How do I cut a AM body for pump arm?

[mpsd]

Hey, guys, how is it going?

Does anyone here knows how should I cut an Automag, e-Mag or ULE body for the pump arm? Did anyone tryed doing this with a Warp ULE body? I'm thinking of doing this to make a Q-Loaded pump mag.

If you can, please, send me some pics showing how you've cut yours.

Thanks!

[dyeforever]

i cut my ss body for a pump kit. dont got a pic of it, but heres' what i used as a reference. im waiting for sumone to show me pic of a ule body cut for a pump kit.
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/308/imgp1252zs0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/308/imgp1252zs0.a671062c59.jpg (http://g.imageshack.us/g.php?h=515&i=imgp1252zs0.jpg)

[mpsd]

i cut my ss body for a pump kit. dont got a pic of it, but heres' what i used as a reference. im waiting for sumone to show me pic of a ule body cut for a pump kit.


Yeah,I saw this picture before. My big doubt is about that part that wasn't cut but was "carved", like I show in the pic:

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x299/mpsd18/imgp1252zs0.jpg

Is it absolutelly necessary? And how about the size of the cut? Does it have to be identical or can have some error, since I'll base it on a picture without measures?

Thanks.

[Smoothice]

I haven't done it but I think a little error would be fine. All that channel does is provide a little extra clearence for the pump rod. If when you put it all together and it scrapes take a little more material out.

[mpsd]

That's what I thought. But I would really love to see some pics of a home made pump body...

[tech-chan]

If you want me to I would do it on a mill for you for shipping +10 bucks.

[mpsd]

If you want me to I would do it on a mill for you for shipping +10 bucks.

Thanks. I'm in Brazil. No way...

[Duzzy]

I would imagine something like so...

http://photos-c.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sctm/v11/186/57/90500775/n90500775_30027782_8516.jpg

[mpsd]

I had this too... :rofl:

Found it 5 minutes ago on my hard-drive...
Still, any pics? What about the warp pump body?

[doc_Zox]

here ya go:
http://premium1.uploadit.org/docZox//pumpmag.jpg

[mpsd]

Now we area talking! Thank you! Is this a factory milled body? (looks like). Or did you do it yourself?

[PumpMag]

Those are factory milled bodies. Just make sure the guide slot ramps upward to the bolt area.

[mpsd]

Any pics of a non-factory pump body?

[dyeforever]

here you go. sorry it took a while.
http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/5372/pumpslot002hc0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/5372/pumpslot002hc0.a63c429eda.jpg (http://g.imageshack.us/g.php?h=503&i=pumpslot002hc0.jpg)

[mpsd]

here you go. sorry it took a while.

No problem! Thank you!!! How did you do it? What kind of tools? And how did you take that part show in the pic bellow?

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x299/mpsd18/imgp1252zs0.jpg

[dyeforever]

i used a dremel. the part you highlighted i just cut it to be like a ramp. most of the pump rod sits in the rail. use the measurement that doc gave you and make a ramp for the pump rod.

[luke]

I can't see any reason that this machining would be necessary.

http://www.lukescustoms.com/Page22_Picture_Host/pumpslot002hc0.jpg

I don't see what purpose it serves, I wonder if it is just part of the original manufacturing process. Does anyone know if it is necessary for the pump to operate properly?

[mpsd]

But what about the ramp? Is it necessary too?

[luke]

Perhaps it just a guide channel, but I'm not sure...

[PumpMag]

But what about the ramp? Is it necessary too?

Yes, the ramp is required. It guides the pump rod to push upward against the edge of the bolt.

The pump rod cocks the bolt, so that the bolt engages the sear (prevented by the wave spring).

[PumpMag]

I can't see any reason that this machining would be necessary.

I don't see what purpose it serves, I wonder if it is just part of the original manufacturing process. Does anyone know if it is necessary for the pump to operate properly?

That's part of the original retaining ring. That's the welded lip section of what the bolt spring rests against inside the body.

Probably left intact so that there is no compromise of structural strength.

[mpsd]

Yes, the ramp is required. It guides the pump rod to push upward against the edge of the bolt.

The pump rod cocks the bolt, so that the bolt engages the sear (prevented by the wave spring).

But this should be accomplished by the ramp milled into the rail, shouldn't it? correct me if I'm wrong.

[PumpMag]

But this should be accomplished by the ramp milled into the rail, shouldn't it? correct me if I'm wrong.

You need the ramp in both the rail and the body. The function for both ramps are to make sure the pump rod slants upwards and out of the way of the bolt spring to catch the edge of the bolt.

It's too bad you aren't in California. It's easier to show and see in person.

[PumpMag]

Up close and side by side, the ULE bodies don't have such large a lip, probably also saves further weight.

I have posted a thread in the Tech section with a picture comparison:

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?p=2455499#post2455499


Check there to help with your questions.

PumpMag

[luke]

That's part of the orginal retaining ring. That's the welded lip section of what the bolt spring rests against inside the body.

Probably left intact so that there is no compromise of structural strength.

So the area I circled is not necessary for the conversion, right?

[PumpMag]

Removal will not affect the pump kit from operating. But if the original factory cuts have it on the AM/MM body then IMO I say leave it there. Again, better safe than sorry. It's probably left there for structural integrity or because of the manufacturing process. Perhaps the retaining ring is welded after the factory milling is done.

[mpsd]

Removal will not affect the pump kit from operating. But if the original factory cuts have it on the AM/MM body then IMO I say leave it there. Again, better safe than sorry. It's probably left there for structural integrity or because of the manufacturing process. Perhaps the retaining ring is welded after the factory milling is done.

My question was exactly the oposite. I was questioning if I really need to mill the body and make this whole section (ramp and the other part that Luke indicated) thinner or if I could just open the largest area where the pump rod gets into the body.

[luke]

Removal will not affect the pump kit from operating. But if the original factory cuts have it on the AM/MM body then IMO I say leave it there. Again, better safe than sorry. It's probably left there for structural integrity or because of the manufacturing process. Perhaps the retaining ring is welded after the factory milling is done.

I guess you're not following me.

If you start with a stock body like this blue one. That has not been machined yet...


http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/308/imgp1252zs0.jpg


Is it necessary to take all the extra time to machine the area I circled here?>>

http://www.lukescustoms.com/Page22_Picture_Host/pumpslot002hc0.jpg


The guy took the extra time and effort with a dremel to cut that section. In my mind I don't see why it would be necessary to setup to machine that area. I would think the small channel would be all that is necessary.

I'm not talking about completly removing that section..

I don't have the parts to figure it out on my own. ;)

[doc_Zox]

his dremel prolly got a tad sideways and went exploring uncharted territory

[DevilMan]

Not the threadjack here... but how many of you guys here have a machine shop or end mill that you'd mill a body and rail for me without it costing my soul???

I've hacked it up on one side the way I want it it... :D Good ole grinder!!!! But I'd really like it to look alot nicer....

Anyone have the time to try out something new... It's not the same milling as shown above....

Please PM me...

DM

[dyeforever]

it not necessary to cut the part of the body circled. if you look on the stock body it has that little tab there. when i cut the body for the pump slot i just exposed more of that tab.

[luke]

Thanks.

I'm working on getting set up to offer this service..

[snoopay700]

Thanks.

I'm working on getting set up to offer this service..
If you could work out the wave spring and the pump arm and such for a cheap price i'd definitely turn my classic pump.

[luke]

I was only concidering the machining on the body and rail, sorry..

[snoopay700]

I was only concidering the machining on the body and rail, sorry..
I didn't expect you to do any more than that, but pump kits cost a fortune if you can even find them, so i'm hoping that i can find a steal or someone starts producing them somehow. Basically i was expressing a pipe dream.

[GroovYChickeN 2.o]

I didn't expect you to do any more than that, but pump kits cost a fortune if you can even find them, so i'm hoping that i can find a steal or someone starts producing them somehow. Basically i was expressing a pipe dream.

RogueFactor was thinking about making some. Jay made some but last I herd after the batch he is making now he wont do any more. I also Rainman in MCB is working my converting CCM phantom pump kits to fit automags. May be a wile till this is done however. I've also seen people convert cocker kits to fit.

[snoopay700]

RogueFactor was thinking about making some. Jay made some but last I herd after the batch he is making now he wont do any more. I also Rainman in MCB is working my converting CCM phantom pump kits to fit automags. May be a wile till this is done however. I've also seen people convert cocker kits to fit.
Well the main problem is the wave spring.

[DevilMan]

Well the main problem is the wave spring.


Why is the wave spring a problem??? It can be ordered via Online source for like 75 cents or something like that...

DM

[luke]

Not sure if these are correct but McMaster-Carr sells wave springs

http://www.mcmaster.com/

type in "page 1168" (listing is around mid page)

or "wave"

in the search box...