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View Full Version : Requirements for making a Gas thru grip...



rickroda4
11-23-2007, 04:18 PM
Okay All,

I was just wondering the strongest lightest materials for making a gas thru grip would be. Of course Ti being the top. Looking for specs on Aluminum. what's the minimum thickness? what grade of aluminum? T6065? I'm working with a Minimag, wanna go super light at the grip.

Looking for something on deadlywind.com, the vid on the pnue mag. he has a 2 piece front grip but looking to make a one piece very similar to it. help me out guys...


Thanks Peace

Rick

angrysasquatch
11-23-2007, 04:33 PM
Are you planning on using this as an expansion chamber? If you're not running CO2, you could just have it hollow and have a braided hose ru through the entire body of it, then you don't have to worry about this stuff.

6061 aluminum has the highest tensile strength. You could make it lighter by using a hose loop straight to the valve and a DW carbon foregrip.

rickroda4
11-23-2007, 05:50 PM
Nah...

No expansion chamber. Just a pass through for me, and i thought of using the DW Carbon grip. but from the valve into the grip, where would i make the first connection of the hose? Out the grip on the bottom, I see it coming out.

If your talking about a big loop from the valve to the asa. I'm trying to neat things up a bit.


thanks

Railgun
11-24-2007, 03:18 AM
If you're wanting to neaten things up what about running the line up through the grip frame. This one ended up being a touch crude and yes Iknow the ASA mount is rough but it was all done in one evening so I could use it the next day.

I didn't try it but IF you could use a 45 male to female adapter and then run the 90 macro fitting out of the body it's quite possible that the line could enter under the grip much more vertically since the 45 would make the end of the 90 point right at the top of the grip so you wouldn't need the small 90 bend I had to use. Another option would be to do this with hard line for at least the major part of the line run and then use some sort of coupling to the valve to allow easy disconnecting.

Just don't tell Smart Parts I did this since I understand that they are trying to patent this "invention"..... :D

I need to make a foregrip for this setup but with the need to carry air gone I'm planning on making it from a dark hardwood or plastic.

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/14101174983.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5507472)clicky to make biggy

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/14101175086.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5507473)

custar
11-24-2007, 04:12 PM
Is that a Dye frame? I like the trigger.

custar

WingMan13
11-24-2007, 06:13 PM
yea, I like that trigger too. Where did it come from?

Railgun
11-24-2007, 09:59 PM
It's a race frame I got off Ebay. Not sure who made them. No electronics of course. I just modified it to work on my Classic to get a more vertical style 45 grip. I chose this over an autococker frame because it doesn't have the drop space needed for the hinge pin and timing rod. Milled out all the metal that needed to be removed to allow the stock sear and connecting rod to fit into a countersink depression I made in the back of the trigger. When aired up the trigger sits roughly 1/4 inch further forward at the bottom of the lever.

I really should get back to the drop bit to clean it up and mill it out so it's more custom looking. As I mentioned before it was a "one night wonder" so I could use it the next day. The idea of the drop amount is to put the body up in front of my nose so I can sight down the sides of the body and barrel easier and also to lower the bulk of the air tank so it's not pushing my wrist out at an odd angle. The drop works well on all counts other than looks... :D

And the internal air line is great! Nothing to block me or foul my grip when shifting from rightie to leftie and back again. But I sure miss not having a foregrip. Gotta make one soon.