p8ntbal4me
02-25-2007, 01:15 AM
This post is under construction as I can’t get my camera to work right now. The mod is simple to install without reading the instructions. You can do it just by looking at the diagram!
** This alters the condition of your Warp Feed! I assume no responsibility if you wreck your equipment! DO NOT DO THIS if you feel you can not figure it out!!!!**
For those of you that have always wanted to get your Warp Feed (WF) to feed faster here is the mod you have been waiting for!
You’ve heard of the 12volt mod right? You heard of people running 18volts into the Warp Feed but AGD does not recommend it??
How would you like to combine the battery life of the original 12volt mod but triple the speed of your Warp Feed?
Here is a list of instructions on how to modify the Warp Feed shell and board in order to fit this mod.
Parts you are going to need from Radio Shack:
(1) 7812 / 12VDC Voltage Regulator (1amp) (part # 276-1771)
(1) SPST / Reed Relay (rated 0.5A @ 125VAC) (part # 275-232)
Some 24-22 gauge wire (black and red)
Solder (I use .032dia 8.0oz 60/40) (part # 64-009)
Heat Shrink Tubing (comes in a variety pack)
Diagram:
<a href="http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4851788" target="_blank"><img src="http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/2/5501103641.jpg" alt="Click to enlarge."></a>
*If the picture link goes dead, here is a back up* (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4851788)
Procedure:
(1) Take apart your Warp Feed entirely
(2) First thing we are going to do is cut the slot we need for the 12volt regulator to sit in.
The reason I do this mod cut in this fashion is because I wanted to be able to take the board out and still leave the mod in place if ever I had to clean the Warp Feed.
Take the side of the Warp Feed that houses the board an look at the “wire window” for the warp motor. You are going to cut a “L” shaped slot up and to the right corner of the “wire window” so that if you were to rotate the shell 90 degrees clockwise the “wire window” would now look like a lower case “H”.
(3) Next, take your Warp Feed board and look at it. On the left side you will see the words (from bottom to top) “GND”, “VCC”, “MTR1”, “MTR2”. Just above “MTR2” is a solder point, above that solder point is a relay (looks like a little black square with 3 prongs on the bottom of it and 1 on the top; with a white square around it printed on the board)
(4) From the bottom left corner of the white square surrounding the relay, you are going to grind away the board from this corner up Ľ of an inch. You will know you went a Ľ inch when the cut is parallel with the top black portion of the relay. DO NOT CUT ALL THE WAY UP THE BOARD!! You need some material to keep the board in place when you put the Warp Feed Shells back together.
The reason for this slot is to allow all the wires to be run short distances and keep all the parts inside the Warp Feed circuit board housing.
(5) This is the hardest part, the wiring. There really is no way to explain it so I made a diagram on how to do it. The only thing I have found that may differ from results is the last step on soldering the wires to the motor. I have done this to 4 Warp Feeds so far and have found 2 motors wired differently than the others. You want to MAKE SURE you power the Warp Feed up and spin the motor BEFORE soldering the wires! Sometimes the wires are backwards, so double check before soldering to the motor. So basically, follow the wire diagram as follows and I will point out things I did during the install to make it easier.
(6) Once you get to the placing of the regulator, the slot you cut out should allow you to run your wires behind the board and through the groove on the board you cut. DON’T RUN YOUR WIRES OVER THE TOP OF THE BOARD! You need to make sure that NOTHING hinders the band that connects the motor to the Warp Feed gear drive system.
(7) Once you get to the placing of the Reed Relay,… this is pretty simple and takes almost no time. I like to put a piece of heat shrink tubing over the relay to prevent contact from the board, but it’s not required. All the wires for the relay should run up and out the groove you cut in the board. Install the relay over the “VCC” and “MTR1” writing, just above the little capacitor on the board, and run it horizontal, left to right. It should fit perfectly and the cover will screw down snug without pinching wires or jamming the board. * You are not soldering anything to the board, just placing parts into the compartment where the Warp Feed board mounts.*
(9) If you haven’t done so, now would be a good time to install a switch if you haven’t already. Its not required, but I did it because I had the Warp Feed apart and I hate taking my batteries out.
(10) I have some pictures of this mod but my camera is broken so I’m using a crappy one that shows almost no detail, and I cant find the cord that goes to it. I’ll post some as soon as I find the cord or get my good camera fixed!
What I have found to be a success to doing this mod is keep all your wiring long and after you know that it works, shorten as you can after you do the worst of the soldering to the relay and the regulator.
If you want to do the mod but are not sure you can install it correctly, do all the wiring without cutting or modifying the Warp Feed shell. Soldering everything first and trying it out before you hard mount everything inside can save you the pain of working with smaller wires to begin with. I don’t like re-soldering and cutting wires because I made mistakes, so I do everything with a lot of excess wire to begin with, test the whole setup to make sure it works and the Warp Feed spins the correct direction, then I shorten the wires and install. You waste some wire, but it is a way to be sure you do the install correctly.
I'm going to be finishing the instructions in detail over the next week as I get more time to type it all out.
Last thing about this, hope you have a FAST loader! I had a VL on it with an X-board and in less than 2 seconds my tube and Warp Feed drive was begging my VL to feed it. I put a Empire Reloader B2 on it and the combo worked AWESOME!
** This alters the condition of your Warp Feed! I assume no responsibility if you wreck your equipment! DO NOT DO THIS if you feel you can not figure it out!!!!**
For those of you that have always wanted to get your Warp Feed (WF) to feed faster here is the mod you have been waiting for!
You’ve heard of the 12volt mod right? You heard of people running 18volts into the Warp Feed but AGD does not recommend it??
How would you like to combine the battery life of the original 12volt mod but triple the speed of your Warp Feed?
Here is a list of instructions on how to modify the Warp Feed shell and board in order to fit this mod.
Parts you are going to need from Radio Shack:
(1) 7812 / 12VDC Voltage Regulator (1amp) (part # 276-1771)
(1) SPST / Reed Relay (rated 0.5A @ 125VAC) (part # 275-232)
Some 24-22 gauge wire (black and red)
Solder (I use .032dia 8.0oz 60/40) (part # 64-009)
Heat Shrink Tubing (comes in a variety pack)
Diagram:
<a href="http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4851788" target="_blank"><img src="http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/2/5501103641.jpg" alt="Click to enlarge."></a>
*If the picture link goes dead, here is a back up* (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4851788)
Procedure:
(1) Take apart your Warp Feed entirely
(2) First thing we are going to do is cut the slot we need for the 12volt regulator to sit in.
The reason I do this mod cut in this fashion is because I wanted to be able to take the board out and still leave the mod in place if ever I had to clean the Warp Feed.
Take the side of the Warp Feed that houses the board an look at the “wire window” for the warp motor. You are going to cut a “L” shaped slot up and to the right corner of the “wire window” so that if you were to rotate the shell 90 degrees clockwise the “wire window” would now look like a lower case “H”.
(3) Next, take your Warp Feed board and look at it. On the left side you will see the words (from bottom to top) “GND”, “VCC”, “MTR1”, “MTR2”. Just above “MTR2” is a solder point, above that solder point is a relay (looks like a little black square with 3 prongs on the bottom of it and 1 on the top; with a white square around it printed on the board)
(4) From the bottom left corner of the white square surrounding the relay, you are going to grind away the board from this corner up Ľ of an inch. You will know you went a Ľ inch when the cut is parallel with the top black portion of the relay. DO NOT CUT ALL THE WAY UP THE BOARD!! You need some material to keep the board in place when you put the Warp Feed Shells back together.
The reason for this slot is to allow all the wires to be run short distances and keep all the parts inside the Warp Feed circuit board housing.
(5) This is the hardest part, the wiring. There really is no way to explain it so I made a diagram on how to do it. The only thing I have found that may differ from results is the last step on soldering the wires to the motor. I have done this to 4 Warp Feeds so far and have found 2 motors wired differently than the others. You want to MAKE SURE you power the Warp Feed up and spin the motor BEFORE soldering the wires! Sometimes the wires are backwards, so double check before soldering to the motor. So basically, follow the wire diagram as follows and I will point out things I did during the install to make it easier.
(6) Once you get to the placing of the regulator, the slot you cut out should allow you to run your wires behind the board and through the groove on the board you cut. DON’T RUN YOUR WIRES OVER THE TOP OF THE BOARD! You need to make sure that NOTHING hinders the band that connects the motor to the Warp Feed gear drive system.
(7) Once you get to the placing of the Reed Relay,… this is pretty simple and takes almost no time. I like to put a piece of heat shrink tubing over the relay to prevent contact from the board, but it’s not required. All the wires for the relay should run up and out the groove you cut in the board. Install the relay over the “VCC” and “MTR1” writing, just above the little capacitor on the board, and run it horizontal, left to right. It should fit perfectly and the cover will screw down snug without pinching wires or jamming the board. * You are not soldering anything to the board, just placing parts into the compartment where the Warp Feed board mounts.*
(9) If you haven’t done so, now would be a good time to install a switch if you haven’t already. Its not required, but I did it because I had the Warp Feed apart and I hate taking my batteries out.
(10) I have some pictures of this mod but my camera is broken so I’m using a crappy one that shows almost no detail, and I cant find the cord that goes to it. I’ll post some as soon as I find the cord or get my good camera fixed!
What I have found to be a success to doing this mod is keep all your wiring long and after you know that it works, shorten as you can after you do the worst of the soldering to the relay and the regulator.
If you want to do the mod but are not sure you can install it correctly, do all the wiring without cutting or modifying the Warp Feed shell. Soldering everything first and trying it out before you hard mount everything inside can save you the pain of working with smaller wires to begin with. I don’t like re-soldering and cutting wires because I made mistakes, so I do everything with a lot of excess wire to begin with, test the whole setup to make sure it works and the Warp Feed spins the correct direction, then I shorten the wires and install. You waste some wire, but it is a way to be sure you do the install correctly.
I'm going to be finishing the instructions in detail over the next week as I get more time to type it all out.
Last thing about this, hope you have a FAST loader! I had a VL on it with an X-board and in less than 2 seconds my tube and Warp Feed drive was begging my VL to feed it. I put a Empire Reloader B2 on it and the combo worked AWESOME!