School me on AIR

[BigTrucker]

I need help on selecting an air systm. I have been using Co2 for years and when i stoped playing about 5 years ago compressed air and Nitrous was just coming out. Looking around and i am seeing 3500 and 4500 tanks. I need to know what the diffrence is, and witch one is right for me. I have two classics one with a level 10 bolt the other with a 7. I need your help on getting up to date. So far you guys have been a real big help on getting me back into the game. :hail: i just wish some of you guys lived a little closer so i wont be the lone mag on the feild :shooting:

[Tao]

I need help on selecting an air systm. I have been using Co2 for years and when i stoped playing about 5 years ago compressed air and Nitrous was just coming out. Looking around and i am seeing 3500 and 4500 tanks. I need to know what the diffrence is, and witch one is right for me. I have two classics one with a level 10 bolt the other with a 7. I need your help on getting up to date. So far you guys have been a real big help on getting me back into the game. :hail: i just wish some of you guys lived a little closer so i wont be the lone mag on the feild :shooting:

Well the only difference between the 3000 and 4500 psi tanks is that the 4500s hold more air for the same volume of tank. CO2 is in a liquid state and evaporates to hold a pressure of 800psi at all times. Lower the pressure and more liquid turns to gas. Compressed air is always in a gas state so every time you shoot the pressure in the tank will go down. This won't affect your velocity however (until the tank gets empty) since these tanks are regulated at 800psi.

The standard for these tanks being regulated at 800psi is because that is what CO2 usually will put out, so you can switch tanks with no problems.

The standard tank to get is a 68 cubic inch 4500psi tank. Depending on how readily you can refil these tanks you may want to get a large volume. 4500tanks are generally lighter since they are exclusively made out of carbon fibre, but I think the 3000psi tanks are made from that as well. Making the tanks out of carbon fibre rather than alluminium allows the tanks to carry 4500psi anyway hence it is a little harder to find the 3000psi tanks.

Usually you can only fill to 3000psi or just a little over so this is the downside to the 4500tanks.

**beware of the low pressure tanks. The new guns these days use low presure input (200-500psi) and some tanks now are regulated alot lower than 800psi. The lower pressure tanks will cause nothing but problems for mags.

[C.J.]

I need help on selecting an air systm. I have been using Co2 for years and when i stoped playing about 5 years ago compressed air and Nitrous was just coming out. Looking around and i am seeing 3500 and 4500 tanks. I need to know what the diffrence is, and witch one is right for me. I have two classics one with a level 10 bolt the other with a 7. I need your help on getting up to date. So far you guys have been a real big help on getting me back into the game. :hail: i just wish some of you guys lived a little closer so i wont be the lone mag on the feild :shooting:

All the higher pressure HPA ("high pressure air") tanks do is hold more air. EG: a 4500psi will hold 50% more air than a 3000psi. Some fields don't have 4500psi fills so you may find yourself using a 4500 as a 3000 a lot of time. I know I did.

I went back to CO2 from a 68/4500 (68-cubic inch, 4500psi) tank because I wanted a light, small tank that would give a lot of shots. CO2 holds more shots for a given weight tank than HPA will.

I'm new to 'mags myself but I understand the Classic Valve is great on CO2 if you use an anti-siphon tube and a PPS Stabilizer.

BTW: HPA tanks do NOT generally output at their rated pressure (say, 3000psi). The vast majority have built in regulators that output at a "CO2 comparable" pressure like 700psi. The gauge on the regulator indicates the remaining pressure in the tank - kind of a "fuel gauge" if you will.

Also note some tanks have adjustable regulators, output at higher or lower pressure - but most that you see on a store shelf such as the PMI Pure Energy 68/4500 that I owned output around 700psi and can't be adjusted. If you want to get experimental, you might consider a system that lets you adjust pressure.

Hope this helps!

[Chaos_Theory!]

To add to what Tao said, LP tanks suck and are a waste of money. Just about ANY/EVERY gun can run on a HP tank as long as your using an adjustable regulator on the gun. On the other hand LP tanks CANNOT be used on any gun. Dont let some moron make you think LP tanks are better. They are not easier on your equipment or anythign like that.

[BigTrucker]

When i switch do i need to make any mods to my mags?? Or can i just plug and play? One of my mags has a Palmer Stabilizer on it to help with the Co2. Will i still need that or can i keep it on the help stabilize the air? :cool:

[Chaos_Theory!]

Plug N' Play, no mods at all are needed. You can even keep the stabalizer on the gun.

[Tao]

When i switch do i need to make any mods to my mags?? Or can i just plug and play? One of my mags has a Palmer Stabilizer on it to help with the Co2. Will i still need that or can i keep it on the help stabilize the air? :cool:

No mods needed. HPA is meant to be a direct replacement for CO2, and infact make it unecessary for modifications which are meant to prevent CO2 problems. Volumizers/expansion chanbers and not necesarry etc.

You may find that if you switch to HPA that your gun will work better without the stabalizer.

Mags tend not to work well with an extra regulator.

[Railgun]

My Classic works fine on an HP air tank without the need for a second reg. The reg in the back block does the work to set the velocity.

If you're buying used check on the hydro date. It's around $30 to $40 to re-hydro so if it's close to the end of the hydro period then factor that into the price. Older fiber tanks are on a 3 year cycle and new fiber tanks are on a 5 year cycle between hydros.

And fiber tanks are actually thin wall aluminium with fiber (glass or carbon or a mixture) layed over the thin wall.

[RA1N1ER]

Hey BigT....i live a little closer than some.....BayArea......

[BigTrucker]

thanks to all you guys who left messages. you all helped me alot and to understand HPA and :D :shooting: getting up to speed. maybe i'll see some of you on the feild

[punkncat]

To add to what Tao said, LP tanks suck and are a waste of money. Just about ANY/EVERY gun can run on a HP tank as long as your using an adjustable regulator on the gun. On the other hand LP tanks CANNOT be used on any gun. Dont let some moron make you think LP tanks are better. They are not easier on your equipment or anythign like that.

...?

I use a good LP tank on many of my extemely low pressure markers, like Angel, Mini, even the Impy's I have.
The Angel and Mini manufacturer's both RECOMMEND the use of an LP tank.

I own and use both LP and HP tanks for specific equipment. I would never consider an LP tank a waste of money so long as you have a marker that will be able to use it. ...Mags can not.

[Tao]

...?

I use a good LP tank on many of my extemely low pressure markers, like Angel, Mini, even the Impy's I have.
The Angel and Mini manufacturer's both RECOMMEND the use of an LP tank.

I own and use both LP and HP tanks for specific equipment. I would never consider an LP tank a waste of money so long as you have a marker that will be able to use it. ...Mags can not.

Well how do those markers perform with a high pressure tank? Is there any imporvement going from high pressure to low pressure preset tanks with them?

[ThePixelGuru]

Sorry if I missed it, but I don't think it's been posted yet.

AGD recommends an output of 850psi from your HPA tank. Most companies list output pressures for their regulators, so get at least an 800psi output or 850psi if you can.