Air efficiency

[Toll]

Just wondering what people are getting as their standard air efficiencies...I must be doing something wrong because off of 4000 psi I get a hopper and a pod at 68/45.

Set up

Pnuemag /w emag valve/l10




2) How much would removing the level 10 improve my efficiency? Not being able to shoot with less than 2k psi in the tank is a real downer.

[Stayhuge]

Sounds like there is something wrong. You should be able to shoot at least to <1000psi.

[jade_monkey07]

my tac-one can shoot down to about 600ish, it just loses some reactivity at the low end

Sounds like there is something wrong. You should be able to shoot at least to <1000psi.

[Enemy]

i get 1 hopper + 4 pods off a 4000 psi fill dropping to 3000

setup = 05 mill fl viking .... <<<i know im cheating

[dstud2000]

I am getting 1 hopper and 4 pods from my RT ULE....Xvalve with level 10. And that is with my Draxxus 48/4500 peanut. Once I drop below 1000 psi in my tank I lose the RT effect and after I hit about 300 to 400psi it is no longer worth shooting, but down to that point my shots are all still maintaing a decent velocity....250+ fps.

My Mag is not a pneumag though.

[Toll]

Maybe my LX is tuned poorly. It tends to get stuck forward at anything below X (2000 ish) psi and takes a while to reset.

[teufelhunden]

Is 4k after it's cooled down? Or 4k right off a quick fill?

[Toll]

4k off a proper fill, as we generally don't drive the last 500 psi.


Lets say I removed the l10 bolt entirely (blasphemy, I know) how much would that help?..and what all would I have to do to remove it and install a level 7

[BlueDragonX]

With my X-Valved lvl10 E-Mag and a 68/45 with a full 4500psi fill I went through five pods and a hopper and I think I had around 800psi left over. That was over the course of one two hour game at Red Dawn a couple of weeks ago. I probably could have gotten another pod off, but I wasn't carrying any more on me at the time.

[dstud2000]

Maybe my LX is tuned poorly. It tends to get stuck forward at anything below X (2000 ish) psi and takes a while to reset.

My RT Ule was getting bad efficiency till I changed the level 10 around a bit. You may want to read through the level 10 tuning guide again. From what I experienced, if you tune it to make it easier on paint, you will lose efficiency, if you tune it so it is not as easy on paint you should see an increase in efficiency. That is just from my experience with my level 10.

[SR_matt]

before you jump to thinking its the lvl x try to just make sure that the lvl x functions correctly with the squeegee test. if it does work right then try the gun with a different tank, the tank reg you were using might not be recharging correctly, if that doesnt work try cleaning your reg in you valve on your mag. and the third thing to check is the set up inside your lvl 10.

-matt

[Toll]

Additionally the bolt doesn't always return straight away...I thought it was the detent but it only ever happens when there's paint in the breech.

[SR_matt]

it doesnt return right away?

but only when you shoot paint?


if the bolt is not returning correctly it could be the carrier size, carrier oring, or the back field strip screw may be to tight. all just suggestions that may or may not do anything

-matt

[the123]

If you are reverting back to level 7 be ready to break paint. Unless you are shooting some hard-shelled paint, the speed of the level 7 bolt as it passes the breach will nick the ball waiting too hard and if brittle, will crack just enough for the next ball to break down the barrel. To help alleviate the problem try grinding down the tip of the level 7 bolt to mirror how the level 10 bolt looks. Also, a foamie bolt is highly recommended if you do. In my experience you will gain about 10% air efficiency with the change. Good luck.

[punkncat]

There is something wrong. You should be doing well better than that. I really know nothing about pneu. setups, but I would look there. Its almost like you are activating the on/off too long, if thats even possible.
Also if your LX is sticking you probably don't have it tuned right. Its been a minute since I worked out the intricate details of tuning one, ya know its kind of set it and forget it...
I can play at least a few games, I would say 2 hoppers and 2-3 pods on mine with a 68/3k. Its hard to know for sure, because I haven't played in a while and when I did, I generally refilled every game just so I wouldn't run out if the game went long.

[SR_matt]

what brand is the tank reg?

i get probably around 700-800 on my 45/45 with a full fill, given it isnt a pneumag but still that it taking such a small sip of air to cycle it your efficiently should be way down. you have to have a leak some where or some huge waste of air. when the bold doesnt return is it venting air until it returns or not?

hmmmmmm random thought, are you using a HP output tank? an lp tank might be able to run a mag until the recharge (which is partly controlled by the amount of air trying to push past the reg) drops down. i know on my crossfire HP out put tank i can feel a difference when it drops down quicker than i can on my Gurerila air tank so meh, maybe. just a thought

-matt

[hitech]

Shooting a level 10 emag I get more than 1 hopper plus four pods on a 68/3k tank. My level 10 bolt orign was leaking a little in the cold and I only got 1 hopper and 4 pods last time out.

[Toll]

Tank reg = Crossfire
Barrel length : 16in
Bore match : Yes
FPS: 270

[SR_matt]

hp out put or lp?
-matt

[Toll]

Hp output, appr 850 iirc.

[Spider-TW]

I have a classic valved pneu w/Lvl 10. It gets better than the hopper and four pods (800) on a 68/4500. As the bottle gets down below 800, you begin to bump into the recharge rate until you are one shot a second or flat out of air (bloop). It can get out 1000 rounds of good paint.

Your level 10 shouldn't know the difference between 4k and 600 if you aren't trying to rip it. Is your velocity consistent? The mag's reg should take care of that.

Check the usual level 10 stuff (bolt spring, carriers, frame screws) and check that the pneu actuator (MPA-3?) is not so high up that the sear is bumping it. Too high would cause you to use higher lpr pressure (and more lpr air) and would hang your bolt if it touches on the top of the actuator.

Make sure your MSV-2 lever is free to move. If you left it long, the return is weak and it may be returning slowly. Without air - the trigger, rod, and lever should be able to fall back down when you point the marker down and release the trigger.

[Toll]

I thought of the issues with my pnuematics but due to the fact that it only ever happens with paint I have ruled them out. When I can I will post relatively detailed pictures of my set up and maybe it's something that should be glaringly obvious.

Another thing I ran into is that it would take better than a second for my on off to reset. I corrected this by manually unscrewing my barrel and pushing the bolt tip back, which caused the marker to reset itself. This would usually happen after a short string of shots.

[Spider-TW]

Yeah, pneu stuff gets blamed alot for other problems.

Search the forum for athomas and bolt stick, your problem is probably in there.

:cheers:

[Toll]

Mmmkay. I have tried again to set up the level 10. It is giving me a headache. I have gone from thinking level 10 is wonderful to thinking it is the most over engineered idea in existence since my loader can feed faster than I can ever shoot.../sigh

Edit :

Lets say I didn't even care if it didn't chop paint, that I just wanted it to fire...whats the easiest way.


Using the 2 notched disk with no shims and the shortest spring I can shoot to about 800 psi. I stuck my pencil in the breech to test. I now have 2 pencils.

[Spider-TW]

Using the 2 notched disk with no shims and the shortest spring I can shoot to about 800 psi. I stuck my pencil in the breech to test. I now have 2 pencils.
:D
Were you pushing against the bolt face when you pulled the trigger?

For setup, did you try the hanging test? You use the same powertube oring in progressively larger (more marks) carriers until it just suspends the weight of the bolt while you hold the carrier (over a soft surface). Install with no shims. Use the medium spring if it is not heavily used.

Torque your frame screws evenly. If it still sticks consistently, tighten or loosen the rear frame screw a little just to be sure it's not all a little warped.