please help

[joelbird]

I am running out of ideas. I have owned an automag for a long time, classic valve run on CO2. now spend 6 months building an ULE mag with an xvavle ULT and Level 10. Get it all together buy a compressed tank and go to fire it the first time ever. nothing the bolt never goes forward. the air moves the sear buy the trigger never lets the bolt go forward. So i start with moving the sear length nothing. then I have this whloe new valve that came used with all these spacer and no directions. So i have no clue what to work with first. no matter how many shims the ULT has it never leaks, so i figure i have to do something with the level 10.

The gun is a ule body, shadow rail, chimera frame, and a 4500 psi HP tank. so Please help me, i have stared at this gun for months and now realize that i can't figure it out. thanks for looking Joel

[Russ]

turn up the velocity

[joelbird]

nothing has changed

[Tao]

Turn up the velocity some more or try a weaker bolt spring.

[joelbird]

velocity turned up and the weaskest bolt and i get a small air leak down the barrel still no bolt movement, took apart and oiled and still no movement, i have around 3500 psi in my tank left. anything else i can try?

[pierce]

What is the output of your tank? check your L10 carrier size.

[joelbird]

850 psi output, now for the carriers i have no clue how to identify them. i have a bag of them and shims no idea where to start.

[pierce]

Look in the L10 guide in these forums. The carriers start with (no marks) then (1 dot) then (1 grove) then (1dot and 1 grove) then (2 groves) and so on. The key is to use the same carrier o-ring when you change the carrier size. Your tank is fine.

[pierce]

http://youtube.com/watch?v=V0mvr30jKhw Try this link if it works

[Geronimo7]

850 psi output, now for the carriers i have no clue how to identify them. i have a bag of them and shims no idea where to start.


0 lines on a carrier = 0, 1 line on a carrier=1, 1 line and 1 dot(on the other end)=1.5
2 lines=2, 2 lines 1 dot=2.5 and so on

start with a 2 (2 lines no dots) fire a bunch of rounds see if the leak stops, if not maybe go down a half to 1.5

it may take a tank or 2 or 3 to get it right

btw, dont mess with the trigger rod if you moved it you should put it back.

[joelbird]

ok so the video was a huge help, I now understand the markings and how to properly assemble the level 10. i have the the 2 line carrier in it. and there is still the problem of the bolt not moving at all. the sear is where it needs to be. but the bolt does not move. I have the velocity the whole way up, i have tried all three spring and get nothing. I am stumped.

[Geronimo7]

silly question but the saftey, is it off

[pierce]

Check the clearace of the trigger, and look at your on/off assam.

[joelbird]

YES the safety is off, trigger clearance in the sense of how?

[Geronimo7]

trigger clearance in the sense of how?

if you happen have calipers i think it should measure 1.985 inches


but no air leaks right now with the 2 carrier, and when you turn on your air source you hear the "click" or no

[joelbird]

if you happen have calipers i think it should measure 1.985 inches


but no air leaks right now with the 2 carrier, and when you turn on your air source you hear the "click" or no

click if you mean the sear hitting the trigger, the sear pushes the trigger and the trigger can be pulled but there is no air leaking and no bolt moving.. something has to be up with the way the sear releases the bolt

[Geronimo7]

it maybe a on/off issue

you said you have a ULT, check that.. take it out, the two halves unscrew, check and make sure the on/off pin isn't bent, even the smallest bend will mess things up

[joelbird]

straight and I have 4 shims in it right now

[Geronimo7]

boy I wish I had something else for ya. you said earlier you took it apart and oiled it.
did you mean the level 10 or the valve? if you meant the valve never mind, if not maybe unscrew the two valve halves and take out the velocity nut to make sure nothing got in there to restrict air flow. right now thats all i got bud, hope ya can get it figured out, there are lots of smart people here so dont give up :)

[joelbird]

thanks for all the input, but i guess i will be sending it out. i am clueless why it won't even fire once.

[Russ]

Have you read the tech info posted at the AGD website?

de-bugging procedure (http://www.airgun.com/debug.shtml)

[joelbird]

Have you read the tech info posted at the AGD website?

de-bugging procedure (http://www.airgun.com/debug.shtml)

1 tank has air
2 regulator nut has been turn in and out and nothing changed at any point
3 air makes it to valve
4 bolt sticking? bolt has been oiled, every spring tried but bolt has never moved yet
5 trigger moves with tank on
6 proper gap? that maybe the problem i did mess with the sear being mad at it and I am not 100% it is returned to the right rod length, what is the proper length from the tip to where it threads in?

thanks for the help so far

[Russ]

if you happen have calipers i think it should measure 1.985 inches


but no air leaks right now with the 2 carrier, and when you turn on your air source you hear the "click" or no


look!

and at some point it would be useful to describe how your LX is set up...the more detailed the ddescription, the easier it is for "us" to help you

[joelbird]

look!
ok, i will call my engineer friend who has one and see if i can barrow it because it just so happens i do not have one. will post as soon as i find out.

level ten setup, 2 lines 2 shims and weakest spring, ult 4 shims, and xvalve velocity cranked up, about 2800 psi still in the tank

[joelbird]

fixed!!!! here is the deal the sear was the right length, but the rear rod connects to the sear with that small pin goes through the center piece of the sear. well the two outer pieces were Separated a little out about a 1/16 of an inch, and the sear rod from the trigger was bent enough to bind the sear to the inside of the ule body. the one thing about the whole set up i was bothered by was the shadow rail has a lot of play were the sear sits. So the slightest problem of lining the assembly up is multiplied. so in my short temper of playing with the sear and trigger did not double check anything and may have bent the the assembly or not noticed it being i got it used.
When calling local fields looking for a tech no one had one and they all asked " those are old why bother with them?" I say they are like the muscle cars of the 60's and 70's, they need love every once in awhile but still admired but lots and still kick ***. So thanks to everyone for giving me a crash course in automag trouble shooting. I have and now will continue to be an automag Enthusiast.

[Geronimo7]

YAY :clap: now go out and rip em up with your "old why should you bother mag"
:shooting: