Mag refuses to run on co2

[sixtoes1313]

Well today i tried again in vain to have my nightmag run on co2 for a day of playing. I switched out the X valve for a minimag valve, hooked up one of those beefy 8 stage expansion chambers and ran a remote line to my pack. The gun shot fine in my house so i figured i finally succeeded and went out to play the next day. It was about 45* fareignheight today so we went out to play. I got all the way back in the woods and sure enough the valve starts to freeze and its snowing out the barrel. Back to plan B- fall back on the sniper(i dont know what it'd do without that thing) any suggestions for c02 use on mags?

[MANN]

dont use a level 10. put lots of oil in your inlet

[FARMER00]

is your tank a antisiphon? if it is you cant run a remote line because when the tank is verticle it the tube will go right into the liquid co2. thats what it seems like because you shouldnt have problems with a exp chamber and remote

[mag_lover05]

antisiphon tank, plus a femal stab as a bottomline setup.

should work.

[FARMER00]

antisiphon tank, plus a femal stab as a bottomline setup.

should work.
antisiphon with a remote will not work, the tube used to get the gas not liquid will be submersed in liquid co2 when the tank is verticle, thus sucking in liquid direct to the valve

[georgeyew]

antisiphon with a remote will not work, the tube used to get the gas not liquid will be submersed in liquid co2 when the tank is verticle, thus sucking in liquid direct to the valve

Wouldn't the remote line give the liquid enough room to turn into gas before getting to the valve? At least that was what I've always thought.

[neppo1345]

Firm scolding and a spanking?

[cyrus-the-virus]

Firm scolding and a spanking?

I just got attitude problems when I tried that.

[PumpMag]

Mags just don't like CO2 in cold weather. :nono:

In fact CO2 just wreaks havok in cold climates. Too cold, too difficult for the liquid to change to gas state.

At a pump tourney I played more than a year ago, when CO2 was used, everyone's velocity kept spiking because it was too cold. It seemed that the chrono line took forever. :tard:

[Pacifist_Farmer]

I've got a brand new sideline stabilizer I'll sell you, that might help.

[sixtoes1313]

no thanks on the sideline. more than i'd like to spend just until i can get a smaller tank( local proshop can only fill to 2500-3000 psi and it seemd like with such a small fill my 4500 only lasted a few hundred shots. plus all this junk on my gun ruins the look. Ill just keep using the pump until it gets warmer or I get less poor.

[FARMER00]

Wouldn't the remote line give the liquid enough room to turn into gas before getting to the valve? At least that was what I've always thought.
you would think so, but i have 2 tanks on anti siphoned and one normal, and sometime i forget which is which and when i get the antisiphoned one it never works

[punkncat]

The cold weather was part of the problem. Cold CO2 has less pressure, probably not even enough to run the valve. Also the cold will have a tendency to return the gas back to liquid in the lines.

I have known people to (unadvisedly and unsafely) put warm packs around tanks, or to put the tank inside clothing layers to warm it up.

GL

[aqua_scummm]

mags run around 450 psi tops, so it would have to be DAMN cold to not hit that pressure. And since they're regulated, heat packs are less dangerous, you won't go shooting too hot.

[FARMER00]

mags run around 450 psi tops, so it would have to be DAMN cold to not hit that pressure. And since they're regulated, heat packs are less dangerous, you won't go shooting too hot.
im not guru on mags but :eek: :eek: :eek: WWWWWWWWWWWWWWHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAATTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT????????????????? ?????????????????????????? :wow: :wow: :wow: most people here will say about 850 is the best to run them on, thats for a classic valve(which the thread is about) i dont know about the X or rt valves but i assume they are about the same

[punkncat]

mags run around 450 psi tops, so it would have to be DAMN cold to not hit that pressure. And since they're regulated, heat packs are less dangerous, you won't go shooting too hot.


Actually mags run at a considerably higher pressure than that. My Xvalve w/ LX quits a bit over 700PSI. There is a graph/chart somewhere that shows pressure vs. ambient temperature for CO2...too lazy to search for it, but it doesn't take too cool a temp to reduce the pressure a great deal. The problem feeds itself as well, you freeze up the first bit and the cold causes the problem to snowball. No pun intended.

The problem wasn't the marker end with a heat pack. It was the burst disk going while a tank is "in your pocket".

[FARMER00]

Actually mags run at a considerably higher pressure than that. My Xvalve w/ LX quits a bit over 700PSI. There is a graph/chart somewhere that shows pressure vs. ambient temperature for CO2...too lazy to search for it, but it doesn't take too cool a temp to reduce the pressure a great deal. The problem feeds itself as well, you freeze up the first bit and the cold causes the problem to snowball. No pun intended.

The problem wasn't the marker end with a heat pack. It was the burst disk going while a tank is "in your pocket".
http://www.doomlabs.com/science/co2pv.gif
there you go, i was interested myself lol

[Desega]

Buy a nitro tank.

[paintballfiend]

Buy a nitro tank.
QFT

[turbo chicken]

mags run around 450 psi tops, so it would have to be DAMN cold to not hit that pressure. And since they're regulated, heat packs are less dangerous, you won't go shooting too hot.

I'm assuming that your talking after the regulator right??? this is true the out put pressure of the A.I.R. reg is around 350-400 ... but without the inlet pressure into the A.I.R. at 800+ it doesn't recharge fast enough and the gun doesn't operate properly ...

I'd almost venture to say (as im not 100% sure) that because it can't recharge fast enough that the on/off has a hard time resetting at a speed to which the sear resets fast enough to catch the bolt ... and what you get is an on off opened too long keeping the bolt from being able to fully close because of the air escaping down the PT thus the "snow effect"

you could almost say it gets put out of time!!!

Did I get it right guys??

I'm finally converting ... even if I have to get a cheap steely ... i think it will be worth it..since the mag will soon be pump ... a small 48/300 or one of those tiny ones from wevo..

[Shane-O-Mac]

Before you blame the Co2, make sure the gun is in proper working order and has been lubed properly. Make sure you have no tank cover on your Co2 tank also, when you shoot it in cold wheather the pack its in or the cover on it can retain cold next to the tank. The tank works best out in the air, even if it is cold. That way you can get some temperature transfer to help keep the pressure up. When its that cold, you may try the heat packs, try just one first, dont wanna blow a disc while its on your back, or near your face. Oh yea, when its 45* out shoot LESS! 2-3 round bursts and wait 15-30 seconds in between bursts. Or shoot one shot at a time, slowly, and stop after 10 or so for about 30 seconds.

Shane-O

[georgeyew]

I saw a mag like this with a CO2 bottle attached to the ASA in the back. Wouldn't that be a no-no since the CO2 would have no room to expand and get sucked into the valve?

I could not upload a photo so I am including a link of the photo:

http://www.imagetor.com/out.php/t12544_automag.jpg