have.

Is the RT and X valve the same performance wise? I think they are made of different material correct?
Sodas lower your sperm count, not decrease manhood size. So really any soft beverage will (Coke, Pepsi, Sprite, Mt. Dew). When people say that, I call it BC assistance. :cool:

RT and X valves are the exactsame function wise. The X is all alluminum, and the RT is half stainless steel, half alluminum.

[Lenny]

Almost forgot. ci/cu means cubic inches/units. Essentially the volume of the tank, whereas psi measures the pressures of the gas it can withstand.

[Zneaky]

Yea ci is cubic inches. They go above 100ci. If you get a 88ci, you will be carring a big-o-tank. and can run all day on it. If you go 48ci, you can carry a nice small tank, but will have to fill more often. If you are one of these back players who just unloads 600+ balls in a game, you need a big tank. 1) because you are not running far and this huge tank doesn't matter and 2) because you need the volume of the big tank to shoot that many balls in one game. If you play front you want the little tank, so you can run fast, get to the bunker and tuck in tight.

All depends on how you play.

Z