RT on/off not working! And other type problems...

[spike_ball999]

So I finally got a chance to test my mag. Yay! But then joy turned to frustration.

I was using 12g co2 into the vertical ASA. No quick shots either. Was also oiled before using.

First problem: it would only fire if I really screwed the velocity in. Like almost flush with the back of the valve. Do I need a new spring pack? I'm guessing yes.

Second problem: stock on/off worked fine. I put the RT on/off in with .750 pin and it would air up, but then I would fire, and it would not recharge. The rest of the air would go out the barrel. The pin is fine. However, I did notice that the top teflon o-ring fit a bit looser than on the stock on/off. Any advice here?

Thanks for all the help!

Oh, and I used up my 5 pack of 12g co2's trying to get it to work.

[MANN]

are you running a level 7 or 10 bolt? WHat spring is on your bolt?

[Automagrt666]

You're not using a ReTro Valve are you?

[spike_ball999]

Level 10 gold spring. When I checked it with the stock on/off it worked. Changing the on/off wouldn't upset that now would it?

And I'm using a classic valve.

[MANN]

you are probally using a spring that is too stiff. Change to the gold spring, and see how that works.

Remember the silver spring is the stiffest followed by the red, and last the gold. This is also how the lengths differ. THe silver being the longest.


Edit: I didnt read your post. You are already using the gold one. hmmm

[spike_ball999]

So I took appart my stock on/off to get to the other teflon o-ring and tested that one compared to the other. There's a better fit, but it's not by much. Not nearly as firm as on the stock pin. I'm suspecting that's where the problem lies.

I need a parts kit anyway... hehe

[spike_ball999]

I'm still open to ideas!

[flyingpootang]

What size on/off pin are you using. Use a .750 pin and make shure its well lubed.

[athomas]

Make sure you have all the proper orings in place. There should be two top orings. They are urethane for the retro on-off instead of the smaller one being teflon one in the classic.

[spike_ball999]

They are urethane for the retro on-off instead of the smaller one being teflon one in the classic.

That may be why then.

[spike_ball999]

Ok, got some more 12g to test with. Used them all again. :D

This time it actually fired with the RT on/off and teflon pin o-ring. It's seriously the lightest mech trigger I've ever felt! Anyway, I was getting consistent shots, no leaking and all was well.

However, I think I still may need to replace the spring pack for this reason; I would back off the velocity screw just enough to start seeing the threads again and it would not fire. The trigger did have pressure though. Screw it back in a little and it would work normally. I do not know my fps that I was shooting. Seemed like it was in the 260 to 280 range.
Based on the above, should I get a new spring pack?

[athomas]

If it works in the fps range you need it to, then it is fine. Check to see how much higher it can go. If it can't get much higher than 300fps then you don't have any extra adjustment and it should be replaced. But if there is extra room for adjustment, then I wouldn't worry about it.

[Shingo]

I found that placing a nut or a couple of washers that fit perfectly into the adjustment knob helps compress the spring pack even more... Pack of washer at a local hardware store will run under $2. So if your spring pack is 'spent', just drop a couple of washers in there to bring it back to life.

~Shingo~

[don miguel]

aren't you not supposed to use co2 w/ any king of RT valve anyways? (correct me if i'm wrong).

[spike_ball999]

aren't you not supposed to use co2 w/ any king of RT valve anyways? (correct me if i'm wrong).

Don, QFT.
If you would have read, I'm using an RT on/off in a CLASSIC valve. Do you make comments like that just to get attention?

Shingo, that's brilliant! I still haven't made it to the field yet, but we'll see what fps I'm getting.

[Shingo]

Here's another trick that might be helpful...
>>>(For mature players only... not recommended for kiddies with PBN and/or 'see-how-much-I-can-hurt-my-opponent' mentality)




When using a Lvl10 bolt your reg piston may start to leak out the back end when adjusting your fps to about 270+. Instead of buying a whole new reg piston that handles a lvl10 bolt, just tighten the hex screw in the reg piston. Please note that messing with the reg piston and/or adding washers inside the adjustment knob will most likely make your mag 'unsafe' since it can reach insane fps. :ninja:

(Pneumagger said he was able to reach 400+ fps by either tightening that piston screw or sealing the piston's exhaust vent completely with epoxy :wow: )

~Shingo~

[Smoothice]

spike_ball999

I have been looking into upgrading my classic valve by switching out my classic on/off and pin with a rt on/off and .750 pin.

Did this upgrade make your gun shoot faster?

Is your gun stock besides the on/off upgrade?

Thanks

[spike_ball999]

spike_ball999

I have been looking into upgrading my classic valve by switching out my classic on/off and pin with a rt on/off and .750 pin.

Did this upgrade make your gun shoot faster?

Just call me spike.

The on/off switch out will make you able to shoot faster. I haven't had the chance to test it, but the pull can't be much more than 2 lbs


Is your gun stock besides the on/off upgrade?

Thanks

For the most part, yes, if you include the Lvl10 stock. The only other mod/upgrade I have done is a sear mod. Not the ULT sear mod, but more of a sear polishing/filing to reduce the pull weight more.

More info can be found here:
(WARNING: Most of these mods are at your own risk)
http://www.warpig.com/linkout.cgi?http://web.archive.org/web/20010203001500/http://www-personal.umich.edu/~rchopra/Articles/MagTrigger/mag_trigger_job.html