Old School "Magger"

[stevewar]

Hello Fellow AOs,

I haven't played PB in about 10 years. I bought my Mag Classic in 1994 aand it has been sitting in the closest just waiting for me to get the itch. Finding this forum has definitely got me excited to play.

Do any of you remember when you could pay a CNC machinist to machine stage 3 porting into the orginal mag valve? I paid like $300 to have that done. Remember the old venturi bolt? HAHA, this is great!

Anyhow, after reading through the forum I'm thinking of updgrading to the new x-valve / L10 bolt setup. I also really like the idea of the intelliframe matched up with the warp feed. So my question would be is this a good setup for playing out in the woods against guys with the latest and greatest markers?

Also, could somebody tell me about how much it would cost me if I chose to have my gun moded into a pneumag and if it would be worth it?

Thank you all so much.

-Steve

[mostpeople]

Imassuming you have a classic automag with twist lock, classic valve single trigger PF mainbody am I right?

here is my reccomendation: Purchase an ULE, or Pariah body, X-valve + ULT setup, and a nice aftermarket gripframe. Chimera, Airwalk, UMF - that sort. All of which are for sale right now in BST.

that would run you however, probably 150+300+175 = 625.

OR

buy this: http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=379&categoryID=81

tac one body: 200
X-valve: 200
Intelliframe: 120

The whole tac one is insainely cheap relative to parting it together... and 500 even for a warp tac one.

So that is my reccomendation. Thus you have 2 guns for cheaper than upgrading your current one.

[wetwrks]

Hey dude, the X valve and level 10 rocks.

I am an old school player like you and have used the classic valve till this year. Did very well with it too. I now have a RT Pro with the level 10 and love it...till my buddy picked up a new Tac One with the X valve and it is awsome. He didn't even really want it as "he isn't really a speed player". He was just going to order the Tac One body and rail to use with his classic. I got to looking at the prices and was going to add the difference and just get the gun and keep the grips and valve and level 10 for myself. He looked at things and decided he just couldn't let it get broken up. After he shot it he is sold. He has a classic mag and I doubt that he will really use it now.

[stevewar]

Wow that was super fast! Thanks.

I took a long around for the upgrades you mentioned. I found a black ULE mainbody for $75, and the AGD Intelliframe with Pneumag conversion for $125. I don't mind trading in my old classic valve and I found that themagsmith.com has the x-valve for trade in at $219. I do have the old twist in barrel system so I guess I'd have to buy a new barel with cocker threads, I'm guessing I can get something decent for $100.

I'm also searching for information on the pneumag upgrade. I'm assuming since that's a entirely new trigger setup, that the ULE trigger kit for the x-valve is no longer necessary. Could someone elaborate?


That sets me back 519. I'm not reallly a big fan of the look of the Tac-1, but thanks for the suggestions. I do like the RT-ULE. I guess I could get one of those fully loaded with the black body, barrel, and trigger pull kit for hte same. Seems like the smart thing to do.

Thanks for the information. I really appreciate it.

[EclipseClassic]

I just started back up recently. I bought my automag used in 95 almost 13 years ago. It is completely stock. The gun doesn't even have a powertube spacer, it has a spring, its WAY old school. They have a "classic" now that has more options than mine has. I am going through the same process you are. But food for thought:

I went last week with my mag to play rec speedball with some guys down at the local field and it didn't matter that my mag was old school. I played like I used to and I didn't miss a beat. Unless you are playing at an amatuer or pro level you don't need these new tech guns. I would play, and then decide in which direction to take with your gun. Sometimes it is better to buy a new gun then to try and molest your pure, simple, and effective automag.

I rather enjoy kick'n *** with my old maggy. Its my way of saying, a better gun doesn't make a better player. I was school'n noobs with angels when brass eagle had the original rights, b4 WDP renig'd on the distribution in the states decided not to let BrassE sell the gun.

[stevewar]

HAHAH true that.

I used to play SC Village in California on both Sat. And Sun. for about 3 years. I definetly learned that in a real outdoor field (not tournament style speedball which I think is lame) solid tactics and a good wingman will win over hightech guns and limitless amounts of paint any day. The problem is that the valve in my old mag has definitely run its course. I have replaced all of the o-rings, oiled up everything, and even put in a brand new venturi valve that I had sitting in a package all of thses years and I still get an audible "clang" every time I pull the trigger. I think what I may do i just buy the xvalve and the intelliframe with the pneumag upgrade (because I found it for less than the inteiiliframe new on AGD) for now, hook up my old viewloader 18v and have at it. If I replaced the body I'm going to have to buy a new barrel and that adds at least 200 in extra cost that dones't gain me that much in performance (although the drop in weight might be nice... I'm not 19 anymore)

[EclipseClassic]

I have a mag Im currently putting together. Mismatch parts, eclipse splash kit, upgraded L7, ANS bolt and a dye double finger trigger frame. Ill put some pics up tonight once I get it all together. Check back and let me know what you think.

[BigTrucker]

That sets me back 519. I'm not reallly a big fan of the look of the Tac-1, but thanks for the suggestions. I do like the RT-ULE. I guess I could get one of those fully loaded with the black body, barrel, and trigger pull kit for hte same. Seems like the smart thing to do.

Thanks for the information. I really appreciate it. hey keep you old classic and just buy a new ULE mag from AGD. have them put in the ULT kitt also. you'll love it. Ijust picked up an X-valve with a ULT kiat and put it in my old calassic twist lock body and i love it. :clap: Like you i just got back into paintballing this summer after a 5 year break. When you get your new mag get a Halo hopper you will need it. Good luck
<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/4426/picture055kb0.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us"/></a>

[EclipseClassic]

Gotta love the camera phone. Just got it working tonight thanks to some AGD o-ring kits and Powertube spacers. I tried installing a aftermarket on/off assembly called the "reactor valve", didn't work worth a damn. Ill mess with it later I guess, bought it years ago.

http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/9466/att5065105yn0.jpg
http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/3300/att5065107ow3.jpg

Here is that valve I couldn't get to work. Any suggestions?
http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/4330/att5065411fd1.jpg
http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/3250/att5065409lr0.jpg
Anyone else used these before?

[pump]

that dont look like a reactor valve....it looks more like a Z valve


what problems are you having with it?
its problems are solved by the same as the stock on offs

extra problems would be a pin that is too short or long
there are some threads about that and fixes for them

[stevewar]

I had no idea there were so many active mag lovers. Go into a PB store and you'd think AGD was dead!

I will take some snapshots of my old mag and valve. For those of you who have been around for a while. you will be amazed by some of the stuff I paid to have done.

I ended up buying the intelliframe with the pneumag modification built into it for $125. All I have to do is get a LPR for like 40 bucks and boom I have the pnuemag trigger. I think once I hook that up to my stock body and rail with an xvalve and my smartparts barrel that I should have a pretty functional gun. The only thing is that I don't know how to hookup the low pressure regulator to the air supply. If anyone can point me in the right direction I would really appreciate it.

Is anyone here from the Seattle area?

[DevilMan]

[QUOTE=EclipseClassic]
http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/9466/att5065105yn0.jpg
http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/3300/att5065107ow3.jpg
[\QUOTE]

I've got a double trigger on my mag that matches your anno.... too funny... it's like all the little parts went their own way...

I'll try and get pics of it tomorrow...

DM

[EclipseClassic]

You have the trigger, or trigger frame?

My double finger trigger is splashed as well.

[EclipseClassic]

that dont look like a reactor valve....it looks more like a Z valve


what problems are you having with it?
its problems are solved by the same as the stock on offs

extra problems would be a pin that is too short or long
there are some threads about that and fixes for them

When gassed up the valve doesn't let the air and recharge the gun. Basically it recharges in slow motion and it will chuff once and then slowly recharge for about a second or two, then I can chuff once more. It has brand new orings, I don't know what else to do. I remember it working correctly when I installed it years ago. However, the stock on/off assem works great. I may be missing "z valve" specific parts and orings, I don't know!

[Spider-TW]

However, the stock on/off assem works great. I may be missing "z valve" specific parts and orings, I don't know!
The pin oring looks pretty yellow, maybe it just got old.

It happens to all of us...

[EclipseClassic]

The pin oring looks pretty yellow, maybe it just got old.

It happens to all of us...

The pin oring is old, can I replace that with a teflon, that the only replacement I have that will fit?

[djellum]

I had no idea there were so many active mag lovers. Go into a PB store and you'd think AGD was dead!

I will take some snapshots of my old mag and valve. For those of you who have been around for a while. you will be amazed by some of the stuff I paid to have done.

I ended up buying the intelliframe with the pneumag modification built into it for $125. All I have to do is get a LPR for like 40 bucks and boom I have the pnuemag trigger. I think once I hook that up to my stock body and rail with an xvalve and my smartparts barrel that I should have a pretty functional gun. The only thing is that I don't know how to hookup the low pressure regulator to the air supply. If anyone can point me in the right direction I would really appreciate it.

Is anyone here from the Seattle area?

Depends on where you want it. The 2 easiest imo are to T-off the nomal valve input and put the lpr there or get an ASA that has 2 ports and mount it below the grip. other than that your limited by imagination and budget. I know some ppl have mounted them inside the grip if theres room or on front like an AC.

I live in Vancouver (WA, no Canada). If we have any big games in my area that are worth the drive I'll let you know.

[pump]

When gassed up the valve doesn't let the air and recharge the gun. Basically it recharges in slow motion and it will chuff once and then slowly recharge for about a second or two, then I can chuff once more. It has brand new orings, I don't know what else to do. I remember it working correctly when I installed it years ago. However, the stock on/off assem works great. I may be missing "z valve" specific parts and orings, I don't know!
well it seems that the pin is too long......or maybe the pin oring that it seals is not the correct one

also how tight is the pin oring in the on off bottom? is there a lot of friction?


what happens when you pull and release the trigger very slowly?

[[NA]WARLORD]

Eclipse Classic, is that grey/black/silver splash ?

If so, would you be interested in selling the sight rail/tourney lock/va adapter ?

[stevewar]

Depends on where you want it. The 2 easiest imo are to T-off the nomal valve input and put the lpr there or get an ASA that has 2 ports and mount it below the grip. other than that your limited by imagination and budget. I know some ppl have mounted them inside the grip if theres room or on front like an AC.

I live in Vancouver (WA, no Canada). If we have any big games in my area that are worth the drive I'll let you know.


Hey thanks for the advice. I looked around and foudn the customer products dual ported ASA and am going to order that.

Looking forward to hearing about decent games comming up.

-Steve

[EclipseClassic]

WARLORD']Eclipse Classic, is that grey/black/silver splash ?

If so, would you be interested in selling the sight rail/tourney lock/va adapter ?

PM sent.

[EclipseClassic]

well it seems that the pin is too long......or maybe the pin oring that it seals is not the correct one

also how tight is the pin oring in the on off bottom? is there a lot of friction?


what happens when you pull and release the trigger very slowly?

There is a little friction between the old o ring and the pin. The pin is the only one I have that fits, and it is the one that came with the kit. The L7 pin isn't even close to being the right size. How loose is the pin supposed to fit. It seems like it sticks slightly when pushed out fully. I bet you the o ring is my problem. Ill have to gas it up and play with it some more, but the gun chuffs when the trigger is pulled back and the trigger does not reset for 1-2 secs after it fires. Letting off slowly doesn't do anything because there is no pressure. I did a quick search for "Z valve" and couldn't find anything.

[pump]

There is a little friction between the old o ring and the pin. The pin is the only one I have that fits, and it is the one that came with the kit. The L7 pin isn't even close to being the right size. How loose is the pin supposed to fit. It seems like it sticks slightly when pushed out fully. I bet you the o ring is my problem. Ill have to gas it up and play with it some more, but the gun chuffs when the trigger is pulled back and the trigger does not reset for 1-2 secs after it fires. Letting off slowly doesn't do anything because there is no pressure. I did a quick search for "Z valve" and couldn't find anything.
well try sliding the pin in and out of the on off bottom without the oring.....if there is still friction(there shouldnt be any) then thats is a problem


i think the main problem is the pin to top oring or the pin length

just more fiddling will tell