Just got a LNIB minimag - questions

[sdawg]

I just obtained a LNIB minimag.

1) The serial number is MM19545. About how old is this marker? The numbers seem to match.

2) The word "Minimag" on the valve and regulator portions of the back end do not line up perfectly. Is this a problem? Could the valve and regulator be out of alignment

3) When I aired up the minimag for the first time, the fittings were leaking. I took it apart to tighten them down, and I noticed that the bolt does not have any sort of rubber or foam that I have read about on its face. Instead, it was slightly concave. Is this a newer bolt design, or do I need to put a foamie/bumper/whatever on the bolt? What level bolt does this marker have?

4) I expected velocities to be fairly consistent because I am using HPA at 750psi as the powersource. However, my first test shots seemed to be about +/-10. Is there a break-in period for the regulator, like with other regulators, or is it possible that the seals became dried out or something while the minimag sat in storage for years?

:confused:

[wjr]

4) I expected velocities to be fairly consistent because I am using HPA at 750psi as the powersource. However, my first test shots seemed to be about +/-10. Is there a break-in period for the regulator, like with other regulators, or is it possible that the seals became dried out or something while the minimag sat in storage for years?

You probably just need a new reg seat.

As for the other stuff, I have no idea.

[p8ntbal4me]

Here you are!
I just obtained a LNIB minimag.

1) The serial number is MM19545. About how old is this marker? The numbers seem to match.

I dont really know,.. the only thing that you can tell from the serial number is that the 2 parts of the valve are sister to each other and they are or are not a field rental series. (In your case it is not)

2) The word "Minimag" on the valve and regulator portions of the back end do not line up perfectly. Is this a problem? Could the valve and regulator be out of alignment

The parts that you need to be concerned with are the little simulated lines of the internals etched into the bottom of the valve. These must line up to get the performance intended out of the valve. Basically you take the valve, view it from the side that the rail covers up and look to see if they line up. This only occures in stock valves or with aftermarket valve backs that honored the line up image during their production (the old Tornado Valve I have from AKA does not have the other half of this picture on it)

3) When I aired up the minimag for the first time, the fittings were leaking. I took it apart to tighten them down, and I noticed that the bolt does not have any sort of rubber or foam that I have read about on its face. Instead, it was slightly concave. Is this a newer bolt design, or do I need to put a foamie/bumper/whatever on the bolt? What level bolt does this marker have?

What do you mean by fittings?? You need to be somewhat specific as there is no way to help you with just the term fittings. Go here,.. and look at this diagram. (http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=78&categoryID=22) Now what you can do here is 2 things. First being you can point out the exact part you are looking at,.. and we can help you much easier. Second,.. take this diagram and leave it up on your screen. Get a paper towel, some approved gun oil (not WD-40), some Dow 33 grease (I prefer SP Shocker grease), a small pick if you have it, and take the valve apart on the paper towel. Seperate the parts and become familiar with them. If you have to,.. search the AO for a bigger diagram of the parts,... there is one on here some place.

Now you can do 2 things. You can choose to take all the parts and inspect them, grease all the o-rings, washers, etc that you find and put the valve back together and re-try with air. Or... you can wait. Take the valve and parts,... place in a ziplock bag nd set aside. Go here,.. and order a parts kit for your valve (http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=7&categoryID=92). I do my repairs this way because I find trying to match up internals with used and un-used pieces can cause more down time than I want to spend on my weekend working on one gun instead of shooting it. Im guessing that you have an aftermarket bolt. Does it look goldish in color? Does it have a face like a divit and anywhere from 6-12 holes on the face? Im GUESSING that it is and you have an older ANS bolt. I never liked mine as it added more pressure and a second hit on the ball before leaving the breach so I tossed mine. Others found them good.... now all I use is a Lvl 10.
The level doesnt really matter for performance,.. only remember these parts to decide what version of a mag valve you have.

Stainless Steel Bodies "classic valve" (what yours is)
- most common in older mags. Simple design, works in almost all weather conditions, standard diameter, will fit all mag bodies EXCEPT the original RT bodies

R/T or ReTro Valve (also known as "classic R/T" or "Original R/T"
- no longer in production, smaller in diameter of the original valves, only fits the bodies the classic RT was designed around.

Stainless Steel Bodies with R/T valve properties Not-ULT-Ready
- found in the original run of E-Mags and some X-Mags, has the same speed qualities as the original R/T valve but is the same diameter as the classic valves, will fit all mag bodies EXCEPT the original RT bodies, ULT trigger kit (makes your trigger easier to pull), does NOT "drop in", valve must be drilled out to take the ULT kit. (also known as "RT valves with the single o-ring at the bottom of the on/off assembly)

Stainless Steel Bodies with R/T valve properties ULT-Ready
- found in the original run of E-Mags and some X-Mags, has the same speed qualities as the original R/T valve but is the same diameter as the classic valves, will fit all mag bodies EXCEPT the original RT bodies, ULT trigger kit (makes your trigger easier to pull), WILL drop in as the valve sits. Does not require any modifications. (also known as "RT valves with the double o-ring at the bottom of the on/off assembly)

X-Valve w/ Level 10 Bolt (far as anyone knows, all are ULE-Ready)
- AGD newest flagship valve, made of the 7000 series aluminum (very light, very strong), lmost of the X-Mags valve this valve that were made in the last run, has the same speed qualities as the original R/T valve but is the same diameter as the classic valves, will fit all mag bodies EXCEPT the original RT bodies, ULT trigger kit (makes your trigger easier to pull), WILL drop in as the valve sits. Does not require any modifications. Comes standard with the Level 10 super bolt ("no more chops")



4) I expected velocities to be fairly consistent because I am using HPA at 750psi as the powersource. However, my first test shots seemed to be about +/-10. Is there a break-in period for the regulator, like with other regulators, or is it possible that the seals became dried out or something while the minimag sat in storage for years?

Get a parts kit,... and replace every seal. You should be fine. Oil your gun the night before you play as stated in some other posts on here. Done playing for the day? Take the valve COMPLETELY apart and remove all the oil off the internals. I like leaving my older valves apart till the night before I play,.. then I re-assemble and test itout with gas to make sure its working. Granted I have parts kits for every single gun I have so its not an issue. If you dont want to spend the time doing this as much and want an upgrade,... look here for the program called "GO X" (http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=8&categoryID=9). Its a program that allows you to send your older valve into AGD, pay $225USD and get an X-Valve. Is it worth it,.... what do you think? ;)

:confused:

[p8ntbal4me]

Oh 1 more thing,.... Im not a AGD tech. So if you have a question after a week of looking on here that we cant help you with,.. call AGD. THEY WILL HELP YOU!!

Im sure other AO'ers are going to drop some more information that I have wrong or that I forgot,.. so watch this post. You'll find that AO takes care of their own! Welcome to the AO!!!

[Spider-TW]

I just obtained a LNIB minimag.

1) The serial number is MM19545. About how old is this marker? The numbers seem to match.

2) The word "Minimag" on the valve and regulator portions of the back end do not line up perfectly. Is this a problem? Could the valve and regulator be out of alignment

3) When I aired up the minimag for the first time, the fittings were leaking. I took it apart to tighten them down, and I noticed that the bolt does not have any sort of rubber or foam that I have read about on its face. Instead, it was slightly concave. Is this a newer bolt design, or do I need to put a foamie/bumper/whatever on the bolt? What level bolt does this marker have?

4) I expected velocities to be fairly consistent because I am using HPA at 750psi as the powersource. However, my first test shots seemed to be about +/-10. Is there a break-in period for the regulator, like with other regulators, or is it possible that the seals became dried out or something while the minimag sat in storage for years?

:confused:

1) Matching numbers is nice. You have factory parts. I bet one of these guys here has a list of numbers by year, but 19545 shouldn't be too old. It's stainless anyway, the kind of lube it has had makes the biggest difference in the seals (which are cheap to replace).

2) My old original valve, Automag in the 4000's, would rotate a bit with the mismatched text. This rotation of the regulator (back end) is only as far as the little zig zag in the frame rail where the regulator locator pin slides will allow. When you assemble the reg and put it in, it eventually backs out that much, which gives you the same effect as backing off your regulator adjustment screw that much. It stops there. I would usually put it back the same way so my velocity wouldn't drift down. You might check that you have a urethane washer or oring on your back frame screw that holds the valve in. Mine was too long with out a washer and the reg wasn't really held against the rail and was easy to turn.

3) Level 7 bolts are all metal with a convex shape at the edges and having a concave tip (aka foamie-less bolts). Pictures are on here somewhere. Foamies were hard to maintain when mags would chop paint. The foamie-less bolt was an upgrade. I think foamies mainly came back with the level 10 bolt.

4) Shoot some good lube through it without the barrel if you haven't already. It's the mag bath. When you're looking for +/- 2 fps, make sure all of your paint is round, consistent diameter, dry and clean. Make sure your barrel is clean. Check these immediately before your test to make sure you don't get condensation, dimples or dog drool. The nice thing about old seals is that they match their running surfaces perfectly. The bad thing is that they can crack and fail on any day (that you want to play).

Sounds like your mag will be just fine and the worst case is you may want a seal kit. Enjoy! If you don't some one here will be happy to take it off your hands :bounce: