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View Full Version : e-mag wont fire in mech mode



Geronimo7
05-26-2007, 05:57 PM
here is the deal, just got some e-mag lowers for my mag
i have x-valve with level ten, red spring, 1.5 carrier
removed ule trigger from x valve and put the stock on off back in
with a emag pin and quad oring i got from tuna
made sure every thing was well lubed and bolted my ule body and xvalve on
my new lowers. i got one click out of the valve and then nothing the sear pin barely sticks out of the frame behind the trigger. tank is a high press. crossfire.
every time i de-gass, in order to remove the valve from the body i have to unscrew the body from the frame because the pin is not being pushed back up. i have also tried turning the velocity up as well, all the way up as a matter of fact. needless to say i am lost now.
if i missed something let me know cause i just dont know what to try next. oh yeah
saftey is off.

Russ
05-26-2007, 07:42 PM
does the gun fire in electro mode?


measure the length of the trigger rod. It should be 2.125"

the plunger should measure 3.005". The plunger should also move freely in the solenoid ('noid), that is, no binding at all, and be very smooth

Geronimo7
05-26-2007, 09:06 PM
So far the gun will not fire in either mode. I do not have access to calipers to measure the rod and pin, perhaps after the weekend I will. I also have no reason to think those would have moved, from what I understand the lowers worked fine before they were mine. With the valve out I can move the sear easily, the rod seems to slide up and down easily as well.

Russ
05-26-2007, 09:45 PM
So far the gun will not fire in either mode. I do not have access to calipers to measure the rod and pin, perhaps after the weekend I will. I also have no reason to think those would have moved, from what I understand the lowers worked fine before they were mine. With the valve out I can move the sear easily, the rod seems to slide up and down easily as well.


OK, so the gun won't fire in ANY mode, glad we got that squared away....

are you sure the valve is getting air? Can you hear the valve "click" when you gas it up?

Turning the velocity up all the way should have vented air out the back of the velocity adjustment hole. did that happen? see above.

Did you read the level 10 info in the resources tab above? You should set it as per the instructions.

Geronimo7
05-26-2007, 10:04 PM
So far every time i gas it up i get one "click" but thats it. Then nothing, thats when I try uping the velocity, I can crank it till it stops, no air vents out the back. As far as the level 10
goes, I've set up a couple of them for friends, pretty sure I know what I'm doing there.
But you are right it does seem as if the valve doesn't get enough air.

athomas
05-28-2007, 02:17 PM
Check that the sear is clearing the bolt. It appears that you are suffering from a maladjusted sear assembly or have level 10 bolt stick. Check your level 10 first. Go to the largest carrier that does not leak. Do this without any shims installed. If you can get the bolt siding freely on the bolt stem without much effort then it is good to go. Then, you can check to see if the sear is being pushed far enough to clear the bolt by inserting the valve assembly into the body without a bolt spring. Don't air the gun up for this part. Pull the trigger in manual mode and see if you can allow the bolt to slide forward. If not, then you need to adjust your trigger. If the level 10 is still making it difficult to move the bolt, take the carrier out for this part. Make sure the solenoid plunger isn't bottoming out, thus preventing a full stroke.

Geronimo7
05-29-2007, 09:48 AM
Check that the sear is clearing the bolt. It appears that you are suffering from a maladjusted sear assembly or have level 10 bolt stick. Check your level 10 first. Go to the largest carrier that does not leak. Do this without any shims installed. If you can get the bolt siding freely on the bolt stem without much effort then it is good to go. Then, you can check to see if the sear is being pushed far enough to clear the bolt by inserting the valve assembly into the body without a bolt spring. Don't air the gun up for this part. Pull the trigger in manual mode and see if you can allow the bolt to slide forward. If not, then you need to adjust your trigger. If the level 10 is still making it difficult to move the bolt, take the carrier out for this part. Make sure the solenoid plunger isn't bottoming out, thus preventing a full stroke.


Did as you suggested, removed spring and carrier. The bolt did move forward when i pulled the trigger. I am bringing a set of calipers home tonight to check the trigger rod and plunger
measurments. Going off of memory the rod seemed to stick out further on my old intelliframe then it does on these emag lowers, almost touching the trigger on the intelliframe, and it barely peeks out of the frame on the emag frame (of course this is gassed up). Hopefully this is where my problem lies and is an easy fix. I will post the measurements later.

athomas
05-29-2007, 01:57 PM
It sounds like your trigger rod is ok if it is allowing the sear to go back far enough to clear the bolt.

Geronimo7
05-29-2007, 06:17 PM
does the gun fire in electro mode?


measure the length of the trigger rod. It should be 2.125"

the plunger should measure 3.005". The plunger should also move freely in the solenoid ('noid), that is, no binding at all, and be very smooth


O.K the tirgger rod measures 2.10 and the plunger 3.001. Is this close enough or should i adjust.

Also exactly where does this quad oring go. Does it take the place of the smaller of the 2 orings that are in the valve or do I unscrew the on/off and put it in there? Right now it is in the valve inside the larger oring.

Coralis
05-29-2007, 06:39 PM
The quad oring takes place of the two orings that are inserted into the valve prior to putting in the on/off assembly (on/off valve and pin). I cant answer your question on plunger length as i dont know


From the stickied post : tolerance specs for emag rt pro and ult
E-Mag:

On/Off pin: .712" w/ brass top and double o-ring top.
.725" w/ aluminum top and single o-ring top.

Trigger Rod: 2.125"

Solenoid Plunger Rod: 3.005"

Geronimo7
05-29-2007, 06:43 PM
Ahhhh I see :wow: maybe i'll change that now then :tard:

Russ
05-29-2007, 06:59 PM
Geronimo7,

Look at the the Emag exploded view (pg 3) at the AGD website

http://www.airgun.com/downloads/emagexploded.pdf

Geronimo7
05-29-2007, 07:16 PM
Ya I was checking that out too. Guess I wasn't payin close enough attention to the picture.
Those measurments close enough? (don,t know how "accurate" my calipers are)

Now I have a small carrier leak....so gonna go down a carrier and see if I can get everything to seal up. Still cant get it to "click" yet.

Geronimo7
05-29-2007, 07:19 PM
:rolleyes: I know ya all are thinkin use the bleepin search button.

Coralis
05-29-2007, 07:48 PM
have you tried taking out the regulator pin and looking for an obstruction prevent sufficient air flow to the valve.

Geronimo7
05-29-2007, 08:01 PM
Thats excatly what I am doing right now :) then I am gonna run my air strainght to the valve.

I think my booboo was the extra oring :confused:

Russ
05-29-2007, 08:08 PM
...then I am gonna run my air strainght to the valve.



So...how are you running the air now?

Geronimo7
05-29-2007, 08:25 PM
yeah thats another funny thing too.
right now i got about 2k on a 45/45 and about 6k on a 72/3000 (been usin the 45/45)

just got back to it had to stop for a bit and feed my halfling :spit_take

tearing everything down right now got enough air/piant and parts to rebuild a xvalve
something is gonna shoot out this barrel tonight :D

MANN
05-29-2007, 08:33 PM
use the gold spring, and adjust the velocity. (Sorry if this has already been suggested). I know its simple, but I know Ive done it a time or 3

Geronimo7
05-29-2007, 10:34 PM
:( well back to square one. :mad:

It seems as if I have failed, changed all the orings i could, cleaned everything i can clean, measured things i never had to measure before :p i still have the same problem.

On the bright side, after taking apart my new emag :clap: 15+ times, i got used to looking at unfamilar parts (unlike my old easy to get along with intelli.)

I seemed to have spotted just the smallest little bend in the threaded rod that attaches the plunger to the sear. :eek: I think now is the time for profesionals (maybe), Never the less,
I wanna thank everyone for there help on this. But I believe the answer to this problem is a new sear. Just gotta find the best way to get one, hmmm. I know there's an answer out there for me.

AO you are a great bunch of people :hail:

The dead emag will rise again :shooting:

flyingpootang
05-29-2007, 10:50 PM
Just straighten out the plunger rod. That can be the cause of all your problems if your plunger is hanging up. The reason it bends is when you forget to remove the axcle pin first before seperating the railfrom the lowers.

Geronimo7
05-29-2007, 11:20 PM
Is it really that simple? What do you suggest? just bend it with some pliers or something.
I can totatly see how it could bend a tad if you are not careful. Just lookin for straight huh?

I was looking at this- [The Emag sear assembly requires factory adjustment]

I've done everything else might as well try it. Gonna have to wait till tomm. to air anything back up. My wife would kill me if I woke my little dude. :cuss: She might even hurt my baby
:shooting:

Geronimo7
05-31-2007, 10:24 AM
:D straightened out the plunger rod a tad and everything seemed to move easier,
gassed her up and whala. She's firing like a champ now. All you're guys' help did the
trick. :dance:

Thanks again, Geronimo7 :cheers: