My pneumag is done... finally!!!

[sTaLa]

It's done, and I'm really happy with the result. The trigger is really light and thanks to the stoppers, its travel is incredibly short.

Here are some pictures of it:
http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/3/8215043284.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5055735)
http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/3/8215043261.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5055736)

And a video. Don't laught at me. It's the first time I ever try to "walk" a trigger.
Click here to watch My-pneumag (http://media.putfile.com/My-pneumag)

Give me your opinion.

[p8ntbal4me]

Just going by the photos on this comment:

Getting your MPA-3 parallel with the top of the frame and as close to the bottom of the sear is key to making that thing faster.

The way it works is fine, and you did a good job!

Other things to try is using a QEV to speed it up some.

Just some ideas.

At anyrate, it works, your ideas are realities, and you can now go smoke some IONs.

:cheers:

[sTaLa]

Thanks for the comment.

At first the actuator was parrallel to the sear but was too high and the pull was too heavy. So I just decided to give an angle to the actuator; that allowed me to use the same holes in my grip frame (lowering the actuator would make it too low and would force me to tap new holes for the set srews).

I thought about using a QEV but I'm not too sure about the benefits of it :confused:.

Thanks anyway :cheers: .
Alex

[Pneumagger]

Thanks for the comment.

At first the actuator was parrallel to the sear but was too high and the pull was too heavy. So I just decided to give an angle to the actuator; that allowed me to use the same holes in my grip frame (lowering the actuator would make it too low and would force me to tap new holes for the set srews).

I thought about using a QEV but I'm not too sure about the benefits of it :confused:.

Thanks anyway :cheers: .
Alex

good thinking, giving the actuator longer travel to take advantage of lower pressure. Just keep an eye on the sear for a bit to make sure you don't have a ton of wear.

Now get off AO, get some, and make us a VID :D

[sTaLa]

Now get off AO, get some, and make us a VID :D
There's already a vid in my first post. But I totally suck at walking a trigger... for the moment:P:P:P.

[p8ntbal4me]

Thanks for the comment.

At first the actuator was parrallel to the sear but was too high and the pull was too heavy. So I just decided to give an angle to the actuator; that allowed me to use the same holes in my grip frame (lowering the actuator would make it too low and would force me to tap new holes for the set srews).

I thought about using a QEV but I'm not too sure about the benefits of it :confused:.

Thanks anyway :cheers: .
Alex


Ask Pneumagger to tell you the REAL advatages for the use of a QEV.

I know what they do in my EP kit,... but as far as manual action, he would have your answer.

[sTaLa]

Ask Pneumagger to tell you the REAL advatages for the use of a QEV.

I know what they do in my EP kit,... but as far as manual action, he would have your answer.
I know it is supposed to raise the ROF by exhausting the air contained between the valve and the actuator. What I think is that since there is less pressure behind the actuator, the emptiness of air allows the piston to come back faster, therefore to cycle faster.

But my first setup (not installed in the frame) was with a QEV and I didn't see any noticeable difference. And since the MSV-2 exhausts the air itself, I thought it was not worth giving me the trouble trying to install the QEV as close as possible to the actuator.

Maybe I'm wrong though.

Alex

[sTaLa]

Just keep an eye on the sear for a bit to make sure you don't have a ton of wear.

You mean wear that would be cause by the piston not hiting the sear perpendicularly?

[p8ntbal4me]

I know it is supposed to raise the ROF by exhausting the air contained between the valve and the actuator. What I think is that since there is less pressure behind the actuator, the emptiness of air allows the piston to come back faster, therefore to cycle faster.

But my first setup (not installed in the frame) was with a QEV and I didn't see any noticeable difference. And since the MSV-2 exhausts the air itself, I thought it was not worth giving me the trouble trying to install the QEV as close as possible to the actuator.

Maybe I'm wrong though.

Alex

The MPA3 has a vet hole to dump the air in the front (if any) of the piston. The QEV is to dump the excess air in the hose between the actuator your using and the MPA3.

From what I hear,... makes a HUGE difference in cycle time.

Basically when your spring in your ram pushes the rod back, it has to do something with that air in the hose between the plunger and the actuator. So it has to fight it a little bit to go back into the home possision.

The QEV is set to open after a 5psi drop is met in the line, so the second the ram hits the sear and goes null for a fraction of a second, it opens the QEV and vets out the air with no back force to the actuator.

[longi]

Got sound but no video! Sounds pretty good though! You might find it easier to walk the trigger if you slacken off the vertically mounted trigger stop. I found that in both the frames i did, if i kept a 2.5mm-3.0mm trigger pull walking became much easier. I did dial out all of the slack from the underside stop though to give a more "modern" feel. I shaved off the rear of the intellitrigger safety off so i could keep the use of the safety. Interesting MPA-3 angle, let us know if you find that you get any wear on the plastic plunger of the MPA-3 due to the angle at which it makes contact with the sear. Which on/off are you using? Try experimenting with a few slighly different setups, as fine makes all the difference! It sounds like your almost there! :D

[Spider-TW]

:clap:

Do you have a sear stop? It looks like you have a little extra travel there. That can help in more ways than a QEV. The MPA-3 will use less air and have less air in it to vent.

Got any LPR pictures yet?

[sTaLa]

Nope, I don't have any sear stop. Since the on/off pin is supposed to be pushed down by the valve (pushing the sear back by the same occasion), I don't see any real advantage of having a sear stop. Plus I don't like taping to many holes in my gun.

[sTaLa]

Here's the LPR picture. I just need to get the battery pack anodized and to change that braided hose for a shorter one.

<a href="http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5225860"><img src="http://img1.putfile.com/thumb/4/10320300252.jpg" alt="Click to enlarge."></a>

[Spider-TW]

Nope, I don't have any sear stop. Since the on/off pin is supposed to be pushed down by the valve (pushing the sear back by the same occasion), I don't see any real advantage of having a sear stop. Plus I don't like taping to many holes in my gun.

Good point. The sear should hit the bottom of the on/off anyway. Plus I don't like tapping any holes in my gun. :)

But sometimes I do. :rolleyes:

[Spider-TW]

It just now hit me... what's the battery pack for???

[sTaLa]

I plugged it with Luke's adaptor to my rail after making two holes.

I want a single battery to power my warp feed and my loader. It is to contain it... but I am not there yet.

[the electrician]

you need to read my posts. somewhere around here I have a lengthy post with all the info on why you need to use a sear stop.

first you don't want the sear slamming into the bottom of the on/off. the sear is harder material and will eventuallty distort the pin hole in the bottom of the on/off causing poor performance. trust me.

also it wastes more air by having the MPA -3 acuator travel farther than need be. this is not much air, but the smaller the amount the better. this way you don't really need a QEV if you do everything you can to reduce air consumption.

it also slows your recharge rate to have the pin travel too far up into the on/off when you don't use a sear stop.

[Spider-TW]

In between the point where the sear releases the bolt and the point that the sear hits the bottom of the on/off, does a sear stop act like a shim in the on/off? Since the on/off pin isn't going all the way up, it's kind of like having a short pin or shims in the on/off (?). I guess the timing is different though.

A short pin would seal later than a longer pin pushed less.

What is the normal end of travel for a mechanical trigger on a mag anyway? The back of the trigger or the bottom of the on/off?