Rail Milling question

[LK-13]

looking at different Rails some from AGD others After Market,
i have noticed that some Rails have most of the internal material milled away
while others are little more than an aluminum bar with a slot for the sear, sear axle hole and mount holes.

other than the sear, sear axle hole and mount holes is the rest of the Rail un-necessary?
as many of you know i will be mounting several AutoMags into Wood Stocks (using ULE or Tac One Bodies) so the grip frame is completely removed and to be honest most of the rail if it can be cut away would make my life easier.

Are the only really necessary parts to the Rail the sear slot, sear axle hole and mount holes?
Can the rest be removed entirely?

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u215/LK-13/automagrails.jpg

[questionful]

The most important thing is the sear axle hole, but if you're going to put it in a wood stock, you should drill holes in the stock for the front frame screw and rear thumbscrew, aka fieldstrip screw. You can cut away everything in front of the front frame screw no problem, unless you're planning on using a twistlock barrel. And you could just cut off everything behind the sear axle, but you would still have to have a rear screw (through your stock) to hold the valve in place.

So what kind of mainbody will you be using?

[LK-13]

most will have the ULE Mainbody, but a couple will have the Tac One Mainbody.

[Coralis]

If your not going to use a fore grip , every thing forward of the front screw could be gotten rid of so long as you are not using a SS body.

[questionful]

You could use a twistlock and doc's adapter, and not need the twistlock assembly.

[wetwrks]

You could use a twistlock and doc's adapter, and not need the twistlock assembly.

I think you need the twistlock assembly to hold doc's twistlock adapter. It locks into the twistlock to convert the twistlock system to a cocker thread.

[LK-13]

either way it is beside the point;
i will be using the ULE Mainbody for the most part because it has a more sleek finished look to it and lends it's self well to the application.

I will be building one or 2 using the Tac One body because i think it will look cool and i also want to see what needs to be done to pull it off.

I'm not going to be reinventing the wheel when building these guns, but i will be altering how that wheel looks and is utilized.

for one version i may need to make a whole new sear because I'll need the lower section where the pin is connected to serve a different purpose.
**hint - something automated will be pushing it to shoot the gun, and a lever glide system will be used to reduce the travel needed.
don't know what a lever glide is?
ask a drummer that plays TAMA Drums. ;)

[LK-13]

you wouldn't happen to know what the current going price of a 20bps hyperframe is would you?

trying to figure out if it would be worth buying a mag and parting the frame out.

typically I'm getting classic Mags for around $100.00 and change depending on condition, but there is a Micromag on the MCB right now that the guy is asking $500.00+ for and I'm trying to figure out where the extra money is in the gun, because it ain't in the valve.
link:
http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/m...light=micromag

[LK-13]

so tell me, how does this looks:

http://www.dwscustoms.com/

the custom gus are getting closer!

[Coralis]

nice front page, loads well in firefox 3.01