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View Full Version : Xvalve Hyperframe Morlock problems



pump
08-03-2007, 01:02 AM
i have this wonderful xvalve and its really light...wow

but! it doesnt not fire, i upped the dwell to over 15ms, to no avail,

the capacitor is soldered correctly....i hope,
i have the noid all the way back,

it does have the RT on off, is the ULT needed?

mostpeople
08-03-2007, 01:34 AM
I beleive so... I didnt think the solenoid had the power on those things to push the RT on off..

nevtangle
08-03-2007, 11:56 AM
Yeah, you'll definatley need the ult. It takes too much force to activate the sear w/ the rt on/off. Get the ult, fill it w/ shims and watch it fly.

pump
08-03-2007, 02:10 PM
wow so the x valves have that much more pressure than a normal mag?

because i have a hyperframe and a booyah on off in a normal mag and the booyah frame can trip that sear and on off very easy


well i got the ULT comming

also the wiring of the noid was pretty shoddy im gonna redo that see how that might contribute to the problem

athomas
08-03-2007, 03:16 PM
ULT works better than the standard on-off. The xvalve uses the same operating pressure as the air valve. I suspect you are having other issues.

pump
08-03-2007, 03:43 PM
yeah i was thinking that

ima try the morlocked hyperframe in 2 classic mags.....see if they fire ok

if not then ill know its the wiring and board




also keep thinking its the on off force......maybe the RT in an x valve is harder than a hyperframe in an A.I.R. valve

pump
08-03-2007, 03:55 PM
oh major thing

the angled sides of the frame have not been milled off

i would think the lower push would make for an easier time to move the sear...maybe not!

nevtangle
08-03-2007, 04:28 PM
You can check and see if the frame is working by taking it off the gun and pushing the noid plunger leg with something similar to how the sear would reset it and see if it clicks. Even better, take the body and valve off the rail and push the sear as if the on/off pin would and pull the trigger.

When I rewired mine the noid wires has a red coating on them that was underneath the insulation. I had to remove this with some abrasive to get to copper. The solder wouldn't stick to the red coating. Maybe this is causing you problem? Test to see if it'll fire like I mentioned above. ^^

First thing is to verify that it'll fire. If it does, then your problem is most likely the on/off.

I've only used one on an xvalve but from what I understand, the reason they came out with the centerflag on/off was to reduce the force needed to trip the sear in the classic valves. The rt on/off pin has more surface area than the ult and the rush of unregulated air pushes back on it making it harder for that little noid to trip the sear.

flyingpootang
08-03-2007, 04:32 PM
oh major thing

the angled sides of the frame have not been milled off

i would think the lower push would make for an easier time to move the sear...maybe not!

Ya gotta mill off the wings or the sear will not align properly....

nevtangle
08-03-2007, 06:16 PM
Ya gotta mill off the wings or the sear will not align properly....
I didn't see that before...

Yeah, if you're using an rt stlye rail you gotta get those milled off... If you're using a classic style rail then no.

pump
08-03-2007, 08:12 PM
hey i resoldered the noid and it worked.....so i tired to lower the dwell...from 6 down some and it didnt work....then raised it back to 6 no mas


i think ill mill off the wings later

pump
08-03-2007, 10:02 PM
ok well i swapped rails to an old style v rail...it works!!!!

you guys were right even with the RT on off it work but the rail needs to match the frame

bummer.....i hate milling old stuff