Don't know how to build...

[Pryme7]

Hey guys sorry for the newbie question but i'm new to the intricacies of the mag, and i'm interested in building one my self. Now as to what i need.....i don't have a clue :confused: ....so what is the list of parts needed to put together a mag? I know that i want an RT and Lvl 10. so.....i know it's a pain maybe to ask for a specific parts list....but. thanks for your time....peace :D

[fastev]

Honestly, you'd probably be better off getting a complete one and start customizing it from there. That way you'll get a better understanding of how the Mag functions before you start throwing a bunch of parts together. If you want to build your own, you need a body, rail with the correct sear/pin, frame, Classic, RT Pro, E-mag, X, etc. valve, you'll probably want a foregrip of some sort, some misc hardware for bolting it all together, and a barrel. LX, ULT, are more options that you'll need to choose. Just make sure you get the correct on/off for whatever valve you choose if it doesn't come with one. Good luck, and post some pics when you are done!

[Remagk]

what is your budget? then we go from there.

[Pryme7]

what is your budget? then we go from there.

i was going to judge that once i figured all the parts....

Lvl 10
ULE'd
Xvalve\ RT valve - do i have to use the RT valve to have an RT?
i'd like a Z grip
i have a AC threaded barrel kit already
Double detents
CP self voiding ASA
Locking\ Twisting feed neck
bike foregrip
i like the tac one look, but i'd rather have something more custom...


what else do i need?

[benzy2]

Well you dont NEED anything else. The valves come basically in two types. Classic is one. Rt/emag/x is another. If you want an RT gun you need either an RT/E/X valve. Otherwise it will be a classic valved gun. The RT/Emag/Xvalves all in practical sense are the same and if you have one of the three it will be an RT gun. The x valves are worth the most. Then the emag valves and then the regular rt valves.

As for what you want/need. What is your price range? You can get a cheap classic for under 100 or you can get a real nice mech for 500 or you can go pneumag for 5-700 or you can go x/emag for 7-1000, It all depends on what you want to spend. You can get a lot or you can get a little. It all depends on your budget.

[Remagk]

i was going to judge that once i figured all the parts....

Lvl 10
ULE'd
Xvalve\ RT valve - do i have to use the RT valve to have an RT?
i'd like a Z grip
i have a AC threaded barrel kit already
Double detents
CP self voiding ASA
Locking\ Twisting feed neck
bike foregrip
i like the tac one look, but i'd rather have something more custom...


what else do i need?
1) x valve w/ Lv10 - 175-200
2) ule'd rail - 50-80 (look at BST section or I can sell u my rtp rail and u can have Luke custom mill it to whatever u like)
3) z-grip - 100+
4) ule bady - 75 (double detent - extra add on)
5) feed neck - 20-30
6) va & bike grip - 20-30
7) asa - depends
basicaly u are talking about 440 plus the cost of misc. hardware.

[MANN]

dont forget your sear & pin, rear thumb screw. That will add another ~20 bucks to your total

[Pryme7]

Well you dont NEED anything else. The valves come basically in two types. Classic is one. Rt/emag/x is another. If you want an RT gun you need either an RT/E/X valve. Otherwise it will be a classic valved gun. The RT/Emag/Xvalves all in practical sense are the same and if you have one of the three it will be an RT gun. The x valves are worth the most. Then the emag valves and then the regular rt valves.

As for what you want/need. What is your price range? You can get a cheap classic for under 100 or you can get a real nice mech for 500 or you can go pneumag for 5-700 or you can go x/emag for 7-1000, It all depends on what you want to spend. You can get a lot or you can get a little. It all depends on your budget.

sweet thanks guys...so my only other question then is how are the RT\X valve any different?
i know i'm not interested in going Emag, i want to stay mech. and what's up with the pnuemag?

[benzy2]

The difference is that the rt is made of SS which is heavier and cant take ano and the X is made of aluminum which can take ano. Also the top of the hole the on/off fits in is slightly different. In the RT it is drilled for a single oring. For the X valve it is drilled wider and you put a larger oring in then the smaller oring that is used in the rt valve inside it. The only difference you see is that the dual oring valves can take a ULE trigger which drops trigger pull weight a bunch. The single oring RT valves need to be drilled out to the dual oring size to use the ULE trigger.

As for pneumagging it. What you do is you put a small ram in front of the sear and connect it to a very light 3 way valve that gives you a pull that is really short and really light. A quality setup will have a pull as light and short as a decent electro giving you electro speeds.

[Pryme7]

The difference is that the rt is made of SS which is heavier and cant take ano and the X is made of aluminum which can take ano. Also the top of the hole the on/off fits in is slightly different. In the RT it is drilled for a single oring. For the X valve it is drilled wider and you put a larger oring in then the smaller oring that is used in the rt valve inside it. The only difference you see is that the dual oring valves can take a ULE trigger which drops trigger pull weight a bunch. The single oring RT valves need to be drilled out to the dual oring size to use the ULE trigger.

As for pneumagging it. What you do is you put a small ram in front of the sear and connect it to a very light 3 way valve that gives you a pull that is really short and really light. A quality setup will have a pull as light and short as a decent electro giving you electro speeds.

awesome thanks benzy...

[benzy2]

If you can go pneumag. The one I have will shoot as fast as I can shoot my promaster. It is a very light pull and is great fun. If you have a few tools around the house you can do it yourself. If not there are people on here that will do it for you.