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View Full Version : Automag Problem, Plz Help!



sodbrother
02-26-2007, 06:02 PM
I purchased 4 guns as a package deal and 2 of which were Automags. One of them I have not yet been able to fix. It is a Classic mag with a Retro Valve. When I screw the tank on the gun does the hisss, psst, psst and will not charge the valve. To get the gun working I have to remove the barrel and push on the bolt for 2 seconds. The gun powers up, the hiss,psst goes away and the on/off pin engages the trigger. At this point the gun works flawlessly until I remove the tnak. If I remove the tank without pressing the trigger I can screw the tank back in and it works fine. If I remove the tank and press the trigger (pusing the on/off pin in) then the problem repeats itself.

I purchased an O-ring kit from AGD and replaced every o-ring in the gun. I checked, double checked even triple checked that I have replaced all o-rings, and put everything together properly. I have owned several lvl 7 mags and consider myself fairly knowledgable on mags. This one has me stumped.

snoopay700
02-26-2007, 06:07 PM
I purchased 4 guns as a package deal and 2 of which were Automags. One of them I have not yet been able to fix. It is a Classic mag with a Retro Valve. When I screw the tank on the gun does the hisss, psst, psst and will not charge the valve. To get the gun working I have to remove the barrel and push on the bolt for 2 seconds. The gun powers up, the hiss,psst goes away and the on/off pin engages the trigger. At this point the gun works flawlessly until I remove the tnak. If I remove the tank without pressing the trigger I can screw the tank back in and it works fine. If I remove the tank and press the trigger (pusing the on/off pin in) then the problem repeats itself.

I purchased an O-ring kit from AGD and replaced every o-ring in the gun. I checked, double checked even triple checked that I have replaced all o-rings, and put everything together properly. I have owned several lvl 7 mags and consider myself fairly knowledgable on mags. This one has me stumped.
Did you replace the spring? That is what sounds like your problem might be.

sodbrother
02-26-2007, 06:14 PM
Yes, I put in the new spring from the AGD Kit....

snoopay700
02-26-2007, 06:23 PM
Yes, I put in the new spring from the AGD Kit....
Does it have a level ten? Maybe you need a longer spring or something, i'm not sure what it could be if that's not it.

p8ntbal4me
02-26-2007, 06:34 PM
Sounds like the on/off o-rings are not lubed or seated correctly.

If you gas it after you seat the sear back and push on the bolt, I think your describing a power tube issue or that by pushing the bolt back more than it needs to seat you are either:
letting the sear set back on the bolt where it needs to hence the on/off can now seat down into the rail as it normally would or your fixing a bad seal somewhere in the are of the dump chamber (which I am not too familiar with unless I have a diagram in front of me)

I would like to say its the power tube,... but thats just a guess.

sodbrother
02-26-2007, 06:41 PM
Sounds like the on/off o-rings are not lubed or seated correctly.

If you gas it after you seat the sear back and push on the bolt, I think your describing a power tube issue or that by pushing the bolt back more than it needs to seat you are either:
letting the sear set back on the bolt where it needs to hence the on/off can now seat down into the rail as it normally would or your fixing a bad seal somewhere in the are of the dump chamber (which I am not too familiar with unless I have a diagram in front of me)

I would like to say its the power tube,... but thats just a guess.


When I first got the gun I disassembled it and noticed the power tube O-ring was missing, upon further inspection I noticed half of the o-ring had been pressed down into the air chaimber, the other half was gone. I thought it was going to be a simple fix. After replacing it with a new one I had this problem arrise. I thought that maybe I had used the wrong size o-ring since I didnt have the original to compare to, so I took one out of a working lvl 7 mag that I have and this did not fix the problem.

I think the problem is in the on-off valve but I have gone over the on/off several times and cannot see any problems.

flyingpootang
02-26-2007, 07:00 PM
If your using the L7spacers use the next longest one.

sodbrother
02-26-2007, 09:42 PM
If your using the L7spacers use the next longest one.

It has a .225 spacer in it now. I have a level 7 spacer kit and I tried a shorter spacer and a longer spacer, no luck with either one.

Looks like I might have to send it in to AGD

flyingpootang
02-26-2007, 10:12 PM
Are you using a stock AGD bolt? You might want to swap bolts. Also if it hasn't been used in awhile make shure the on/off is not sticking & lube it...

sodbrother
02-26-2007, 10:28 PM
Are you using a stock AGD bolt? You might want to swap bolts. Also if it hasn't been used in awhile make shure the on/off is not sticking & lube it...

I am using a stock bolt and earlier today I swapped the bolt, spring, and bumper, and powertube o-ring from another working mag (lvl 7) with no luck.

I think the problem is in the on/off pin.... I have oiled it several times. I am not sure which o-ring to use. When I take out the on-off valve the O-ring that sits down in the valve is that suppose to be Neopreme (clear yellow) or the Teflon o-ring (hard, white)? I have tried both.....

Whats weird is that after I push on the bolt the gun pressures up and shoots perfectly until I remove the tank, press the trigger then try to air up the gun again.

Coralis
02-27-2007, 12:47 AM
hmmm that sounds like perhaps the rail bushing is gone on the trigger frame oops never mind i reread what you typed ..... try changing the sear with one that works im thinking the sear rod/plunger has been adjusted.

athomas
02-27-2007, 08:41 AM
It definately sounds like an on-off problem.

A retro valve uses a urethane oring for the on-off top. The classic AIR valve uses a teflon oring. If you have an older retro valve it may have a recessed area that the small on-off oring fits into. A newer retro valve is flush on that surface and needs a larger oring to hold the small on-off oring in place, much like the on-off configuration of a classic valve.