Help

[FIST2CUFF]

Hello all. I am new to this forum and to AGD markers and I hope I have not put this in the wrong area. I am very interested in getting an AGD marker but I need a little help with the differences in models and bolts for these markers. Is there a thread here that has that info? If not then I have some questions that I need to post. Thanks for any help.

[FIST2CUFF]

Hello all. I am new to this forum and to AGD markers and I hope I have not put this in the wrong area. I am very interested in getting an AGD marker but I need a little help with the differences in models and bolts for these markers. Is there a thread here that has that info? If not then I have some questions that I need to post. Thanks for any help.
Hello again. After thinking about my post I feel that I may be too broad with my question. I have been checking out the forum and the store for awhile and see the basic differences between the models so thats not a problem. Maybe this will narrow it down some. How much compatability is there between the different models? As as an example: a 68 classic, pro classic, and a tac1? Whats the difference between the different bolts ex: level7, 10, and xbolt and what is the compatibility with the different bolts with the different models? Oh yea, I see there is a difference in the barrels ex:twist lock/and cocker threaded. If I get a marker that uses a twist lock barrel what can/has to be done to the marker to accept a cocker threaded barrel or is that a dumb question?? ex:The tac1 accepts cocker threaded barrels correct? Are they made to accept twist lock barrels or is this another dumb question? Is there any issue with accuracy between the two? I will be getting an agd marker but I just want to be sure I am getting my homework done first so I can better choose what I want. Wish I had heard of AGD before I heard of Tippmann. :rolleyes: Thanks again for any help and I hope I not looking too much like a noob. :bounce:

[Tony Montana]

Don't sweat it, just don't ask cyrus-the-virus for any help as he is a useless waste of space. Difference between level 7 and level 10 is that 10, with correct tuning, won't chop a paintball. Which is pretty amazing without any electronic eyes or anything. However, the level 10 is less air efficient than the level 7, but if you don't want electronics in your gun, def. go with level 10. Twist lock barrels were what originally came with AGD guns. There is a pretty limited selection of them so that's why all the new bodies take cocker threaded barrels because there are so many to choose from. There is an adapter to make a twist lock body accept cocker threaded barrels. I think it's Doc's twistlock adapter or something like that. As far as I know, there is no adapter to go from cocker threaded to twist lock, and honestly, I couldn't see a reason for wanting to do that. There are many roads you can take in getting an AGD gun, such as straight from them, or through these forums. In the Buy/Sell/Trade, people are always selling their already customized and tuned markers. Also, people from here have started their own businesses customizing/building markers to order, such as www.themagsmith.com Another thing to consider is that the older/classic guns can use either C02 or nitro. The guns that have the xvalve, such as tac one, emag/xmag, paradigm (from themagsmith) can only be used with nitro. I hope I answered most of your questions. If you have any more, don't hesitate to ask. You're one of us now..... :ninja:

*EDIT* Not sure if you can still get markers from themagsmith, as it shows they are out of stock, but someone on here was just talking about getting one from him, so if you're interested, I would suggest sending him an email or something.

[FIST2CUFF]

Don't sweat it, just don't ask cyrus-the-virus for any help as he is a useless waste of space. Difference between level 7 and level 10 is that 10, with correct tuning, won't chop a paintball. Which is pretty amazing without any electronic eyes or anything. However, the level 10 is less air efficient than the level 7, but if you don't want electronics in your gun, def. go with level 10. Twist lock barrels were what originally came with AGD guns. There is a pretty limited selection of them so that's why all the new bodies take cocker threaded barrels because there are so many to choose from. There is an adapter to make a twist lock body accept cocker threaded barrels. I think it's Doc's twistlock adapter or something like that. As far as I know, there is no adapter to go from cocker threaded to twist lock, and honestly, I couldn't see a reason for wanting to do that. There are many roads you can take in getting an AGD gun, such as straight from them, or through these forums. In the Buy/Sell/Trade, people are always selling their already customized and tuned markers. Also, people from here have started their own businesses customizing/building markers to order, such as www.themagsmith.com Another thing to consider is that the older/classic guns can use either C02 or nitro. The guns that have the xvalve, such as tac one, emag/xmag, paradigm (from themagsmith) can only be used with nitro. I hope I answered most of your questions. If you have any more, don't hesitate to ask. You're one of us now..... :ninja:

*EDIT* Not sure if you can still get markers from themagsmith, as it shows they are out of stock, but someone on here was just talking about getting one from him, so if you're interested, I would suggest sending him an email or something.

Thanks for your help!!! It really helped. I use HPA and I will check out themagsmith.com. I have already been looking at the stuff for sale on the forum. :headbang:

[FIST2CUFF]

Hey, something else I thought of. I see that typically an airline comes from the right side of the ASA (usually under the handgrip) curves up and forward then back and goes to the upper right side of the valve/bolt correct? Also I see that some AGD markers have an air thru grip on them with a line coming from the ASA to the bottom of the grip and a second line will come out on the top right side of the grip and go back to the valve/bolt. Ok, also I have seen still others that only have the a line that goes to the bottom of the grip from the ASA with no line coming back out. How does the air supply get to the valve/bolt with this type of front grip on it? :confused: Also I tried to email the folks at themagsmith.com and the server on there end would not except it. I will try again. Thanks again.

[rawbutter]

Hey, something else I thought of. I see that typically an airline comes from the right side of the ASA (usually under the handgrip) curves up and forward then back and goes to the upper right side of the valve/bolt correct? Also I see that some AGD markers have an air thru grip on them with a line coming from the ASA to the bottom of the grip and a second line will come out on the top right side of the grip and go back to the valve/bolt. Ok, also I have seen still others that only have the a line that goes to the bottom of the grip from the ASA with no line coming back out. How does the air supply get to the valve/bolt with this type of front grip on it? :confused: Also I tried to email the folks at themagsmith.com and the server on there end would not except it. I will try again. Thanks again.

Sometimes you just don't see the hose. For example...
http://www.automags.org/forums/showpost.php?p=1256320&postcount=1520
If you look at the bottom picture, you can't see the line going from the valve to the foregrip... but it's there.

There are also guns like this...
http://www.automags.org/forums/showpost.php?p=2306835&postcount=2184

Notice the line from his valve? There isn't one. Either he didn't have it installed at the time of the photo, or (like myself) he attaches a remote line directly to the valve so he can avoid the weight of a tank.

Some people even have gas-through rails (sorry... couldn't find a pic), so there are even less air lines visible.

This is one of the coolest things about mags, IMHO. You can take any mag and set up the air line a dozen different ways.

If you buy a used gun off someone, they will probably already have it set up with a good air system. If you buy from a dealer (like airguns.com or themagsmith.com), you'll have to make sure there's an air system set up on the gun if you don't want to do it yourself. themagsmith.com does it for you on all the models I've checked out. At airguns.com, you often need to pay a little extra for it, but they'll do it.

[FIST2CUFF]

It must have been a gas thru rail that I seen. That blue marker was awesome looking!!! :headbang: Thanks again for the help. The more I see the more I know I gotta have one!!

[nathanjones008]

people are becoming interested in mags, one convert at a time :headbang:

[MANN]

Here is my short sweet breakdown to try to explain mags. You have 4 basic parts on a mag (Rail, Body, Valve, Frame). Depending on what feel you like you can choose between all of them. All automag parts are enterchangeable except the RT classic (If you want one of these you will have to find a used one.)

For instance.
If you want to use twistlock barrels you will need an automag/minimag body. If you want to use cocker threaded barrels you will need a ule/tac-one/micromag body.

On rails there are basicly 2 different styles. automag, and RT/emag. The difference in the two is basicly looks. One is longer and fatter than the other. They also take two different types of sears. Both work with all bodies listed above

On valves I will let zak vetter explain. He did it right, and there is no point in reinventing the wheel
http://www.zakvetter.com/pages/paintballs/automag_info/agd_valves.html (also check out some of his vids)

On frames. You will notice intelliframes, Ygrips, Zgrips, carbon fiber grips, RPG chimera grips, etc, etc. They all do the same thing, but look different. If you get one, and decide you want to try something else just look in the B/S/T forum, and you can probally find someone to trade with.

You will also hear about a ULT or ULE trigger. This is the same thing. It basicly makes your trigger super light. The pull is very short, crisp, and of course light.

As for level 10.... It is worth its weight in gold. Basicly if you shoot a shot, and a ball is not completely in the breech the bolt will "feel" the ball, and go backwards to its original position. Its kinda hard to explain, but the videos in the link below should prove its worthyness

http://www.airgun.com/xmag/html/xtras2.html

I hope this helps/clears up any questions. Like previous replies stated there are many of us here, and most of us are happy to help.

Welcome to AO :cheers:

[MANN]

Be sure to check out "tongue" first

[spectre184]

. I use HPA and I will ............

Make sure the tank you are using is considered a high output psi tank. 800-850psi or higher. All mags valves run on high output HPA tanks. They dont like low output tanks (400'ish PSI).

[FIST2CUFF]

Make sure the tank you are using is considered a high output psi tank. 800-850psi or higher. All mags valves run on high output HPA tanks. They dont like low output tanks (400'ish PSI).

Oh yea...it is! I have had it awhile and it was expensive but it was worth it. I have a Nitro Duck 91/4500. I use a remote line with it. For a short time I carried it on my marker...WOW what a workout that was. Thanks again fellas for the info! :cheers:

[FIST2CUFF]

I got another question. I was checking out the ULE triger pull kit and it states on the store web page that the kit is a:
"Drop-In retrofit for X-Valves, Emag Valves or Modified Retro-Valves.** NOT suitable for use with Automag/Classic/Minimag Valves.

**Although the ULE trigger pull kit fits in Emag, Xmag and X-Valves, it should not be used in an Emag or Xmag."
This is copied and pasted from the store web page. So this leaves me a little confused becuase the way it is worded I understand it to state that the trigger pull kit is only for Modified RetroValves or X-valves. So with that said how could I lighten the trigger pull for a pro classic (as an example) ?

[MANN]

Put a RT on/off in a classic valve to lighten it. The ULT is very hard to tune with a classic valve, but has been done before, but is not recomended.

[FIST2CUFF]

And a RT on/off is???

[Mayzons]

And a RT on/off is???
It is the stock on/off thats comes standard in the rt-pro, e-mag and x-valve.The only diffenence is the pin length.They use the .750 pin which is the standard x-valve pin

[FIST2CUFF]

Please forgive me but I am still not sure exactly what this part is. Is it a mechanical on/off switch that is part of the valve that turns off the air supply? I went to the AGD online store to try and find a "RT on/off" and had no luck although it may simply be because I am not sure what I am looking for. Sorry to drag it out but I thank you and everyone else for your help.

[MANN]

Here is the on/off from airgun

basicly a brass cylinder with a ss pin going thru it

http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.catalog&categoryID=23

[FIST2CUFF]

OK so this is a pin that is inside the valve and the rt part is longer then the older part. Thanks again for the help!! :headbang: