Barells for an RT

[Dubaimag]

I've go an Rt Classic, ULE mainbody and a Dye UL barell (autococker threaded)
Think the barell is .688 ..anyway up until now all has been fine ..but my local field has just got a new batch of paint, which seems so small ... it just falls outa the barell. Accuracy has gone way out.
I've been wondering about the smart parts freak kits, or similar kits from powerlyte (theory is , it should solve my problems once and for all)
Anyone got experience of theses kits .. are they worth it ?
Also I've found a on-line store that sells the smart parts freak kits .. and charges extra $10 for the "Automag RT" .. but the Autococker /spyder/ etc etc types .. no extra charge.
Is there a difference I should know about ?
I thought I could just order a kit with autococker thread ?
Kinda puzzled ..!!!
As I live about 10,000 miles from nearest pro-shop .. i need to get on -line ordering right first time ...!

Thanks for any help...

[Anjin3515]

I've go an Rt Classic, ULE mainbody and a Dye UL barell (autococker threaded)
Think the barell is .688 ..anyway up until now all has been fine ..but my local field has just got a new batch of paint, which seems so small ... it just falls outa the barell. Accuracy has gone way out.
I've been wondering about the smart parts freak kits, or similar kits from powerlyte (theory is , it should solve my problems once and for all)
Anyone got experience of theses kits .. are they worth it ?
Also I've found a on-line store that sells the smart parts freak kits .. and charges extra $10 for the "Automag RT" .. but the Autococker /spyder/ etc etc types .. no extra charge.
Is there a difference I should know about ?
I thought I could just order a kit with autococker thread ?
Kinda puzzled ..!!!
As I live about 10,000 miles from nearest pro-shop .. i need to get on -line ordering right first time ...!

Thanks for any help...


you may want to look into a Palmer Brass Barrel...its not a kit....but due to its elliptical barrel....it does do well with many sizes of paint....Ive heard great things about them.

[sdlm_]

Automag barrels are for automags with a twist lock system. since you have ule you need to order cocker barrels, automag barrels will not fit, they don't even have threads.

[questionful]

Buy Autococker barrels only.

Simple answers lead to less f***-ups. :)

[Argelmcgee]

I have a brass barrel, the standard one comes with .690 bore, which translates to "nothing special" accuracy. They have an option for .685 bore, which I think is where the amazing tales of accuracy come from.

I'm going to be getting a Hammerhead kit, I'll tell you all how that goes coupled with a mag.

Right now, what I can recommend out of experience are the Lapco Single-piece barrels. They run about $55 each, or $170 for all 3 (.684, .687, .689 in a nice case) and they are extremely high quality aluminum, good looking barrels. I have the Snapshot, but its actually less accurate than the correctly sized single-pieces, albeit a bit quieter.

[JRingold]

I've used the J&J EDGE kit and the Evil Pipe Kit. I love the Pipe. I prefer something that has different sized backs rather than the inserts of the freak. The Lapco sized one-piece barrels are nice as well.

With a Freak Kit you can just change the back and the inserts and fronts will work if you change markers, to Spyder, or Matrix or Intimidator at some time in the future...

There are a lot of Freak Kits out there. For an RT-Pro with ULE mainbody, you need Cocker threads.