How to change an air tank reg

[Aslan]

I hope this is not too elementary of a question...but I recently bought a couple (oops, won two on Ebay rather than one :eek: ) tanks and am thinking I might want to change regs from one of my tanks to another. I've never taken a reg off an air tank before and was wondering if there are tricks, warnings, etc... that you guys might be able to offer up.

The reason I want to switch them around is that I have a 92/4500 Crossfire tank with an X-Stream regulator on it. I just bought 2 (68/4500 and 45/4500) tanks (non-crossfire) with Crossfire preset regs. I'd like to put one of the crossfire regs on the Crossfire tank and put the X-Stream on the 68/4500. I'm not very happy with the X-Stream and will probably upgrade it to a flatline when I can get the money scraped together.

I don't know what to do with the 45/4500 tank I won...don't really need 3 4500psi tanks. I can't believe I won two...DOHT! :tard: Once I get both of them and verify they are both working I'll probably just sell the 45/4500 and hopefully break even. I don't know, I'm tempted to unload the 92/4500 because it will need a hydro next year and the two I just bought are good for 2-3 years...but I do like the 92/4500 capacity.

Sorry...ran on...thinking outloud.
Thanks in advance for your help...I really don't want to mess up any of these tanks trying to switch regs around. :ninja:

[Thotograph]

I'm not entirely sure of the process but I bet it involves a strap wrench and ALOT of torque. Those things are on there... GOOD! If you can't figure out how to get it off a scuba or welding supply shop should be able to professionally install it. From alot of my internet "research" I've consistently run into warnings that valves and regs alike should be professionally installed ONLY. However, I cannot confirm nor deny this statement.

So instead of totally wasting your time with this post :cool: I'd like to express some mild interest in the 45/4500 so long as it's the red crossfire reg or rather a high pressure output reg (800psi-ish) . Let me know if and when you'd like to sell it and for how much... I'd like to pick it up with the existing reg on it, which I believe is what you said you were looking to do b/c the other reg is going on the 68.

PM me I guess when you can please. Thanks.

[Ken Majors]

I removed an Xstream regulator from a 68/4500 Nitroduck and replaced it with a maxflo. I was disappointed with the low output of the Xstream as you are.
I used a heat gun to soften the loctite, a bench vise padded with leather, and a strap wrench.
Pad the vise, place the reg (after removing all gauges,nipples, and burst discs) in the vise, heat the valve (gently) and then use the strap wrench on the bottle. You might be able to turn the bottle off by hand if you have kung fu grip. :ninja:
I needed the strap wrench.
The valve is in there good. They use more than enough loctite to seal that sucker, but it is removable. You really have to cinch it down good in the vise though. The leather padding will prevent you from scarring up the reg when it slips in the vise.
My Xstream only put out about 750psi even when cranked all the way up. The nitroduck gauge reads 900psi, but when hooked up to a big set of certified gauges...750 is the best it would do. Don't bother calling Nitroduck and complaining....they just tell you that they are "aware of the situation", but don't offer a solution.
Love the tuffskin tanks, hate the Xstream regulator.

[olinar]

I had my reg replaced when I got my hydro, but on my previous tank I had to buy a new reg and I asked if I could just take the reg home and install it myself. they told me that there is a special seal that has to be heated to break, thats probably why all the torque is needed but Im looking at the extra reg Ive got here and I don't see where a seal would be. I think its just loctited.

anyways, you should be able to but it doesnt sounds easy. Id be interested in the 45/45 without the reg if you wanna do that. lmk

[Thotograph]

That's strange I always thought highly of nitroduck... maybe that's just because they have a cool logo. I'm pretty simple about some things. So what kind of max output can the maxflo hit? I'm eager to get something with adjustable output... I was thinking something from air america b/c a. I don't like SP that much and b. I've heard things about the flat-line. So that doesn't leave much left to choose from, but I could be swayed back towards SP if it's the right choice for an RT. How easy would it be to go between say 400psi for my e-cocker and 900ish psi for my RT with the SP maxflo? Any disassembly required (diff springs) or is it as simple as turning up the juice?

Still, something about having a product hooked up to my RT that's from a company that sent Tom and co. a cease and desist letter for the e-mag just doesn't seem right to me. Call me bitter... I am. To each his own though so please don't take offense. I do appreciate your advice/insight none-the-less.

Peace.

[stonersr26]

Take alook at the Centerflag Dynaflow, they are adjustable from 300 to 1200 psi, have awesome recharge rate, they are light, and they are on sale right now :) Check them out, I love them for mags because of the crazy recharge rate, but I also like it because I can toner the output down for my Viking.

[Ken Majors]

That's strange I always thought highly of nitroduck... maybe that's just because they have a cool logo. I'm pretty simple about some things. So what kind of max output can the maxflo hit? I'm eager to get something with adjustable output... I was thinking something from air america b/c a. I don't like SP that much and b. I've heard things about the flat-line. So that doesn't leave much left to choose from, but I could be swayed back towards SP if it's the right choice for an RT. How easy would it be to go between say 400psi for my e-cocker and 900ish psi for my RT with the SP maxflo? Any disassembly required (diff springs) or is it as simple as turning up the juice?

Still, something about having a product hooked up to my RT that's from a company that sent Tom and co. a cease and desist letter for the e-mag just doesn't seem right to me. Call me bitter... I am. To each his own though so please don't take offense. I do appreciate your advice/insight none-the-less.

Peace.

I agree with your SP opinion whole-heartedly. I can't stand them.
That being said....I use a max-flo. :cry:
It has no problem getting up to 1200psi or down to 450. I use it for just that reason.
I have a LP spring for it that I have never put in. I got the thing new in the box for $75 a couple of years ago. Has always worked well for me. I am not sure what the LP spring would be for other fine adjustment at low pressure. I can go from 0-1200 with the HP spring in. What I really like about it is that it can be adjusted on the go with no tools. Although you should tighten the set screw to prevent creep, I never have, and it doesn't creep.
I bought the Xstream for the adjustability and was not happy. So...I got the maxflo and it works as advertised. I never run it more than 1000psi. 900psi makes my mags very happy with enough bounce to be controllable.

[Thotograph]

Good deal sounds like a quality rig (the max flo). I'll most likely check out the center flag though just because I can't bring myself to going with a sp anything. They do make quality stuff but it's juust not for me. Still, thanks for the input! Very interesting stuff you all have brought forward. I wish palmers made a air rig... I love their stuff, but something tells me they're slightly to oldschool for that. I suppose you could just hook a bottle & valve into a stab but it's not the same.

900 seems to be the right input for RT's. Mine has a 850 set reg on it and it's almost there but just doesn't have quite enough reactivity for rapid fire. I'm gonna look around for that Centerflag system.

How do the respective centerflag and Sp max-flo systems perform with say under 2k in the tank? Do they maintain a consistent input until the pressure is exuasted in the tank? I can notice my velocity and RT trigger go a little soft when it's down below 2k.

[olinar]

I use a Raptor reg, there are some downsides to it but i love mine.

Air America went out of business so if you need parts your sol. unless you find them on ebay.
they don't have standard mounts so it gets a little bulky.
lack of on board output gauge is an annoyance but its workable

they are however simple to use and fairly cheap.

[Dewok82]

Along with what has already been mentioned, here are a few tricks I have heard of and some of which I've used:

Use two 1/8" NPT threaded steel bars. You can probably pick up the required steel bar and die at your local hardware store. Thread one bar in the fill nipple port and the other in the gauge port.

Check out this link: Credit where credit is due (http://www.network54.com/Forum/9013/message/1139807488/Some+New+%26quot%3BTools%26quot%3B)

I have also heard that putting the tank in the fridge overnight could help by causing the metal on the reg to retract. I have not used this one and I don't see how it wouldn't cause the metal tank threads to retract as well.

And finally, you can always send it in to HydroLab. It'll cost you a little (Shipping to WA, $5 for reg removal, and $6.95 for return shipping). Give them a call ahead of time and talk to Geoff. He is a really nice guy and I have had no problems with their services. Link to HydroLab (http://www.hydrotester.com/)

I highly recommend having the proper tools or having it done by someone who knows what they are doing. It is very easy to trash your tank, the reg, or both.

[Aslan]

I hate being such a technical idiot. :mad: I keep seeing people doing cool things with their markers and mods and I can't really do anything. :(

I modified my mask with two computer fans...that's about the limits of my ability and I burnt myself twice with the soldering iron. :mad:

I got my classic valve, installed the Level 10, had to ultimately have it's star punched...why?...because I put the on/off pin in upside down... :tard:

And I'm not even going to get into why I have a nice Minimag with a Retro Valve that I built from scratch with about $400 invested and the valve is somewhere in Tuna-Land hopefully getting a look from his expert peepers. That valve has traveled the entire country from Brad Nestle in Texas, to me in Michigan, to Tunaman in New Jersey...yet to work since being drilled to accept the ULT.

And then there's the cocker I bought to play around with...Brad tried to fix that one twice...and if I ever go to a field where the chrono limit is 85fps, I'm golden. :rolleyes: Otherwise, I have a very fancy paperweight.

So, thanks to you guys, I am NOT going to mess with these tanks. Once I get the two tanks witht the Crossfire regs, I'll just fill em...test em out...then sell one. When it comes time to hydrotest the tank with the X-Stream regulator on it...maybe I'll consider sending two tanks into hydrolab and having them switch the regs and give both tanks fresh hydro tests. Then, I can take the tank with the X-Stream regulator on it and maybe send it to AGD to have the flatline installed. The Dynaflow is a great reg as well, but I've heard great things about both and if I have to compare the two for the same price, I'll trust the AGD product. :cheers:

[Thotograph]

^ All very good advice. Sorry to have led the thread a little off course. I just thought it was kinda relavant since we were considering what regs would be good to swap in place of the nitro duck pos. No worries. Hmm I might go with a better reg upgrade when I have to hydro my PE tank this november. I bet that Centerflag setup comes in reg only... and my PE bottle is very light.

I had a raptor on my old cocker and it was pretty cool. Worked great but the mounting was really wierd. I wish they were still in business, the Apoc was awesome. A friend had one on his RT with a tiny 45cu bottle. Worked great but had to be filled after almost every game. That get's old...

Whatever you do with regaurds to removing the tank just be careful and take your time. The fridge idea sounds kinda wierd... I imagine you could sheer off something if you got it to cold, but it'd have to be reeeeaaallly cold to do that. My guess is the reg and tanks thread would contract in equal proportions and cancel each other out but that's only speculation. Anyone tried this method and had success? Those reg removal tools look nice, but is there such a thing as too much leverage? That'd be nasty if something snapped.

Peace