x valve help

[madcrisis]

i have tried and tried to tune my lvl 10 with no success. i constantly have a leak out the bolt. when i tighten or loosen the thumb screw it goes away but then returns after a few shots. i have removed put back and this and that with shims. i am starting to think it is not the lvl 10 but the valve itself. i want to unscrew the xvalve in half to clean it out. but lookiung closer at the valve i see the two guidelines that are suposed to line up do not line up. its off by like a millimeter. i tried unscrewing it with a vice and had no success.could the valve overtightening be my leak or could it be debris in the valve? or is it not the valve and just my level 10 still not tuned right.

[madcrisis]

any1?

[mostpeople]

1. Pics?

2. You overtightened it? (The x-valve has some VERY tight tolerances, this would be BAD).

3. Start by trying to unscrew the halves, if you cant I would reccomend sending it to AGD for a rebuild. (all X-Valves have three).

4. You've tried the standard LvL 10 tuning techniques?

[flyingpootang]

Do you have a high output tank with more than 1000 psi in it? The L10 carriers work together to seal the carrier o-ring. Use a tighter carrier with the same o-ring. The lines on the valve haflves don't always line up. If you want to seperate it place the valve in a vice between 2 pieces of wood. Use a rubber strapwrench to loosen the other half. Make shure the grip frame & thumb screw is snug 1/4 turn past tight. If you over tighten the grip frame screw you can bend a ULE body. It would help to list your full set up....

[madcrisis]

xvalve, ule body, intelliframe, warp, ule trigger pull.

if i sent it in for a rebuild would it cost any money?

[athomas]

If the bolt is in place and held back by the sear, a leak out the front is always related to the bolt/powertube. Even if the regulator part is not working, it won't leak out the front if everything is properly in place and functional.

a leak out the front could be caused by a level 10 bolt carrier that is not properly sized (too loose), too many level 10 shims, or a missing black oring around the carriers. Another often overlooking piece, is the rail bushing. If the bushing is missing, it will cause the valve to not sit in the proper place and could cause the bolt vent hole to be exposed past the carrier oring.

First step is to check for the presence of the rail bushing. Then remove all the powertube shims. Next, check for the proper carrier size. If even the smallest one leaks, use another oring and try again to get the largest one that doesn't leak.