Rt Problems!! Help

[Greg2230]

Hi, I just bought a classic RT on ebay and I really dont know much about them. I have a questions.

The trigger is VERY touchy. I dont know if thats how its supposed to be but i barely have to touch it. It goes into like a full auto mode like a gun would do when it is out of air???? There is plenty of air in though.


Any help would be appreciated. Thanks -Greg-

[nathanjones008]

yes you need a blue spacer. just order a parts kit. to anwswer the other questions what setup do you have on your gun or what upgrades do you have? :clap:

[Greg2230]

yes you need a blue spacer. just order a parts kit. to anwswer the other questions what setup do you have on your gun or what upgrades do you have? :clap:

I took of the slide thing and there is a clear spacer or O ring thing there but none in between the spring and the metal part. Also, it is completely stock. Would not having that blue spacer cause that issue i described? Thanks alot for your help. -Greg-

OH AND I FIGURED OUT THE ISSUE WITH THE BARREL

[flyingpootang]

Gregg the bolt should just have the spring over it there is no spacer. Between the bolt and the valve there should be a blue or clear bumper. The blue one is for a L7 bolt and the clear is for the L10 bolt. If you have a tube that extends past @ 1/4" out of the end of the bolt its a L10 if dosen't it's a L7.

[Greg2230]

Gregg the bolt should just have the spring over it there is no spacer. Between the bolt and the valve there should be a blue or clear bumper. The blue one is for a L7 bolt and the clear is for the L10 bolt. If you have a tube that extends past @ 1/4" out of the end of the bolt its a L10 if dosen't it's a L7.



Ok thank you very much. Thats very helpful and I appreciate it. Now I just need to figure out this damn trigger... I checked out all the O-rings and they all seem pretty decent to me.

[d4m4don3]

Check your field strip screw it either may be to tight or too lose.

[Greg2230]

Still need help please... Thanks

[Coralis]

Still need help please... Thanks

the previous owner probably shaved the on/off pin to make the gun super reactive ..... it should be .750 in length .... also if you have an adjustable air system turn down the pressure a little that can cause the issue you are having too

[kamikazeshot]

the previous owner probably shaved the on/off pin to make the gun super reactive ..... it should be .750 in length .... also if you have an adjustable air system turn down the pressure a little that can cause the issue you are having too


I too am having the same problem. I bought the rebuild kit AND a L10 kit have taken everything apart except the on off bottom (which I figure exposes the power tube assembly innards) I see the slight bit of room where I could put a screwdriver undeath to lift up the on off bottom so I could begin to unscrew it but I'm afraid to score the power tube.

How do I remove the on off bottom SAFELY so I can measure the pin? I do not have an adjustable air system, nor did the air system that came with it.

[athomas]

Hi, I just bought a classic RT on ebay and I really dont know much about them. I have 3 questions.

1.The trigger is VERY touchy. I dont know if thats how its supposed to be but i barely have to touch it. It goes into like a full auto mode like a gun would do when it is out of air???? There is plenty of air in though.

2. I took the bolt apart and there is no blue spacer in the bolt like my other mag. I dont know if thats just because it's an RT.\

3. Lastly, how the hell do you take the barrel out????? It doesnt twist out like my classic mag.


Any help would be appreciated. Thanks -Greg-
Classic mags had blue bumpers behind the bolt. RTs and retros had a clear bumper.

Unless it has an aluminum ULE body, it would have a twist lock barrel. It is probably just stuck. The twist lock may be damaged or gummed up. If you can't get the barrel out, remove the body from the rail and frame by removing the field strip screw and the frame screw. You will be able to check the condition of the twist lock assembly with the body removed from the rail.

Full auto can be caused by a worn sear. Check the condition of the sear tip. It doesn't take much wear to cause a problem. The good news, is that it takes a long time to wear a sear even a little bit.

[Greg2230]

Classic mags had blue bumpers behind the bolt. RTs and retros had a clear bumper.

Unless it has an aluminum ULE body, it would have a twist lock barrel. It is probably just stuck. The twist lock may be damaged or gummed up. If you can't get the barrel out, remove the body from the rail and frame by removing the field strip screw and the frame screw. You will be able to check the condition of the twist lock assembly with the body removed from the rail.

Full auto can be caused by a worn sear. Check the condition of the sear tip. It doesn't take much wear to cause a problem. The good news, is that it takes a long time to wear a sear even a little bit.


A worn trigger sear??? How do I tell if that is the problem? Thanks -Greg-

[athomas]

Look at the tip of the sear where it holds the bolt. The sears are usually a fairly sharp point at the tip. It it is rounded on the tip even a little bit, then it is worn.

[jenarelJAM]

the previous owner probably shaved the on/off pin to make the gun super reactive ..... it should be .750 in length .... also if you have an adjustable air system turn down the pressure a little that can cause the issue you are having too
That was the first thing I thought of too.


I too am having the same problem. I bought the rebuild kit AND a L10 kit have taken everything apart except the on off bottom (which I figure exposes the power tube assembly innards) I see the slight bit of room where I could put a screwdriver undeath to lift up the on off bottom so I could begin to unscrew it but I'm afraid to score the power tube.

How do I remove the on off bottom SAFELY so I can measure the pin? I do not have an adjustable air system, nor did the air system that came with it.
Take a little screwdriver(flathead) and pry the whole assembly(the square shaped brass colored thing with a little pin on the bottom of the valve) out. It might make a squelching noise when it pops out, it's only held in by the friction of the o-rings. Once the whole assembly is out, you can just poke the on/off pin with a tiny allen wrench or something and it should pop out. Good luck.

Edit: Rereading your post, it sounds like sometimes your talking about the powertube tip, and sometimes about the on/off assembly. The powertube is the brass thing on the front that the bolt slides over, the on/off assembly is the square thing on the bottom of the valve. The power tube tip unscrews, the on/off pops out.

[kamikazeshot]

Thanks! From the schematic pics, I thought the on/off bottom had threads & screwed in somehow, fuzzy pics.

As for the sub-machinegun sound, it wasn't my searing pin. I replaced my regulator pin b/c there was a VERY small crack in the o-ring on the pin that I didn't see. I also replaced my Regulator Piston Assembly to accomodate the level 10 bolt (which should be included in the L10 package imho). Works like a charm :headbang:

Thanks again for your help folks!!!

[Greg2230]

help me out too please! haha

[Coralis]

First off here is the manual in pdf format so that you can familiarize yourself with your markers workings http://www.airgun.com/Images/rtmanual.pdf. Like others have posted this can usually traced back to a few relatively easy things to fix (1) a worn/modified sear (2) a worn/modified on/off pin (3) output pressure of adjustable tank too high (4) worn/damaged regulator pin also you might just for the heck of it buy a parts kit and replace all the Orings . If this doesnt fix your marker it may be time to consider sending it to airgun designs , tuna or one of the other techs that frequent these boards