Help for a friend

[txaggie08]

went though the gun today and replaced virtually every seal with one from the kit. everything is normal seal wise. Just so ya know, it is normal for mags to leak just a bit when they're gassed up.

One thing I found out about this gun today, and it something you'll have to tinker with is that the frame is slightly bent. The idea here is to basically make the trigger adjustable. You can "adjust" the timing of the bolt being released and the gas being dumped by which bolt is screwed in first. Since it has this modification it acts like it has a modified(lightened pull and trigger job) trigger. This causes a bit more leakage than normal, but it means that it can be fired faster.

From what I understand, if you tighten up the front nut tight then tighten up the rear one as much as you can it will make it more like stock.

Its all just something you'll have to tinker with. I know jack **** about this gun and whats been done to it. Like I told you I traded for it and shot maybe 50 balls through it total.

Hope you like it man. Good luck.

the principle behind how this works is kinda hard to explain, but I get kinda get it. When you pull the trigger on a mag it releases the bolt up front and at nearly the same time it pushes up on a pin that dumps the gas for the shot down and out the bolt.

When you do a trigger job on a mag you're changing it so that the sear is already contacting the pin(can/does cause the small leak, mags have an almost standard small leak anyway) so that it can be activated with a shorter, quicker pull of the trigger.

With the frame like it is, you can tighten the front and rear bolts individually to change the way the sear contacts the pin. (I think I got that right, tryin to remember how he told me).

If you don't like it swap out a stock rail. You can probably get one from somebodies parts sale for like 5 bucks.



A friend sent this to me on another forum today, this is what the seller told him. It sounds to me like the sear rod is to far out, anyone ever heard of this mystical "frame bendng method"?

[RabidFuzzle]

Its normal for mags to leak when they are gassed up? :rolleyes: I have never had a Mag leak that didn't have an issue that needed fixed.

Fuzz:bounce:

[JH_]

this is my mag. thanks for all the help guys.

[txaggie08]

Ah, He reigstered! JH is the owner, another one into the fold..


one of us, one of us...

[JH_]

one more question guys

which lube. Dow33/Dow 55/Slick Honey

and is tri flow oil good? lmk thanks in advance.

[Coralis]

Autolube, KC trouble free oil, Air tool oil ... basically any oil that is safe for orings will work in a mag. The only place you might want to use a small amount of grease would be the spring pack and even there its mainly for rust protection more than anything else.

[JH_]

Autolube, KC trouble free oil, Air tool oil ... basically any oil that is safe for orings will work in a mag. The only place you might want to use a small amount of grease would be the spring pack and even there its mainly for rust protection more than anything else.
so triflow will work?

[Tunaman]

"When you do a trigger job on a mag you're changing it so that the sear is already contacting the pin(can/does cause the small leak, mags have an almost standard small leak anyway) so that it can be activated with a shorter, quicker pull of the trigger."

Get Tom in here to verify this. Might be what we have all been waiting for... :tard:

[Tunaman]

OK. No joking around. This mag is in need of service. If someone wants to buy it, send it here and I'll go over it, remove the "Mods", and get it working right.

[txaggie08]

JH, if it comes in and its not just the sear rod screwed out to far, sending it to tuna for a servicing would be a damn good idea...... cause honestly if its not that, theres no telling what kind of basket case the valve is. I personaly would be demanding a partial refund from him, If he neglected to tell you that till the end, he wasnt an honest seller. At the very least make him foot the bill to tuna cause what he's telling you is bogus. If he feeds you any crap illd also go to jaggy(once you have it in hand) and make a complaint to him....


This is what he bought btw....(JH im assuming you bought the one you told me you were plannign to.....)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v382/lbreevesii/Guns/mag2Medium.jpg

[JH_]

ok i shot it today and it still leaked from the inside of the body badly. i need ideas on what to do.

the previous owner agreed to pay for all of the parts i need to buy if i need any so any ideas will be welcomed. i am not trying to rip him off i just want to get this fixed.

i am a little scared to open it up and work on it because this is my first mag so any suggestions will be appreciated.

p.s. the few shots that came out were nice :rolleyes:

[txaggie08]

OK, mags are easy to take apart ;).

First question is, how tightly is the rod behind the trigger pushing on the trigger itself? If i remember correctly, it should not be touching the trigger, but close to it......


In all honesty, get a quote from tuna on a servicing and have him do it......

[Coralis]

This probably all you need
http://store.airgun.com/images/product/7.jpg

If its leaking from the body .... probably on/off oring or perhaps the oring between the two valve halfs

[JH_]

This probably all you need
http://store.airgun.com/images/product/7.jpg

If its leaking from the body .... probably on/off oring or perhaps the oring between the two valve halfs
i have that. the previous owner said he replaced everything and i believe him because he offered to pay for anything that i have to do to fix it. i'm more afraid to open it up than anything because i don't have a manual to put it back together. this is my first mag.

[JH_]

OK, mags are easy to take apart ;).

First question is, how tightly is the rod behind the trigger pushing on the trigger itself? If i remember correctly, it should not be touching the trigger, but close to it......


In all honesty, get a quote from tuna on a servicing and have him do it......
it is slightly touching it. are there any guides to taking it apart?

[txaggie08]

you remove the rear thumb screw, turn the valve counterclockwise and the whole assembly comes out, bolt and all. Take the front screw out and the frame, rail, and body will come apart. Try shortening the sear rod a bit.


Best advice would still be to have him foot the bill to tuna's shop however. He doesnt charge alot and know way more about airgun products than i do for sure...

[Coralis]

t is slightly touching it. are there any guides to taking it apart?


Here is a couple of links you should be familar with http://www.airgun.com/ and http://www.airgun.com/manual.shtml

[txaggie08]

I think hes trading for a lvlX and sending it in to tuna :D.

[egb groupie]

I don't know if you have taken it apart yet, but make sure you press the trigger in as far as it will go before you take the back screw out and slide the valve out. Of course, make sure you aren't gassed up when doing this. This ensures the on/off pin has enough clearance to slide out with the valve without snagging up on the body. Snagging up on the body, if you try pulling hard enough, can bend that pin, and that will cause more leaks. Also, before you try to adjust the trigger rod length, take a lighter or some other flame source to the area where it is threaded into for just a few seconds to heat it up. This will loosen up any loctite that might be holding it tight in there. Hope this helps alittle more.

[robnix]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v382/lbreevesii/Guns/mag2Medium.jpg[/QUOTE]

Wow! That's a HOT mag. I hope you do send it to Tuna and let him at it to get it working right.

[olinar]

is it just me or would that rail look sick with a chord body.

[txaggie08]

I thought that when he first showed it to me....