PDA

View Full Version : Problem with Retro Valve



georgeyew
04-07-2007, 08:06 PM
Hey guys, I need help with my Retro Valve. It worked fine a couple of weeks ago and will not fire today. I will give you all the details about the marker so that you will have all the info you need to help me trouble shoot.

It is a Retro Valve that is installed on a Minimag body on a standard rail and sear. I am using an Intelliframe. When gassed up with HPA, the trigger stiffens up. But when I pull the trigger nothing happens. And when I let up, the trigger pushes back against my finger. There are no leaks down the barrel nor when I hold the trigger down. I tried turning the velocity up, but still nothing. As I said before, I used it a couple of weeks ago and was working fine. I purchased this valve used from a guy 2 months ago. Right before I purchased it, it was sent into ADG for a rebuild, so I think that most of the o-rings and seals are new. So before I purchase a new rebuild kit, can someone help me pin-point the problem? Your help is greatly appreciated.

captian pinky
04-07-2007, 09:26 PM
its ur on/off pin just take the valve out and take on off out oil it and replace it should work

georgeyew
04-07-2007, 09:40 PM
Ok, just tried taking apart the On/Off pin and lubbing it. Still the same problem. Pressure on the trigger, but will not fire. Thank you for the suggestion.

flyingpootang
04-07-2007, 11:17 PM
Are you using a fixed high output 800psi tank and do you have more than 900 psi in the tank? Did you add a regulator or any thing new?

georgeyew
04-08-2007, 07:06 AM
Are you using a fixed high output 800psi tank and do you have more than 900 psi in the tank? Did you add a regulator or any thing new?

Yes, I am using HP tank, just got it filled it yesterday. Nothing new....

athomas
04-08-2007, 03:08 PM
Level 10 or level 7 bolt? ULT?

Is the trigger in contact with the trigger rod when the marker is gassed up or is there a tiny gap when the trigger is fully forward?

georgeyew
04-08-2007, 05:38 PM
It has a Level 10. And there is a tiny gap when the trigger is forward.

Coralis
04-08-2007, 07:50 PM
You didnt do anything to gun since the last time you played like take apart the valve and change Orings etc .... if so you might want to try turning up the velocity.

Oops read the original post again... you might try loosening and tightening the grip screws you might have one much tighter than the other putting the bolt in a bind also check to make sure you dont have a debris or a burr in the body that would hang the bolt up.

flyingpootang
04-08-2007, 08:11 PM
Did the rail bushing drop out?

athomas
04-09-2007, 07:50 AM
The only thing I can think of is bolt stick due to a carrier that is too tight. Try retuning your level 10. Use the largest carrier that doesn't leak. Do this without any shims installed. Use the shortest gold spring to start with until you get the gun firing.

georgeyew
04-09-2007, 08:43 AM
Thanks athomas. I will give that a try when I get home tonight. I will post my results.

athomas
04-09-2007, 02:12 PM
Will it fire without a barrel installed? Try that as well. Sometimes, a loose fitting twist lock barrel can cause the bolt to bind.

Spider-TW
04-09-2007, 03:28 PM
'Zone Drifter' had a similar problem a couple of weeks ago. He had changed his on/off pin to a longer, 'RT length' pin. The pin was too long and when the trigger was not pulled, the on/off would not open and air would not go to the valve body.

Perhaps you have tighened the back frame screw down more than before. Try to loosen it a little (should be finger tight). Maybe your orings have set up and become 'that much' too short and have a seal surface 'that much' too long now.

Also, I guess if your trigger rod is touching the trigger (without your finger on it :rolleyes: ) this could happen, but you've checked that one.

georgeyew
04-09-2007, 06:45 PM
Good news. Through all the suggestions, I was able to get the valve fixed. I removed the Level 10 shims and went with a carrier that is 2 sizes bigger (the one in there had no lines, and I installed one with 2 lines). The valve fired without leaks, so I went ahead and put the 2 shims back in and it still shot fine. So now that it is working I am going to leave it well enough alone. I am not even going to pretend that I understand all the inner working of a mag valve, but the next time the same problem happens, I will know what to check for first. Thanks for all your help guys!!

georgeyew
04-24-2007, 08:56 PM
I tried to fire the marker again today and had the same problem with the valve not firing. It turns out that Spider-TW was correct, it was the back frame screw being too tight that caused the valve not to fire. When I hand tightened the screw, the marker would fire fine. But when I made it wrench tight, it would not fire. I guess that the pin was too long when the screw was tightened too much. Thanks again for your help.

athomas
04-25-2007, 05:31 AM
I tried to fire the marker again today and had the same problem with the valve not firing. It turns out that Spider-TW was correct, it was the back frame screw being too tight that caused the valve not to fire. When I hand tightened the screw, the marker would fire fine. But when I made it wrench tight, it would not fire. I guess that the pin was too long when the screw was tightened too much. Thanks again for your help.Actually, when you over tighten the screw, it causes the valve to be misaligned with the body. This causes the level 10 bolt to bind and the valve doesn't have enough force behind it to force it forward.

georgeyew
04-25-2007, 07:59 AM
Athomas, that makes sense. Thanks for the info.

Spider-TW
04-25-2007, 08:49 AM
I have to admit that I have not seen enough mags to see one bound up by the frame screws. It seems odd to me, first that it causes that much misalignment and second that someone would put their mag back together that with that much difference from one time to another.

On the other hand, my first mag didn't have an allen wrench socket in the rear frame screw, so I didn't have the opportunity to try to wrench it down. :)

athomas
04-27-2007, 11:36 AM
I've not seen the problem either, but there has been lots of documented cases that seem to support this theory. The aluminum seems to compress more that the steel bodies and allows the screw to pull the valve down in the front causing it to not be aligned with the breach. This misalignment causes the binding of the bolt. Its just a theory.

georgeyew
04-27-2007, 02:11 PM
Well either way, I know not to tighten it too much or else it will not fire. Thanks for your help guys. Much appreciated.