virginia beach emag tech needed`

[mclaggan123]

ive tried every secret i know and have read on here about tuning my emag and i still cant get it right. i have replaced everything i could at least twice and have lots of help from other ao'ers. im looking for anyone in the vieginia beach area that can help me tech this thing. the problem im having is sometimes it will shoot fine and then other times it chuffs and the on/off pin pops out. i ordered a knew emag on/off from agd and it still does it. its wierd how one game it will be fine and then the next it will be a pain in the butt. ive tried every carrier with and with out shims for the lvl 10. ive changed the main spring and all orings at least twice with new ones. if there is anyone close to virginia beach i would appreciate the help. thanks.

[SR_matt]

hmmm i really dont know any one on the peninsula that could really hep that much, try calling first call paintball and see if they can give you some ideas who to talk to. i dont have there number off hand but google them and you will find their site

i wish i could help more since im from the area (in richmond now for school ) but i dont knwo of any one that shoots them
-matt

[Russ]

Is this a stock Emag?


...I can't imagine how the on/off pin could come out. It is retained by the sear.

A good option would be to contact Tunaman, and send it to him for repair,

[mclaggan123]

its a stock emag with xmod 1.8 and a ule body and xvalve. ive sent tuna 3 emails with no reply. i have never seen it where the pin slides out eather. it does it even with a new on/off. firstcall didnt even know what an emag was(i laughed when they asked what it was). thanks guys

[MANN]

ive tried every secret i know and have read on here about tuning my emag and i still cant get it right. i have replaced everything i could at least twice and have lots of help from other ao'ers. im looking for anyone in the vieginia beach area that can help me tech this thing. the problem im having is sometimes it will shoot fine and then other times it chuffs and the on/off pin pops out. i ordered a knew emag on/off from agd and it still does it. its wierd how one game it will be fine and then the next it will be a pain in the butt. ive tried every carrier with and with out shims for the lvl 10. ive changed the main spring and all orings at least twice with new ones. if there is anyone close to virginia beach i would appreciate the help. thanks.

GO to AO SOUTH next weekend, and I or someone else will fix it.

[mclaggan123]

i wish i could but ill be out to sea. :cry:

[SR_matt]

its a stock emag with xmod 1.8 and a ule body and xvalve. ive sent tuna 3 emails with no reply. i have never seen it where the pin slides out eather. it does it even with a new on/off. firstcall didnt even know what an emag was(i laughed when they asked what it was). thanks guys

hmmm i havent worked with them for a while, so i guess a lot of people have turned over, 2 years ago the would have been able to help probably but meh i guess that doesnt help now

-matt

[mclaggan123]

thanks anyway.

[flyingpootang]

Could you explain "the on/off pin pop out"?

[mclaggan123]

it happens maybe 1 out of 4 times using it. i start shooting and it will shoot fine and then all of a sudden it wont fire the next shot. i de-aired it and went to take the valve out but couldnt. so i removed the grip frame and you can see the on/off pin sticking thru the bottom of the body. it did this several times with the emag on/off and the regular on/off with the inteliframe. both on/off's are new and have been rebuilt numerous times and the lvl ten has been tuned and rechecked. im wondering if it has anything to do with the valve body?

[flyingpootang]

Having the on/off sticking out when degassing is normal. To avoid it degas first than pull your trigger with the air removed.

[secretweaponevan]

Yes ^. In a 'mag's natural state when gassed up, the on/off pin will have pushed down on the back of the sear through the body.

It sounds like all you need to do is tune your Level 10 kit. Tom is a genius, and as such, an RTFM is definitely in order. I followed the instructions and had no problems except for reg venting, but then I re-RTFM'd and swapped the long bolt spring for a shorter one and now my mag is working fine.

Here are the instructions. (http://www.automags.org/resource/level10/index.shtml)

It was very easy for me to overlook the reg venting part because my mag would just chuff until I cranked the velocity way up and then it would vent. I RTFM'd and, lo and behold, the answer was right there.

[flyingpootang]

Are you using the quad o-ring on top of the on/off or are you using the 2 o-rings?

If not to start off use the short gold L10 spring, the loosest carrier that doesn't leak, make sure the ball detent isn't screwed in too far, ball detent moves freely, you have a rail bushing in place, don't over tighten the feild strip screw/body screw (1/4 turn pass snug), clean your noid with brasso/mothers chrome polish, make noid plunger rod is not bent, the plunger rod is sure your plunger rod and sear rod are the correct length. Pm me your email address and I'll send you the neidtech emag spec/trouble shooting guide.

[PhoenixWolf]

Lots of things can cause Mags to chuff. Even too tight a paint to barrel match with the Level 10. You really should check everything bolt and barrel-related before assuming there's a problem with the gun itself. Make sure your paint size is consistent.

You don't even NEED the E-Mag on/off normally. I stuck my stock X-Valve and stock ReTro valve in the E-Mag lowers, and both worked flawlessly without replacing the on/off. However, one thing you need to realize is that valve performance is highly related to input pressure. Because of the reduced travel distance of the E-Mag's sear, it can short stroke if the valve does not recharge quickly. With higher input pressures, a mechanical Mag may go off with the slightest trigger pull and it will be impossible to short stroke unless you actually try to. At lower pressures, you may have to do a full trigger pull and release.

What does this ultimately mean? You should look into the tank you are using to power it. Some HPA tanks may only be capable of 750 PSI output (regardless of what it says on the advertisement). Others, like my MacDev, output around 900-950 PSI. If your tank is marginal, you're going to be starving your E-Mag without realizing it. It's the difference between having a gun that's insanely reactive, ready to go off, and one that just barely works. The gun that just barely works is going to starve at electro speeds. I'm actually quite thoroughly convinced there is nothing wrong with your gun, but with the bolt/barrel or power source. It's also possible your battery is outputting low voltage, but generally the board shuts off before the solenoid would.