xvalve

[Hotaru]

hey guys, I have an xvalve that continuously leaks out the back where the velocity adjuster is. I have checked most of the O rings and they are all fine.

What am i missing?

I took the regulator apart and cleaned the double springs inside and all those orings are in good shape

I dont know a whole crap load about these xvalves and am getting fed up with it.

I really need help or even a diagram or cross section of an xvalve. That would help alot.

[Hotaru]

Ok. i've found the break down of the bolt and valve. I find that i have no shims anywhere on my xvalve or bolt. Can someone get me a link to where i can buy some? I cant seem to find them on the airguns sight.

[p8ntbal4me]

Ok. i've found the break down of the bolt and valve. I find that i have no shims anywhere on my xvalve or bolt. Can someone get me a link to where i can buy some? I cant seem to find them on the airguns sight.

Im going to be up late brother,. so I can help you a bit.

First,.. go here and look at this (http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=194223&highlight=diagram+x-valve)

In this picture,... part number 5 is a shim. It depends on the way your level 10 was setup on how many if any shims are used. Remember shims work with the carrier rings on the level 10 bolt.

Is your xvlave new??? Like you just bought it and its neer been used?

[Coralis]

Here is the manual in pdf form http://www.airgun.com/downloads/RT-ULE.Tac-One.Manual.pdf look at page 5 under blow off valve, which means you probably need a new regulator piston

[Automagsam]

You probably need to replace the regulator piston, this is a common problem, I've heard about, and one kid over at PBnation mentioned this, as well as my friend Snoopay700, who is purchasing a new one, but if you replace that your issue should be resolved. Before you go and do that make sure you have enough pressure in your tank, pull the regulator pin out (the pin with the reg seat, the grooved brass piece) and make sure there's nothing caught, and if all else fails try ordering a new regulator piston from airgun.com

here is the thread over at pbnation that should also help you if you want to know more: http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2013551

[snoopay700]

You probably need to replace the regulator piston, this is a common problem, I've heard about, and one kid over at PBnation mentioned this, as well as my friend Snoopay700, who is purchasing a new one, but if you replace that your issue should be resolved. Before you go and do that make sure you have enough pressure in your tank, pull the regulator pin out (the pin with the reg seat, the grooved brass piece) and make sure there's nothing caught, and if all else fails try ordering a new regulator piston from airgun.com

here is the thread over at pbnation that should also help you if you want to know more: http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2013551
Psh, you should cite your sources for the last part, haha. But yeah, sometimes if i don't have enough pressure in my tank it'll leak out of the back, so that's the first thing i normally tell people to look for.

[Automagsam]

Psh, you should cite your sources for the last part, haha. But yeah, sometimes if i don't have enough pressure in my tank it'll leak out of the back, so that's the first thing i normally tell people to look for.
lol He said that cause I asked him for help and I'm lazy so i copy and pasted our aim convo. lol, but listen to this kid, he is like a walking agd sponge! Snoopay700 is my best friend but I'm not biased when i say he knows what he is talking about.

[athomas]

hey guys, I have an xvalve that continuously leaks out the back where the velocity adjuster is. I have checked most of the O rings and they are all fine.

What am i missing?

I took the regulator apart and cleaned the double springs inside and all those orings are in good shape

I dont know a whole crap load about these xvalves and am getting fed up with it.

I really need help or even a diagram or cross section of an xvalve. That would help alot.Constant leaking out the back at or near proper velocity settings with good orings around the piston means your regulator piston assembly is worn out or weak. The older ones were set to lower pressures than the new ones, so any wear at all when using level 10 bolts causes leaking. Replace this assembly and you will be good to go.

If you are ordering the piston assembly, order a few level 10 shims to have on hand. I wouldn't worry about this though. The shims only shorten the distance that the bolt has to travel before it can dump air pressure. Even under most extreme cases of a breach block, the bolt can travel far enough to allow the air to vent and reset the bolt.

[snoopay700]

Constant leaking out the back at or near proper velocity settings with good orings around the piston means your regulator piston assembly is worn out or weak. The older ones were set to lower pressures than the new ones, so any wear at all when using level 10 bolts causes leaking. Replace this assembly and you will be good to go.

If you are ordering the piston assembly, order a few level 10 shims to have on hand. I wouldn't worry about this though. The shims only shorten the distance that the bolt has to travel before it can dump air pressure. Even under most extreme cases of a breach block, the bolt can travel far enough to allow the air to vent and reset the bolt.
Hmmm, i guess that explains why mine has had leaking problems since i got it (it's a classic rt, the lower pressure and being old probably coupled to make it worse) but it wasn't bad until saturday. Luckily that day i ordered a new one, so hopefully i'll be set to go.

[Hotaru]

Thank you so much.

My Xvlave is quite old. the serial number is VV02984

I apreciate the help guys. Maybe i can have this beast up and running soon. Too bad it wont be here by saturday.... I'll just have to use my minimag valve i guess. Oh well.

I bought the regulator piston and the level 10 shims. If it doesnt work i'll be back

[athomas]

I just reread the thread and realized you had an xvalve and not a retro valve. The xvalves are newer. They shouldn't have the older lower pressure regulator piston assemblies. The come stock with the higher pressure assemblies. That being said, it still may be the problem.

[Hotaru]

OK. I just got my new piston and it no longer leaks out the back but!!! i screw in the HPA and it clicks and everything but i go to pull the trigger and nothing happens. I worked on the small threaded rod on the sear and made it longer which should lower my trigger pull but nothing.

Any suggestions? I also got like six shims but havnt really had any luck with them.

[p8ntbal4me]

OK. I just got my new piston and it no longer leaks out the back but!!! i screw in the HPA and it clicks and everything but i go to pull the trigger and nothing happens. I worked on the small threaded rod on the sear and made it longer which should lower my trigger pull but nothing.

Any suggestions? I also got like six shims but havnt really had any luck with them.

Does the trigger and sear pin behind the trigger actually move to the rear or is it stuck?

Whats your input pressure on the tank set at? If its a preset u can call it 800-900psi

How far out is your rear velocity screw backed out? I would turn it in a couple times nad see if that helps at all.

If it "clicks" when you give it air and it doesnt leak, I would say its something to do with the on/off. Maybe your on/off pin is too short?? Might be a badly seated o-ring,....

Whens the last time you took the valve apart and made sure you had every part in the x-valve diagram? Just asking if you replaced an older part for a newer one.

[athomas]

Did you increase the velocity setting?

Check your level 10 setup. Make sure you have the proper size carrier. Use the largest carrier that doesn't leak. Make sure you do this with no level 10 shims installed. If it won't shoot with the middle spring, go to the shortest spring. Once you have the carrier properly sized, tune your ULT. Keep adding shims until it shoots and won't reset or fires multiple shots. Then remove 1 or 2 shims and you should be good to go.

When the gun is charged with air, does the trigger rod sit fully forward? There should be a slight gap between the back of the trigger and the front of the trigger rod (the trigger should swing forward freely to allow a gap). If the gap is excessive or none at all, it will cause issues with firing of the gun.

[Hotaru]

Did you increase the velocity setting?

Check your level 10 setup. Make sure you have the proper size carrier. Use the largest carrier that doesn't leak. Make sure you do this with no level 10 shims installed. If it won't shoot with the middle spring, go to the shortest spring. Once you have the carrier properly sized, tune your ULT. Keep adding shims until it shoots and won't reset or fires multiple shots. Then remove 1 or 2 shims and you should be good to go.

When the gun is charged with air, does the trigger rod sit fully forward? There should be a slight gap between the back of the trigger and the front of the trigger rod (the trigger should swing forward freely to allow a gap). If the gap is excessive or none at all, it will cause issues with firing of the gun.


ok. There is no gap between the sear pin and the trigger. I can fix that easily enough. I will try it with a longer spring seeing as i am using the shortest one i have right now.

What may i ask is a "carrier"? I currently have no shims installed.

and yes i messed around with the velocity setting alot but still nothing. Also i am a little confused about where the shims go. Do they go where the sear hits the valve? or up where the bolt goes over that tube.

I am sorry i am so dense. Thank you for giving your time.

[Hotaru]

Does the trigger and sear pin behind the trigger actually move to the rear or is it stuck?

Whats your input pressure on the tank set at? If its a preset u can call it 800-900psi

How far out is your rear velocity screw backed out? I would turn it in a couple times nad see if that helps at all.

If it "clicks" when you give it air and it doesnt leak, I would say its something to do with the on/off. Maybe your on/off pin is too short?? Might be a badly seated o-ring,....

Whens the last time you took the valve apart and made sure you had every part in the x-valve diagram? Just asking if you replaced an older part for a newer one.

The trigger and sear move but not a whole lot.

Tank is a preset tank.

I have messed with that velocity screw alot and stil no dice. Turning it in pulling the trigger then out a bit and nothing.

It clicked the first time i aired it up but then didnt click again after that. I replaced the piston which was really easy just take out the velocity screw take the old one out and drop the new one in.

My pin could possibly be too short but the Xvalve used to work fine but the gun would leak out the barrel.

I'll look the xvalve over and make sure i have all the parts tomorrow after work. I got to get ready in half an hour.

Thank you for your help.

[athomas]

Don't worry about your on-off pin being too short. If it was too short, you would have a problem with it always wanting to shoot full auto rather than not being able to shoot at all.

Keep the short bolt spring until you get it working.

The carrier holds the oring inside the powertube of the valve. The carriers come in different inside diameters. The allow you to adjust the tension of the oring on the bolt stem. If the tension is too much (carrier too small), then the bolt won't slide forward when you release the sear and the gun won't fire. If the tension is not enough, the air will leak out the front of the valve.

The powertube is the part that the bolt slides into at the front of the valve. Shims go between the powertube tip and the carrier to force the carrier and oring farther back in the powertube. Too many shims, and the bolt vent hole will always be exposed and the gun will continuously leak. The shims were designed to shorten the distance that the bolt had to travel before it could reset in the event of a breach blockage. In reality, the distance is so short that the bolt will almost always travel far enough even without any shims.

If you don't have a gap between the trigger and the trigger rod, then that could be your problem. Fix that first. It will prevent the sear from rotating forward and opening the on-off to allow the front chamber of the valve to recharge. Without the front chamber charging, there is no pressure to push the bolt forward and the gun won't fire.

[Hotaru]

ALRIGHT! Ok, I got her working properly. She doesnt need any shims. I had one part in the power tube in backwards and I needed a new reg piston, but she is in fine working order now.

Thank you all so much!

I really appreciate it.

[athomas]

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