Classic mag, not accurate? Double feed!

[Lincoln80]

Hi all, i have some concerns with my classic automag.
first: its not as accurate as my Promaster. it had a much larger spread than i would think it should. The paint more than less just falls down the barrel, as if its a little small when checking paint bore match. How ever it does the same on the PM. could a new barrel help me? its the rotating lock type.
second: double feeding. its seems to do this often. i use a halo B w/victory . could it really be pushing the balls down in there like this? the detent wire seems fine IMO.
Third: i has asked this before, but im going to state this because of the thing happening to it now. the valve rotates some, i line up the words and assemble and a few trigger pulls and the front part starts to rotate but the rotation does stop. then, when i fire the marker i hear a split second hisss from the bolt. and if i slowly pull the trigger i get a larger hisss. i was told its just me opening the on/off.
thanks for looking at this and any help would be great.
Mark.

[robnix]

Hi all, i have some concerns with my classic automag.
first: its not as accurate as my Promaster. it had a much larger spread than i would think it should. The paint more than less just falls down the barrel, as if its a little small when checking paint bore match. How ever it does the same on the PM. could a new barrel help me? its the rotating lock type.
second: double feeding. its seems to do this often. i use a halo B w/victory . could it really be pushing the balls down in there like this? the detent wire seems fine IMO.


Get some plastic nubbins instead of the wire ones, or switch to an agitating instead of a force fed hopper.


Third: i has asked this before, but im going to state this because of the thing happening to it now. the valve rotates some, i line up the words and assemble and a few trigger pulls and the front part starts to rotate but the rotation does stop.


Line up the lines on the bottom of the valve instead of the words.See what happens. Do the numbers on the valve halves match?


then, when i fire the marker i hear a split second hisss from the bolt. and if i slowly pull the trigger i get a larger hisss. i was told its just me opening the on/off.
thanks for looking at this and any help would be great.
Mark.

Pulling slowly does that. Use quick, crisp, and full pulls when firing a classic valve mag.

[rawbutter]

Edit:

I typed up a reply, but after submitting I noticed that Robnix beat me to it... and did a much better job. :hail:

Just follow his advice.

[Lincoln80]

Get some plastic nubbins instead of the wire ones, or switch to an agitating instead of a force fed hopper.



Line up the lines on the bottom of the valve instead of the words.See what happens. Do the numbers on the valve halves match?



Pulling slowly does that. Use quick, crisp, and full pulls when firing a classic valve mag.

thanks for the informative reply!!
ill switch out to the plastic nubbins. The valve #s do match. Ill be sure to make quick pulls with this marker. Any incite to the accuracy of the marker? i feel it should be better. maybe its just a old used barrel and small paint? it is a used gun, but still turns me on. couldnt even put it down the day i got it. taken out full autos in the woods like i was Rambo throwing rocks. :shooting:
now im going back to my pro shop and re-chrono the thing. :D also out of air after teching my guns and a buddys
once again thanks for the help.

[robnix]

thanks for the informative reply!!
ill switch out to the plastic nubbins. The valve #s do match. Ill be sure to make quick pulls with this marker. Any incite to the accuracy of the marker? i feel it should be better. maybe its just a old used barrel and small paint? it is a used gun, but still turns me on. couldnt even put it down the day i got it. taken out full autos in the woods like i was Rambo throwing rocks. :shooting:
now im going back to my pro shop and re-chrono the thing. :D also out of air after teching my guns and a buddys
once again thanks for the help.

That's why we're here. Your accuracy issue is most likely a combination of the double feeding and the stock barrel. Get a new barrel, boomsticks are nice, as are J&J's or All Americans.

Welcome to the mag family! :clap: :clap: :clap:

[ljpiller]

Compare your accuracy with it's consistency. If you are having inconsistent velocities that can contribute to it. If you haven't done it in awhile, you might need to clean off the face of the regulator piston.

I never thought the stock barrel was too bad, as long as it's smooth on the inside it should shoot about as good as everything else. Really small paint can cause a problem though as the stock barrel is a extremely big bore.

[Lincoln80]

I put the plastic detent in, fixed the double feed problem i believe. ( it didn't happen for the time i tested...so). I went to my pro shop, found some automag barrels...SWEET! they have been there for ages. CP 14" bright green, 32degrees 12 i think, and a J&J ceramic 11" if i recall correct and i think ill get it. it shot nicely with it and seemed maybe a notch less loud ( i don't really care but its always nice). but both it and the stocker chronoed consistent.
kinda a side note. im always at the proshop it seems, and i rarly get charged for a fill, i play behind the counter and sell stuff and now im allowed to fill my own tanks :clap: :clap: may sound like small potatoes but its fun to me.
thanks again for all your help and input guys. ill check out the piston face. Im sure i just have horrid ball/paint match, i can see dang near all the way around the ball in the barrel.

MAN MY POSTS ARE LONG!

[Lude55]

I put the plastic detent in, fixed the double feed problem i believe. ( it didn't happen for the time i tested...so). I went to my pro shop, found some automag barrels...SWEET! they have been there for ages. CP 14" bright green, 32degrees 12 i think, and a J&J ceramic 11" if i recall correct and i think ill get it. it shot nicely with it and seemed maybe a notch less loud ( i don't really care but its always nice). but both it and the stocker chronoed consistent.
kinda a side note. im always at the proshop it seems, and i rarly get charged for a fill, i play behind the counter and sell stuff and now im allowed to fill my own tanks :clap: :clap: may sound like small potatoes but its fun to me.
thanks again for all your help and input guys. ill check out the piston face. Im sure i just have horrid ball/paint match, i can see dang near all the way around the ball in the barrel.

MAN MY POSTS ARE LONG!


I would get the J&J ceramic 11" barrel, they are SWEET!!

[automikey]

1)The mags accuracy issue will be solved with a better paint/bore match and with a consistent air supply.


2)Consistency:

The back half of the valve is essentially your regulator, if the rear of the valve rotates w.r.t. the front half you will see horrible shootdown and hissing. I've had the problem with Sydarms. I took the valve apart and wiped the oil off the big o-ring, so there would be more friction between the halves. It has helped a lot.

[Dawg047]

If you could, use Compresed air or Nitrogen instead of CO2. I don't know what you are using but I always had problems when I first started using automags. I used CO2 and was guarenteed a problem everytime. You will be suprised how big of a difference compressed air can be.

[athomas]

Third: i has asked this before, but im going to state this because of the thing happening to it now. the valve rotates some, i line up the words and assemble and a few trigger pulls and the front part starts to rotate but the rotation does stop. then, when i fire the marker i hear a split second hisss from the bolt. and if i slowly pull the trigger i get a larger hisss. i was told its just me opening the on/off.
thanks for looking at this and any help would be great.
Mark.You have the answer to the barrel and nubbins issue solved, so I won't anwer that one.

The valve will rotate a bit. It should be the back half rotating and not the front half. The front half is the one that is fastened through the rail. The back will rotate until the Z pin tightens in the rail's Z groove under the valve back. The indicators and words may not line up properly after the back rotates. Don't worry about it unless there is no z pin to stop the rotation.

The hiss you hear when you slowly pull the trigger, is the bolt moving forward and allowing air to escape. This means your sear may be worn a bit from when the gun was new. As long as you aren't getting uncontrollable shots or getting bursts, then it is fine. You can fix the leak problem by using a shorter powertube spacer. That is what the spacers are used for.

[Lincoln80]

i Do NOT use Co2 on anything i own. compressed air only. where is it that i can get the tube spacers? only guess from AGD right? because its not something thats in my parts bag :D

[phizz]

nubbins... You can rebend the wire ones so that they work a bit better...

spacer tubes if you are lucky they are sometimes in the BST forum but the Agd website is your best option. Good service and always ship out right away even to me in Canada.

[automikey]

I once had a bolt catch on a wire nubbin and bend it into the barrel, scratching the inside.

Since then I have always used the plastic ones.