fillin in the holes

[ProblemKinder]

ok, so those ugly metal brackets they put on the RT pro? well, i took them off. does anyone know where i can get some like, studs or spikes or something to fill in the holes with? just something temporary till i can get a new rail without those screw holes.

[StygShore]

Get some high polish screws to put in there, or you can get set screws to fill in the holes so you cant see the threading.


I always wanted to find small skulls to put on mine, but could never find any with small enough screws on the back




Styg

[sslecyk03]

Get some high polish screws to put in there, or you can get set screws to fill in the holes so you cant see the threading.


I always wanted to find small skulls to put on mine, but could never find any with small enough screws on the back




Styg


Old thread but I have to bump it because I have the same question. I want to fill in the holes on my rt pro rail and need some more ideas...is there anything I can melt into them that would be able to be sanded down flush to the rail? I would like to make it look as if there were never holes there if possible.

[Papa_Smurf]

Old thread but I have to bump it because I have the same question. I want to fill in the holes on my rt pro rail and need some more ideas...is there anything I can melt into them that would be able to be sanded down flush to the rail? I would like to make it look as if there were never holes there if possible.


Either buy a milled rail, have yours milled, or do what is discussed above.

[Zone Drifter]

Home depot has some filler studs, they screw in flush with the rail using a hex wrench.

[Ando]

It might be possible to get the holes filled using a mig/tig whatever welder. I've always wanted to try it but never got around to it.

[sslecyk03]

Either buy a milled rail, have yours milled, or do what is discussed above.

Thanks, but I'm not going to buy a new rail just because I don't like screw holes


Home depot has some filler studs, they screw in flush with the rail using a hex wrench.

Thought about that but you'd still notice the screws because of the hex holes wouldn't you?


I'm looking more along the lines of what Ando is talking about, welding/soldering something in there and sanding it off.

[pinkanese]

Problem with that is the metal from the weld will not be the same as the metal of the rail, so if you get it anno'ed it will look horrible. Now if you have it powder coated or something you will be fine though.

[Ando]

They make different types of aluminum wire for those welders. Not sure what the RT rails are made of (6061 I'm guessing) but I'm sure you can find something close to or the exact metal type.

I don't think it's going to look bad at all. Give it a acid wash and you won't notice it. Gloss black should be fine also.

Edit: Here's some reading.
http://www.thefabricator.com/AluminumWelding/AluminumWelding_Article.cfm?ID=1458
I think doing a splash will work out best

[StygShore]

If you aren't planning on getting a re-anno or anything like that - why not a black rubber plug? or a hardenning black wood filler - the type they use to fill nail holes in picture frames
Barring that, mashing some black crayon in the hole would do the trick, could be removed easy enough, and would be easy to make smooth by just running paper over it.

Styg

Black Epoxy
http://cgi.ebay.com/_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ170366923524


maybe something like this? ( they provide samples )
http://www.stockcap.com/prod_detail.asp?id=120&cat=13

[Papa_Smurf]

You're going to fill a hole by mig welding it full of puddle?! :rofl:
It doesn't work that way...

[sslecyk03]

You're going to fill a hole by mig welding it full of puddle?! :rofl:
It doesn't work that way...

Dude I'm just looking for options at this point, and right now your first response is the most laughable :rolleyes:

Ando and Styg, I appreciate the help guys, the rail is raw so I do plan on getting it re-anoed after I fill the holes. I will look into the aluminum wire, thanks.

[kcombs9]

or find an alum blot of the same metal type and screw it in then cut it off and smooth out so its close to smooth with the rest of the rail... just my though over welding

[DevilMan]

That's what I was going to say KCombs.... get a good idea of what the AL alloy is and try and find bolts that are the same. Screw them in, the cut them off, and sand down smooth.

Since it's already raw, it won't be noticable and may not show too much after anno, IF the alloys match.

DM

[DevilMan]

Or you can find an exact type of alloy in rod form, thread it to fit the holes then do the same thing. That way the metals will match.

DM

[Temo Vryce]

Bondo or Autobody Filler. It's what the stuff was made for.

[MANN]

Just buy a after market rail. RPG or equivalent. After you figure 35.00 for a rt/emag rail, ule milling 35.00, anno 20.00 + numerous shipping charges you can purchase a sexy sleek rail for 100 bucks.

[sslecyk03]

Kcombs and Devilman- I like the idea and it sounds like it would work well, thanks


Mann- I already have a rail that is milled, All I would need is ano, buying another rail for 100 dollars is pretty silly just to avoid screw holes.

[Ando]

Toss some SS spikes in that SOB and let the aggie kids fear you. They also have claws. You can find them on fleabay for next to nothing.

[leloup]

Do the holes go all hte way through? I forget, have to look at mine when I get home. If they go all the way through, could you put in a hex screw from the other side, so all you see is the bottom of the screw?



I kind of like the holes look though....

[OPBN]

The holes do not go all the way through unless you have the rail ULE milled. Personally, I would opt for sending it to Lukes customs and having Luke mill the rail in order to remove the holes. Looks good and lightens the rail.

[sslecyk03]

The holes do not go all the way through unless you have the rail ULE milled. Personally, I would opt for sending it to Lukes customs and having Luke mill the rail in order to remove the holes. Looks good and lightens the rail.

You can't mill the rail to remove the holes, at least not the front ones. The width of the rail would be way too thin at the front.

[OPBN]

Actually, you can:

http://www.lukescustoms.com/page0011.htm

Check RTP1 and 3

[sslecyk03]

Actually, you can:

http://www.lukescustoms.com/page0011.htm

Check RTP1 and 3

I stand corrected. Not the look I'm really going for though. I like the way the rail looks I just want the holes filled.

[XM15]

Welding the holes puts high temps into melting and bonding the metal. This will make the crystal structure of the welds different than the rest of the rail. Its like heat treating only those small areas of the rail. Thats why welds will stick out like a sore thumb when they are anodized even though when its raw it might be almost invisible.

[busby]

Welding the holes puts high temps into melting and bonding the metal. This will make the crystal structure of the welds different than the rest of the rail. Its like heat treating only those small areas of the rail. Thats why welds will stick out like a sore thumb when they are anodized even though when its raw it might be almost invisible.
i second that.i welded a few of them for olinar.bead blasting may make it blend better for anno,allthough i never tried it.i have a tac rail if interested. :D

[sslecyk03]

Just a little follow up:


Bought some metal filler from the local hardware store and filled the holes in with that. Hardened up real nice. It'll be powder coated so the color difference doesn't bother me.

http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/3470/magholes.jpg (http://img203.imageshack.us/i/magholes.jpg/)

[ProblemKinder]

my favorite was the crayon mashing idea :clap: