ULT question...

[pb merc]

Ok..I have a 68 classic Automag with the stock level 7 bolt and the original valve. Can the Ultra Light Trigger be dropped into this setup and work fine? I saw on AGD website that it will not work with classic valves, but then I hear of people who say it works fine with the original valve. Help me get to the bottom of this... Oh, I also used Nitro if that makes a difference. And if it can't be used with the original valve, does that mean you have to shell out $225 bucks for an X-valve? Jeeeeez

[pb merc]

I know this is a very easy question for you mag experts... Someone answer!

[guseppe16]

Search BlackVCG's ULT thread here (http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=96538) , should have your answer.

[Coralis]

Most people that are using ults in classic valves are using electric or pneumatic trigger frames if you use a ult with a plain mech frame you probably will end up with a gun that will chuff alot . If you want to lessen your trigger pull just get a rt on/off assembly instead of a ult.

[pb merc]

Thank you Coralis. What is a rt on/off assembly and where can i find them.. what does it do exactly?

[Coralis]

classic valve on/off assembly (http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=202&categoryID=18)
Rt on/off assembly (http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=399&categoryID=23) reduces the force required to pull the trigger by about 1/2 of that of the classic on/off
ult (http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=358&categoryID=9) reduce the force required to pull the trigger down to a few ounces

hope this helps

[pb merc]

So wait.. would that part work in a classic valve even though it says its for RT ules... Sorry I'm a little confused. How does it work and can it drop right into a classic valve?

[secretweaponevan]

So wait.. would that part work in a classic valve even though it says its for RT ules... Sorry I'm a little confused. How does it work and can it drop right into a classic valve?

Either on/off assembly will technically work in a classic valve.

The R/T on/off will lessen the trigger pull to about half, and the ULE Trigger kit will will lessen the pull even more so.

The R/T on/off will cause a classic valve to have a tendency to make the marker "chuff" more than usual, and the ULE Trigger kit will make the marker "chuff" even more so. This will happen because it makes it too easy to "short stroke" the trigger since the pull weight is so low causing the on/off to not open all the way to allow the dump chamber to fully pressurize.

These on/offs can work in aftermarket electro frames because a solenoid will depress and release fully and not short stroke.

Hope this helps.

[Spider-TW]

Either on/off assembly will technically work in a classic valve.

The R/T on/off will lessen the trigger pull to about half, and the ULE Trigger kit will will lessen the pull even more so.

The R/T on/off will cause a classic valve to have a tendency to make the marker "chuff" more than usual, and the ULE Trigger kit will make the marker "chuff" even more so. This will happen because it makes it too easy to "short stroke" the trigger since the pull weight is so low causing the on/off to not open all the way to allow the dump chamber to fully pressurize.

These on/offs can work in aftermarket electro frames because a solenoid will depress and release fully and not short stroke.

Hope this helps.
The faster you go, the more often you will chuff.

The RT on/off is nice in a classic valve. If you use some sort of trigger over travel stop, it helps with any chuffing problem.

The classic, RT, and ULT are three levels of pressure balance. The classic has none. The reg pressure pushes on the top and any pressure in the valve body (full charge or residual) has no effect. The other side of the on/off pin is at atmospheric pressure. The shoulder on the RT uses the valve body pressure to help balance the force from the reg on the top of the pin. The ULT goes as far as possible to balance the forces.

With less force on the on/off pin, its movement is not as quick. Quicker movement means less chance of you chuffing. To make it fast the best thing is to limit the movement with a stop, so that you don't pull the sear back farther than necessary and you pull it the same length every time.

That is the advantage of the electros. With delay times and shot buffering, they do not trip the sear until the minimum time for recharge has passed. So no matter how your fingers jiggle the trigger, the valve will have time to recover.