emag troubles

[RangerX]

Well a little background first i guess. Bought a longbow, then I bought e-mag lowers off of a-tach, bought another x-valve and a warp left. Both valves have the lvl10 set up correctly. the lowers have 4.01 installed (currently on the lookout for an x-mod programmer).

My problem is I cant seem to get the sustained high ROF that everyone else seems to get with the emag lowers. I'm trying to figure out if its a board,noid or sear rod problem.

using it on full electronic mode at the local PB field I can get a string of about 13bps for a sec or 2 then the sear sticks. It wont release the bolt and it wont return. If I flick the selector to manual fire the stuck shot and then return it to electric i'll be able to rip off another string and then the same thing will happen again. Playing around with it at home It almost seems like the sear rod is too far out. In electric mode its almost right behind the trigger.

I've tried adjusting the trigger magnet, It helped slightly.

I use a empire fuel 71/45 preset

Thats all the information I can think of at the moment. The guns at work right now while I make a new mounting bracket for my q-loader. If pictures are needed I'll bring it home tomorrow

Any help is appreciated thanks

[JRingold]

I found this site most helpful...

http://www.automagsuk.com/emagandxmag.html



Marker Wont Cycle at All or Wont Cycle Reliably -

First things first, whether you are running a level 7 or 10 set-up, check those sections first. Next step is to make sure you have a full tank , your velocity is turned up enough, and the marker is oiled. If it seems you cant get your velocity high enough, your reg spring pack may be shot or binding(try turning it up all the way and then turning it back out). Make sure your rail bushing is installed. If the trigger rod is pressurizing, check the rod for the proper 1/16" gap behind the trigger when the trigger is forward(and/or check for proper trigger(2.125")/plunger(3.008") rod length). A simple mistake is a field strip screw that is too tight or too loose (especially if the valve is too reactive), just past hand tight is fine.

As far as the rest of the back side of the valve, your reg valve pin's spring pack may be shot, or there may be debris inside the valve. To cover the on/off area, check to see that your on/off pin is not bent or has any burrs. Make sure the quad o'ring is installed and ok. The inner assembly o'ring may have collected dirt, check it by unscrewing the the assembly apart. If you recently installed a new valve, on/off, or on/off pin, your pin may be too long or short(should be .712").

To check the front side of the valve, look for debris between the powertube and bolt. As far as the rest of the marker, if you have installed grips or replaced lost grip screws, check that the grip screws are not touching the trigger rod when it moves. Make sure the sear axle pin is not overly tightened. I've personally seen markers that are so dirty between parts that they are out of tolerance, another point is that if you just had any of your marker parts painted, powdercoated, or bead blasted, you now know that it could also effect tolerance(if possible, remove the paint/powdercoating in between the frame/rail and between the rail/body. Aside from all this, you might have a bent rail or body(all it takes is a few thousands), send it to me or the factory to figure out.


There's a lot more information there as well...

[RangerX]

Yes there Is quite a bit of information there. I'll start with the trigger pull adjustment he has there.

[flyingpootang]

Did you lower your debounce to 1 or 2?

[RangerX]

yeah, I tried different debounce settings. I think something happened to the board though cause the debounce setting disappeared...

[BigEvil]

I suspect you have the wrong on/off pin. There is a specific one for Emags that are different length than the mech RTs.

[athomas]

Yes, if you put emag lowers on your gun without changing the on-off pin, it is probably too long. You will need the shorter .712" pin.

[RangerX]

Sorry I should have added that I did purchase the emag on/off assembly for the 2nd x-valve. I dont have any air right now but I should have some tomorow

*edit* Going through the trigger setup at automags UK Its not registering any pulls after the first with the trigger pressed to the right.

I was meaning to bring my caliper home today to check the length of a couple things but I forgot. I'll check at work tomorow

Also Got debounce back.... Don't ask

[athomas]

If the trigger pull fails to register when the trigger is pushed one way or the other, usually means the trigger magnet is out of range and should be readjusted.

[RangerX]

got the trigger pull working correctly. I think the H.E.S was just out of range, I unscrewed the H.E.S mounting screw and then screwed it back in till the trigger worked in all positions.

When I get air tomorrow I'll update on the reliability

[RangerX]

ok I got air today. Mag wont fire at all now. tried both valves, tried cranking the velocity to the max. tried the stock on/off

*edit* also the on off pin doesnt go back up into the valve body after the marker is degassed and the trigger is pulled. trying to remove the xvalve with either the emag/stock on/off in the valve is not possible unless I unbolt the body from the frame and press it in by hand. I imagine this is the culprit behind the above problem

[RangerX]

I think I fixed my problems. started tinkering with the sear assembly.

When the marker was aired up the trigger rod was almost right up against the trigger. So I turned that in the required distance. while I had the assembly out of the marker I noticed the "C" clip on the noid plunger had turned from where I saw it before and found the noid plunger was turning quite easily in the sear frame.

I suspect through the vibration of repeated shots it got to the point where it would only reliably work for a few shots. I removed it, cleaned it and applied loctite to the sear end of the adjusting rod. Then adjusted the plunger to the rod to the correct length

Thanks for the help all. pointing me towards the automags UK site is what really helped. i remembered to bring home my digital caliper and checked the sear assembly on what they said there