Now what FDA Synthetic Oil for the Automag?

[Mechanic79]

Since KC Trouble Free is out the window, what oil to use for AGD now?

Since I've used KC Trouble Free I've NEVER replaced an o-ring, except for the level X bolt o-ring.
4 guns, no troubles. (KC Trouble Free was FDA approved)

I've searched for "paintball" lube and everything is turning to pastes, gels, honeys, waxes, grease, thick glue etc....

I am looking for SYNTHETIC FDA oil / lube. I did a search on google for "Synthetic Food Grade Oil"
http://www.kpg-industrial.com/products/synthetic_food_grade_oil/
http://www.le-inc.com/products.jsp?productID=98

http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m3301/is_9_104/ai_108267596
"Synthetic fluids and greases in machinery have been shown to prolong oil service life, reduce downtime, and better protect metal surfaces from corrosion and wear. They can withstand temperature extremes and can be tailored to specialized applications. Synthetic food grade lubricants have the additional benefit of being nontoxic to humans. Contamination from lubricants has been a problem for the food and beverage processing industry, where a major accident can result in a massive product recall headache, and damage a company's reputation"
(Of course here they are talking about food processing machinery, but would this work in high pressure situations?)

What is your opinion on FDA Synthetic lube oil? Any Chemists out there? Tom?

[Raven001]

Food grade sounds delicious.

Where I work we have air tools and compressors so I scrounged up some Amsoil PC ISO 46 SAE 20 oil. It seems to work fine but I find it a little thin. Wish we had the SAE 40 but beggers can't be choosers. The link just in case you need some info.

http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/pc-series-compressor-oils.php

[Mechanic79]

Food grade sounds delicious.

Where I work we have air tools and compressors so I scrounged up some Amsoil PC ISO 46 SAE 20 oil. It seems to work fine but I find it a little thin. Wish we had the SAE 40 but beggers can't be choosers. The link just in case you need some info.

http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/pc-series-compressor-oils.php


Thanks for the post. That oil is less than $9.00 for a quart. Way cheaper than "paintball" brand oil. A quart should last forever!

SAE 40 you think would be better? I'm in a similar climate as you.

[Raven001]

I am not really sure. I found the SAE 20 was a little more fluid than the old Autolube that I was using and thought that maybe the 40 would be better. As far as the 20 weight goes, it is very slick. That it is also of no cost to me is also a plus. Even if it blows out quicker than the autolube, the quarts should last longer than I really need. Give the 20 a try unless you can find someone with the 40 who will let you test drive.

[georgeyew]

Since KC Trouble Free is out the window, what oil to use for AGD now?


What do you mean KC is "out the window"? Are they no longer in business. I am currently using it and like it a lot. I hope that is not the case.

Also, on the bottom of the Amsoil site there is a disclaimer: "they are also not recommended for use with poly carbonate plastic that is not metal covered, PVC plastic, butyl, ethylene-propylene and SBR rubber".

I thought paintball o-rings are similiar to butyl?

Crap....just read that they are out of business. How sad :cry:

[Spider-TW]

Also, on the bottom of the Amsoil site there is a disclaimer: "they are also not recommended for use with poly carbonate plastic that is not metal covered, PVC plastic, butyl, ethylene-propylene and SBR rubber".

The compatibility statement is here (http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/pci.aspx?zo=1254170) .

Mag orings are PTFE and polyurethane, except for the black one on the Lvl 10 oring carrier which is Buna-N (or you can use Viton, they are pretty much the same for paintball).

KC was probably repackaged industrial lube, we just need to figure out which one it was or at least one that is closest.

[ThePixelGuru]

Why does it need to be food grade? You get hungry at the field, or what? Start packin' some snacks, man... :rofl:

[Spider-TW]

Why does it need to be food grade? You get hungry at the field, or what? Start packin' some snacks, man... :rofl:
Yeah, for Kosher approved, tri-flow is kind of stinky.

I guess FDA approved is good in case a paste-eater gets hold of your marker lube. :p

That and the guys that sit in their car blowing lube through their markers and filling it up with aerosol.

[Mechanic79]

Where did you all read that KC is out of business?

LuisV in the dealer section usually sells it. He says he can't get it any more. I can only find iisports on ebay selling lots of 10. no one else has it.



Yeah, for Kosher approved, tri-flow is kind of stinky.

I guess FDA approved is good in case a paste-eater gets hold of your marker lube. :p

That and the guys that sit in their car blowing lube through their markers and filling it up with aerosol.

Food grade oil I would guess is cleaner and not made from petroleum, which breaks down faster and leaves nasty residue.



Looks like the best choices found so far is the Tri-flow synthetic, Amsoil synthetic compressor lube, and I've found a vacuum pump mineral oil which is used with HVAC refrigeration pumps that's ultra clean and ultra expensive (per gallon).

Any other thoughts?

[Mechanic79]

one more place I've found:

http://www.tribology.com/food_ca.htm

Air Tool & Pneumatic Lubricating Oil
Clear Color/Non-Freezing
ATO-FG is formulated for use in all air operated equipment. This special lubricant absorbs moisture and condensation out of air systems - up to 10% of its own weight, as it lubricates. This important feature helps eliminate rust and corrosion and equipment seizure.

ATO-FG eliminates that possibility of product contamination anywhere air operated equipment serves production, (i.e., packaging machinery).

• Sponges out air system moisture and condensation
• No gum or varnish deposits
• Cleans as it lubricates
• Eliminates equipment and part seizures.
• Anti-wear properties
• ISO 32 SAE 10
• Additional ISO grades available
• ATO-FG PTFE fortified available (Specify ATO-FG/TEF)

[georgeyew]

Where did you all read that KC is out of business?

The website is no longer there :(

[Russ]

Gold Cup/AutoLube has always worked well for me, it's cheap and readily available. What's not to like?

[Mechanic79]

Gold Cup/AutoLube has always worked well for me, it's cheap and readily available. What's not to like?

I've had to replace O-rings using that stuff. Not that it's bad but there are much better alternatives.
...now to find them.

[Madmox]

I use Break-Free and i really like that. Seems to hold up and is slick as all hell.

Madmox

http://www.botachtactical.com/breakfree.html

[Freebird]

im going to school for HVAC and that oil you are talking about basiclly wont break down untill it has been heated over 300*f. It is the oil that flows around in a refrigeration system with the refrigerant, also lubricates the cylinder walls, crankshaft and pistons. Ive seen a special oil made for pneumatic nailguns called "everlast" it comes in a large plastic needle, and they say extends the life of your o-rings by 40%.

[custar]

IIRC, Dan said AKA lube is pre-additive transmission fluid. I also seem to remember you need some sort of dealer's certificate to acquire it. Palmer's lube is also good. I just use plain old synthetic air tool oil from Lowe's or Home Depot.

custar

[Lenny]

IF I use gun oil, it's Hoppes 9 or Gold Cup. But usually I use extra virgin olive oil. Works great.

[Spider-TW]

But usually I use extra virgin olive oil. Works great.
But is it FDA approved? ;)

[Lenny]

But is it FDA approved? ;)
I would assume so...

:tard:

[Spider-TW]

I would assume so...

:tard:
Ok, lube must be FDA, customs, or Department of Agriculture approved.

Seriously though Lenny, what's the longest you have left an application of olive oil sitting and did it show any signs of gumming up?

[Freebird]

lube can be SAE too i believe, not sure though

[Lenny]

Ok, lube must be FDA, customs, or Department of Agriculture approved.

Seriously though Lenny, what's the longest you have left an application of olive oil sitting and did it show any signs of gumming up?
I clean my gun after every day of play, and shoot 4 drops in the ASA before every day of play. No idea how long it'll take to gum up, but it works well in summer and winter.

I got the idea from a thread here in the tech section a while ago (maybe a year or so?)
Do a search for more info. I can't remember everything that was in it.

But yeah, extra virgin olive oil. Cheap, can buy in bulk, and it works.

[phatty123]

Well an automag has probably more in common with pneumatic jack hammer then most paintball markers. I use craftsman airtool oil or any air tool oil. It works great.

-Barry

[rifleman wi]

is kc trouble free off the market now? good thing i stocked up... :D

[JRingold]

Hmmmmm. THe website is down..but here's some contact information

Kermode Concepts
Private Company, Headquarters Location
PO Box 886, Boulder Creek, CA, United States
(831)338-4555, (831)338-4555 fax, http://www.kercon.com

[Mechanic79]

One more I found.

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp?subCategoryID=27

[Mechanic79]

This is the stuff I'm going to try. This sounds the closest (perhaps even better) to KC Trouble Free!

http://www.aaaindustrialsupply.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=312

4 oz for $4.10 plus shipping.

Super Lube Air Tool Oil 12004 Is A USDA Listed H1 Food Grade Lubricant. A Blend Of Rust And Corrosion Inhibitors And A Special Base Fluid Oil Minimizes Tool Wear. 4 oz bottle. NSF® Registered

Super Lube Air Tool Oil 12004 is formulated to meet the special requirements found in industrial and agricultural air line lubricants. A blend of rust and corrosion inhibitors and a special base fluid oil minimizes tool wear and allows operation of air tools at temperatures as low as -40F. 4 oz bottle.

[Raven001]

I came accross this while searching for the VI index for paintball oil. Not recommending it or anything but just funny that someone else has come out with an oil "just for paintball markers".

http://www.slip2000.com/paintball.html

[georgeyew]

This is the stuff I'm going to try. This sounds the closest (perhaps even better) to KC Trouble Free!

http://www.aaaindustrialsupply.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=312

4 oz for $4.10 plus shipping.

If you do try out the lube, please let us know what you think. If it is good, I may switch to it as well.

[TnDeathInc]

Food grade - Fda regulates what times of things that factories can use to oil their equipment and belts that fall in the range of food contact surfaces, ie at sara lee bread where i used to work.

Food grade - means not deadly or will not cause any bad things if accidentally ingested.

However i wouldnt down a bottle either.

[Mechanic79]

Just received the last 16oz bottle of oil today from their ebay auction.

http://www.aaaindustrialsupply.com search for super lube synthetic

Super Lube Air Tool Oil 12004- 305005
Super Lube Air Tool Oil 12004 Is A USDA Listed H1 Food Grade Lubricant. A Blend Of Rust And Corrosion Inhibitors And A Special Base Fluid Oil Minimizes Tool Wear. 4 oz bottle. NSF® Registered.

They answered my questions fast and shipped fast.

My first observation. This stuff is clear, seems a touch heavier/greasier than the blue KC Troublefree. (I do have about 1/8 bottle left).

My opinion and mine alone. Not scientific what-so-ever, I put a couple drops of each oil seperately on my thumb then rubbed it around with my forefinger. I noticed the KC Trouble free didn't feel as greasy/heavy. I continued to rub as I washed them off with plain tap water. Both seemed to wash off the same.


Next I will try them in an Emag and RT PRO and post later.

(FYI: I don't work for any of these companies. I'm not recommending anyone else to try them. I'm simply looking for an alternate solution of KC Trouble Free for myself.)

Thanks for the posts and input everyone!

[georgeyew]

My first observation. This stuff is clear, seems a touch heavier/greasier than the blue KC Troublefree.

The thicker consistency might help it cling to the internal parts better. I hope the test turn out well.

[Mechanic79]

UPDATE: I've since tried it in an Emag valve, Tuna valve, RT PRO valve, X-valve, and Autococker. with no issues.

[georgeyew]

UPDATE: I've since tried it in an Emag valve, Tuna valve, RT PRO valve, X-valve, and Autococker. with no issues.

Great. I am assuming that there's no visible wear on the o-rings and such?

[Mechanic79]

Great. I am assuming that there's no visible wear on the o-rings and such?

I don't know how much wear 400+ dry fires would cause.

KC Trouble Free FDA approved synthetic oil (I've used for years with thousands of cycles. still orig. orings)
Super Lube Air Tool FDA approved synthetic Oil (used 400 dry fires in each with the same orig. orings from above.)

Well, both oils are FDA approved synthetic. I don't think there is too much difference. perhaps viscosity? Compared to synthetic oils that use petroleum, which is an irritant. Lubes like Gold Cup and Autolube, and other air tool oils I've seen at local hardware stores use petroleum.

[Mechanic79]

Just an update,

Still no signs of wear. This stuff seems to be working just like the late KC Trouble Free.

I've went through 3 scuba tanks of air and no issues.

[georgeyew]

Just an update,

Still no signs of wear. This stuff seems to be working just like the late KC Trouble Free.

I've went through 3 scuba tanks of air and no issues.

Thanks for the update. I was just thinking about the thread a few days ago.

[Spider-TW]

I'll have to try it. I used the super lube grease for static orings all the time until I needed some Dow 55 and bought the big tube.

[Castro #66]

The answer is mineral oil. It's actually the base for MANY types of lubes currently or previously available.

Vegetable oil would work, but I wouldn't use it.

If you want an industry-specific solution, I believe PMI marker oil is mineral oil with some kind of silicone additive.

[pierce]

I use synthetic shock oil that is for motercycles. No failures so far. ;)

[jtamm]

What are people using these days? I still see KC for sale out on ebay, is that still the best option?

[Ando]

I been using Tri-flow for the last 5 yrs. 2 of those years my guns were in storage. I pulled them apart and was expecting a nasty dried up oily mess but everything was clean. O'Rings were all in great shape and didn't have to replace a single one. Highly recommend it.

[Mechanic79]

Still using Super Lube Air Tool oil in (my and friends) automags , Borg bolt o-rings, Ego, Autococker.
No issues, never replaced an oring so far. many cases of paint have thrown over the years.

[georgeyew]

I bought some of the Superlube Oil with PTFE and have been using it for the past year. It seems to be working well with the Mags and Tippmanns. I do have some older KC bottles that I may use up first.

[Spider-TW]

I've been playing with both the SL air tool oil and the PTFE blend, since we started this. I've never had a problem on the field with either one, but sometimes it seems like the PTFE oil sets up a tiny bit sticky after a month or so. I'm not sure about that and have even run it through a 2k5 timmy from the ASA without trouble. The PTFE blend just seems thicker after sitting for a while. It may be my imagination.

I use the air tool oil in my SMAC mag with the little SMC noid.

[Jbcraig1883@gmail.com]

I have only used Super Lube Air Tool and it has worked wonders. I quit playing in 2001 and came back a few months ago. Super Lube Air is all that I had ever used. My mag sat around for nearly 8 years. When I took it out to shoot it, everything was still clean and lubed like I had just done it a day ago.

This lube is definitely the best stuff out there.

[georgeyew]

No, it's not your imagination. It is thicker/stickier. I like it because it will stay on the metal surfaces and orings longer than the other oils. I don't think that the extra stickiness will increase the friction by much, especially with the PTFE.

[Spider-TW]

No, it's not your imagination. It is thicker/stickier. I like it because it will stay on the metal surfaces and orings longer than the other oils. I don't think that the extra stickiness will increase the friction by much, especially with the PTFE.
Yeah, I've never caught it sticking in the field. I like the thickness for the level 10 too.

[Newt]

We probably want a heavy weight oil. The mag's oil needs are kind of like yours and mine are for water, except you want it to stay where it is once you've lubed it. But we don't want it in the barrel.

Right? Actually, why is a good quality paste/grease lube not recommend in the mag?

[georgeyew]

Actually, why is a good quality paste/grease lube not recommend in the mag?

Too much of a pain to take off the power tube tip to lube the oring everytime. And using lube, it would be hard to get to all the tiny areas in the valve. The mag is suppose to be a low maintenace "oil it and forget it" type marker.

[Sumthinwicked]

coolata lube from dunkin donuts my friend used to use in all his guns LOL i use goldcup for about 15 years i think

[jtamm]

Sounds like the Super Lube is the way to go. Any reason to with the one over the other?

Super Lube Air Tool Oil 12004 Is A USDA Listed H1 Food Grade Lubricant. A Blend Of Rust And Corrosion Inhibitors And A Special Base Fluid Oil Minimizes Tool Wear. 4 oz bottle.

VS.

Super Lube Oil With PTFE Teflon 51004 Is Non-Toxic And A USDA Listed H1 Food Grade Lubricant. A Premium Synthetic Oil With Suspended PTFE Particles That Bond To Surfaces To Add Lubricity To Moving Parts. Waterproof. 4 oz bottle.

[Spider-TW]

Sounds like the Super Lube is the way to go. Any reason to with the one over the other?

Super Lube Air Tool Oil 12004 Is A USDA Listed H1 Food Grade Lubricant. A Blend Of Rust And Corrosion Inhibitors And A Special Base Fluid Oil Minimizes Tool Wear. 4 oz bottle.

VS.

Super Lube Oil With PTFE Teflon 51004 Is Non-Toxic And A USDA Listed H1 Food Grade Lubricant. A Premium Synthetic Oil With Suspended PTFE Particles That Bond To Surfaces To Add Lubricity To Moving Parts. Waterproof. 4 oz bottle.
The teflon one is usually easier to find since it shows up around the local hardware stores. I had to order the air tool oil. There's not a lot of difference, but I think the teflon variety is a little more sticky and seems to be able to string out a level 10 oring longer before it starts to leak. I like the air tool oil for markers with solenoid valves or pneumatics since it likes to creep more.

I think we can say they both work without any problems.

[georgeyew]

I contacted Superlube about their oils before I purchasing. All of their base oils/greases are the same. The some of the main differences between the products are the viscosity and additives. So essentially, the only difference between the air tool oil and the oil with PTFE is the thickness and the addition of PTFE (maybe a few other minor things).

I grew up in the 80's believing that a PTFE coating is slicker than hell and will make things last longer. So that's why I use the oil with PTFE.

[jtamm]

In a slight bind. The Super Lube I ordered isn't going to show up in time for a game tomorrow. I don't have a whole lot of options for paintball stores. So I may end going to Lowes and getting:

Kobalt
Synthetic Air Compressor Oil

16 oz. bottle
Non-detergent, single viscosity oil
High quality 30 weight
Provides proper mixture to keep your air compressor at its best quality performance


Hopefully this would work?

I also have a Home Depot, Menards, and Ace near me if those stores had other options.

[Mechanic79]

For one day? I wouldn't worry about it! Even a week! But I'm sure someone could lend 4 drops of gun oil at the field!


In a slight bind. The Super Lube I ordered isn't going to show up in time for a game tomorrow. I don't have a whole lot of options for paintball stores. So I may end going to Lowes and getting:

Kobalt
Synthetic Air Compressor Oil

16 oz. bottle
Non-detergent, single viscosity oil
High quality 30 weight
Provides proper mixture to keep your air compressor at its best quality performance


Hopefully this would work?

I also have a Home Depot, Menards, and Ace near me if those stores had other options.

[jtamm]

Just got the gun and there is a leak in the valve. I'm hoping oiling it fixes the problem. Wanted to get the all issues sorted out before hitting the field.

[georgeyew]

I think that ACE carries SuperLube.

[Spider-TW]

I think that ACE carries SuperLube.
Mine does.

[LK-13]

I use Tech 2000 airtool oil fom Wally World.
it was $1.00 for 500ml and not an ounce of trouble with anything,
PPS, AGD, Tippmann, Iwata, Paché, Badger, Snap-On all working great.
I also like the blue nail polish from PPS :cool: :rofl:





of course you could just dip your gun
in the Frier at KFC if "Food Grade Oil"
is really what your after.... :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :cheers: :spit_take

[jtamm]

Got the Super Lube. Working great so far.

Thanks guys. :cheers:

[georgeyew]

Awesome!

[Konigballer]

I got some too, and I linked this thread to a similar one on MCB to further spread the gosple. :)

[Spider-TW]

of course you could just dip your gun
in the Frier at KFC if "Food Grade Oil"
is really what your after.... :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :cheers: :spit_take
We'll have to specify the temperature and time to make it another mag "can your maker do this" test. :p

The best part of super lube is it is useful for lots of other stuff too.

[georgeyew]

I bought way too much of the stuff. So I keep a bottle around the house for general lubing and another bottle to lube the chains on my road and mountain bikes. Yes, there are many many uses for them.

[Mindflux]

I know you spent a lot of time testing other oils and this thread is old but here's your K-C with a new name:

http://www.candcsynthetics.com/index.htm

[Mechanic79]

Thanks for the info Mindflux.

And for an update on
http://www.aaaindustrialsupply.com search for super lube synthetic

Super Lube Air Tool Oil 12004- 305005
Super Lube Air Tool Oil 12004 Is A USDA Listed H1 Food Grade Lubricant. A Blend Of Rust And Corrosion Inhibitors And A Special Base Fluid Oil Minimizes Tool Wear. 4 oz bottle. NSF® Registered.

I've been using it on my 06 Cyborg, 08 ego and Pneumag and haven't replaced one o-ring. many cases of paint through the years, no issues at all.

[Mindflux]

Thanks for the info Mindflux.

And for an update on
http://www.aaaindustrialsupply.com search for super lube synthetic

Super Lube Air Tool Oil 12004- 305005
Super Lube Air Tool Oil 12004 Is A USDA Listed H1 Food Grade Lubricant. A Blend Of Rust And Corrosion Inhibitors And A Special Base Fluid Oil Minimizes Tool Wear. 4 oz bottle. NSF® Registered.

I've been using it on my 06 Cyborg, 08 ego and Pneumag and haven't replaced one o-ring. many cases of paint through the years, no issues at all.


Yeah it's a heck of a bargain, I just like my K-C Trouble Free.

:headbang:


Just out of curiosity. Have you noticed SLATO-12004 to brown your o-rings? That's one thing I love about KC, the orings keep their color and condition. :dance:

[Spider-TW]

I haven't had any discoloration on o-rings with super lube either.

Mechanic79 has a point; I usually use the air tool oil in electros, but use the multipurpose oil in the mechs (it is a little thicker with the teflon). However, I use the multipurpose in my Freestyle 8 electro, since that is the factory recommended lube.

It's nice to have some dependable options again.

[PBCCharlie]

Hey guys,

Just wanted to let you know from the "horse's mouth" that OUTLAST and the old K-C Trouble Free oil IS the same formula. It was originally devloped by scientists in the lubrication business specifically for paintball markers in 1991. The formula was teeked about 8 more times through the years. Even the original formula beat all other lubricants for paintball.

The cheapest...No. The best...Definitely Yes. This oil could have been made cheaper, been adequate to the average player, and have a similar price as others. Some ot the newer paintball oils are transmission fluid concoctions. Most of the older oils are mineral oil based and are not very good. Synthetic oils, unlike other types, can be made to specific applications or for general use. Outlast was made for a specific application. It does work very well on anything that needs oil and is probably of the best with other industries simply because of the expensive ingredients used.

Charlie Segrave
C and C Synthetics

[Mindflux]

Glad to see you here Charlie.

:cheers:

[georgeyew]

Charlie,

I am a big fan of the original KC Trouble Free oil and it sounds like Outlast will also be great. I hope to be ordering some from you soon.

[Alpha {MWB}]

Thanks for the info Mindflux.

And for an update on
http://www.aaaindustrialsupply.com search for super lube synthetic

Super Lube Air Tool Oil 12004- 305005
Super Lube Air Tool Oil 12004 Is A USDA Listed H1 Food Grade Lubricant. A Blend Of Rust And Corrosion Inhibitors And A Special Base Fluid Oil Minimizes Tool Wear. 4 oz bottle. NSF® Registered.

I've been using it on my 06 Cyborg, 08 ego and Pneumag and haven't replaced one o-ring. many cases of paint through the years, no issues at all.

Hey guys,

Just wanted to let you know from the "horse's mouth" that OUTLAST and the old K-C Trouble Free oil IS the same formula. It was originally devloped by scientists in the lubrication business specifically for paintball markers in 1991. The formula was teeked about 8 more times through the years. Even the original formula beat all other lubricants for paintball.

The cheapest...No. The best...Definitely Yes. This oil could have been made cheaper, been adequate to the average player, and have a similar price as others. Some ot the newer paintball oils are transmission fluid concoctions. Most of the older oils are mineral oil based and are not very good. Synthetic oils, unlike other types, can be made to specific applications or for general use. Outlast was made for a specific application. It does work very well on anything that needs oil and is probably of the best with other industries simply because of the expensive ingredients used.

Charlie Segrave
C and C Synthetics
So guys i am looking to get some oil to use on all my mags. I have heard 3 options (this OUTLAST being the last to add) that seem to have the most backing and be the best option.
OUTLAST
AUTOLUBE
SUPER LUBE

At this level is it all just the same, its just preference? What about the Other SUPERLUBE on that site with the added Tefelon, would that be a good option as well, or should i stay away from it?

[finnmanpa]

Always loved KC. Looks like I'll order the re-branded Outlast next.

[Spider-TW]

At this level is it all just the same, its just preference? What about the Other SUPERLUBE on that site with the added Tefelon, would that be a good option as well, or should i stay away from it?

I've never seen anything about autolube being synthetic. Years ago, it would discolor o-rings, but I haven't tried any since about '96 (actually, that must have been gold cup). I used to think gold cup and autolube were the same, but idk. Same question for both though. Even highly purified hydrocarbons tend to get to urethane and/or get sticky after a while. I tend to judge the sticky factor by the film that builds up on the outside of the bottle. :rolleyes:

The teflon superlube (multipurpose), is slightly thicker than the superlube air tool oil. It's great for mech markers. It's a little thick for some solenoid valves though (I might have to increase dwell time a little if it is on the edge). It does seem to stay in the marker better.

Between Outlast and Superlube Air Tool, I doubt you will see much difference in mech mags. If you are trying the milk the last few bps out of an electro, I would try them both.

I really haven't tried enough K-C to see the difference (just borrowed). One thing that I really wouldn't know is what happens if you don't clean your marker and just try to feed it oil to keep it running. Outlast may require less to keep your marker running for some number of shots in either case. Well worn and highly tuned markers are good tests of marker lube.

As part of the preference, you have to learn how to use any lube for a particular marker, how much and how often.

[PBCCharlie]

Mineral oils, no matter how refined, will leave that sludge.

We have been using Outlast in 6 - TM7's (Mini engine) for over a year with no failures. Initially, we removed all other lubricants and then oiled the o-rings with Outlast. Thereafter, drop 8 drops in the ASA before each use. We did experience some initial sluggishness with the first few shots one day when it was below 25 degrees. On one marker, the properties of the oil allowed us to drop the inline pressure (normally 180-200) to 165 psi. The dwell went down as well from 28 to 23. See if one of the others will do that!

The best thing about using Outlast is that you just re-apply. There is no need to wipe the previous Outlast oil application off because there will be no sludge.

[Justus]

I've read over this thread and I think about Tri-Flow lube. It's a fully synthetic oil and has PTFE teflon in it like the SuperLube variant. How does the PTFE affect o-rings? Will that stuff build up? Is it really okay to use this type of oil in the valve through the ASA?

[Ando]

I been using Tri-flow for the last 5 yrs. 2 of those years my guns were in storage. I pulled them apart and was expecting a nasty dried up oily mess but everything was clean. O'Rings were all in great shape and didn't have to replace a single one. Highly recommend it.
...

[georgeyew]

Teflon should not have a negative effect on orings. Lurker lube has Teflon in it also. A lot of people seem to really like it.

[Justus]

:eek:

I must have skimmed right over that post, Ando. Sorry 'bout that! Sounds like it will work out just fine.

[Ando]

No worries. :cheers:

[Justus]

What's everyone using for grease? Dow 33? 55? Slick Honey? Something else?

I've got Militec-1 grease (http://www.militec1.com/) for my 20ga O/U... would that work, or should I avoid using it?

(I'm intending to apply a thin film of grease on the regulator springs - cleaned my X-valve last night and found the grease to be pretty dirty, so I cleaned it all off and now intend to reapply fresh before gassing up)

[georgeyew]

I would not use Militec grease on paintball orings. I used Militec 1 oil on a Tippmann and it made the hammer oring very soft and gummy. I think that there is a solvent in Militec that is not compatible with orings.

I personally use Slick Honey.....or Dow 33 if I need something slightly thicker for the reg.

[Alpha {MWB}]

What's everyone using for grease? Dow 33? 55? Slick Honey? Something else?

I've got Militec-1 grease (http://www.militec1.com/) for my 20ga O/U... would that work, or should I avoid using it?

(I'm intending to apply a thin film of grease on the regulator springs - cleaned my X-valve last night and found the grease to be pretty dirty, so I cleaned it all off and now intend to reapply fresh before gassing up)

I m sure you know this, but that is the ONLY place you use Grease in a mag, in the rear spring pack.

[SkinnyHare]

wasn't it just plain old axle grease for the regulator spring pack??? i could have sworn i saw that in the ancient maintenance vid that came with my first mag... a quick whiff of the spring pack seems to agree, but i want to be 100% sure.

[Ando]

Don't know what it was but it smelled like A double S.

[georgeyew]

I think that AGD suggested axle grease or white lithium grease. The purpose of the grease is just to keep the spring pack from rusting. So essentially, any long lasting grease will work. I find that Slick Honey is very sticky and will last a long time on the springs.

[Justus]

I m sure you know this, but that is the ONLY place you use Grease in a mag, in the rear spring pack.

Yep! That's where I'm putting it.

Also, I've got White Lithium Grease at my local hardware store ($2 for 2oz), but no Slick Honey. I think I'll just use what AGD recommended, then. It shouldn't go anywhere outside the reg spring pack anyway.

Thanks for the replies!

[factoid]

Yep! That's where I'm putting it.

Also, I've got White Lithium Grease at my local hardware store ($2 for 2oz), but no Slick Honey. I think I'll just use what AGD recommended, then. It shouldn't go anywhere outside the reg spring pack anyway.

Thanks for the replies!

I'm not finding the thread now, but when I was trying to get this question answered a few months ago i found an old post by TK saying that white lithium grease is fine for the spring pack. It's what I use on my classic. Lithium grease seems to be a little less of a dirt magnet than axel grease also.